f**king front brakes!! aaaaaargh!

[powertrippin350]

last thing to do on the bike, bleed front brakes(82 350lc) I've refurbed the brake calipers with new seals etc,fitted goodridge, had a new piston kit fitted to the master cylinder, all tightened up and can I get the barstard to bleed?? can I feck as like! any sneaky little tips I should know about?? hhhheeellllppp!

[LC_BOTT]

Syringe and small length of pipe on the caliper nipple, and bleed upwards (careful not to overflow the reservoir)

Tie lever back to bars and leave overnight.

Lift caliper above master cylinder to get air travelling upwards.

I think the problem is, the air gets trapped in the junction on the bottom yoke (not sure if you're still using this with the goodridge hoses??

[midlifecrisisrd]

It can be difficult if the master cylinder is empty. Last time I got a long legnth of clear pvc tube ( so you can see the fluid coming ) and placed it over one open bleed nipple ( other must be shut ) and suck hard, soon gets the fluid moving then bleed as normal.

Steve

[robin]

Just check to make sure the 2nd little hole in the Master cylinder is not blocked, gently poke around with something non metallic,
Sometimes using a syringe to push the fluid up from the caliper, via the bleed nipple clears the blockage too, but put a towel across your tank just in case it spurts..

[looey]

Fill the reservoir as normal and use a syringe and a piece of pipe onto the bleed nipple (open obvious) to draw the fluid down until u see some come out of the bleed nipple.

After that you can just bleed them as normal.

[chez]

It may be that you have pushed your caliper pistons right back
i would use an air line to blow them against the discs throught the banjo hole .It may be dodgy todo now theres brake fluid there

[powertrippin350]

blocked 2nd hole in master cylinder!!! all good! cheers chaps!

[billy]

Oh FFS, why make it harder then it is?

This is what I do and it has worked perfect so far.

1: Fill the reservoiar.
2: Undo bleed nipple a tad.
3: Press the brake lever in while NOT holding the bleed nipple.
4: Hold a finger on the bleed nipple and slowly let the brake lever out. This will cause a vacuum inside the system, sucking the fluid downwards.

Repeat step 4 until you notice the reservoiar starts to become empty very quickly. Refill if necessary.

It is a good idea to put a 5 mm steel plate (or if you have thinner discs, put the same size plate in) between the pads and have the calipers off the lower leg. This makes it possible to angle the calipers so the air bubbles can find their way through the brake hose. It's not as easy on a 350 as it is on a 125 or a 250 single caliper brake, but it works.

PS: Those last bubbles will come out if you pump the lever with VERY little movement, I mean like... pumping it by moving the brake lever (or in better terms, the piston inside the master cylider) by a millimeter or so at the very most. These master cylinders will let the air out by themselves if you just pump them correctly. It's like using a bread knife, you want to cut it in the pace that the knife can deal with, not just gore your way through the bread in 2-3 sweeps. ;D

But, obviously you want to make sure there is no air trapped inside the caliper/s or in the split on the bottom yoke etc. This is why it is better to have the entire system free from the bike, (although it isn't neccessary IMO as you can come a long way by simply leabing the bike) that way you can angle the calipers etc around and get the bubbles to float up to the m/c.

You'll see the bubbles coming up, keep pumping with a freakin tiny bit of piston movement and you'll eventually see the bubbles stop showing up. You don't need to have the bleed nipple/s undone when getting the last tiny bubbles out, that's only for sucking the fluid down by adding vacuum.