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Post by kennyroberts on Jun 13, 2011 22:27:28 GMT 1
i know there may be some basic questions here, and maybe im just being over cautious, but i need to know a few points as i rebuild my engine for the first time, when it comes to rebuilding it always seems like, no matter how many pics you take, or how much you look at the manuals, it never tells a complete step by step guide to assemble unless there is a good link to the process somewhere else guys ? 1) how diffucult is it to get the nut off the end of the crank, as seen in the photo....i need to change the oil seal, is it left or right handed thread, any tips, i just dont wanna force anything the wrong way... 2) do ANY of the gaskets need any additional gasket seal or any solutions to assist the assembly process, 3) whats the best stuff to seal for the top and bottom sections of the crank case on assembly? any other do 's and dont do's will be appreciated Attachments:
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 13, 2011 23:55:48 GMT 1
i know there may be some basic questions here, and maybe im just being over cautious, but i need to know a few points as i rebuild my engine for the first time, when it comes to rebuilding it always seems like, no matter how many pics you take, or how much you look at the manuals, it never tells a complete step by step guide to assemble unless there is a good link to the process somewhere else guys ? 1) how diffucult is it to get the nut off the end of the crank, as seen in the photo....i need to change the oil seal, is it left or right handed thread, any tips, i just dont wanna force anything the wrong way... 2) do ANY of the gaskets need any additional gasket seal or any solutions to assist the assembly process, 3) whats the best stuff to seal for the top and bottom sections of the crank case on assembly? any other do 's and dont do's will be appreciated The easy way to get the nut off the crank is to jamb a 2p piece between the gears but as you have already split the cases, clamp the fly wheel in a vice & undo the nut. I do mine this way  It has a normal R/H thread & remember the castleations on the new seal face the main bearing. No gasket seal required except maybe on the head gasket. I use Threebond 1104 to join the cases. |
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Post by lcowner on Jun 14, 2011 10:07:14 GMT 1
im wacthing this thread with interest,get ready for some silly questions.........
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Post by kennyroberts on Jun 14, 2011 21:13:29 GMT 1
well im all out of gold kugerans (or however the hell you spell it,)
good comment about the little pins, one seems worn away considerably, and i have the start of a groove in the crank case,
looks like i stripped this just in time,
ill post some pics in a short while
thanks for the advice guys !
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 14, 2011 21:48:08 GMT 1
like.......if you aint got a 2p will a 1p do  No it will bite a 1p in half ;D could always try putting your fingers in there  |
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Post by widget2k4 on Jun 14, 2011 23:34:21 GMT 1
if your talking about the little pin in the right hand bearing,then thats supposed to be smaller than the other 3
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 15, 2011 7:00:28 GMT 1
Yeah that's what I meant Gaz ;D I got ali covers which go over the jaws of the vice. I've never liked the idea of locking the crank by putting a bar through the small end due to the strain it puts on the crank assembely knowing how fragile these are  so if you cant do the old 2p trick I can't think of any other way of removing the nut apart from clamping it in a vice. |
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 15, 2011 17:22:11 GMT 1
so if you cant do the old 2p trick I can't think of any other way of removing the nut apart from clamping it in a vice. how about a hairy arsed tyre fitter with a big air gun Good idea ;D then you wouldn't be the only one looking for new engine casings  |
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 15, 2011 17:24:29 GMT 1
I used 2 small pieces of hardwood like oak and actually clamped the primary gear on the end in the vice. If you put the crank in at an angle it's easy to get to the nut. That's a bloody good idea  will try that the next time I blow me engine up, if I remember |
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Post by kennyroberts on Jun 15, 2011 22:24:38 GMT 1
the small pin on my crank,..........too small? Attachments:
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Post by kennyroberts on Jun 15, 2011 22:30:03 GMT 1
and this is my crank case, ..........all ok here, ? i spotted a small amount of wear into the case, how long should this pin be? thanks guys Attachments:
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Post by widget2k4 on Jun 16, 2011 6:54:34 GMT 1
That pin looks about right,my crank cases all look like that and its never caused me any trouble yet.
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 16, 2011 12:18:46 GMT 1
Yeah mines the same these are only to stop the outer race from spinning, if your worried about this just use some Loctite 641 bearing retainer when it's put back together |
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
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Post by paulo on Jun 17, 2011 22:02:49 GMT 1
Hi m8, i would say too small to, as the bearing shouldn't have rotated pass it's stop in the crank case. I've got two motor stripped at the moment (trying to make one good one), so will have a look tomorrow to compare  . |
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Post by lcowner on Jun 18, 2011 10:36:06 GMT 1
how are them pins held in place are they screwed or pressed in or what?
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on Jun 18, 2011 20:23:28 GMT 1
Hi m8, checked out both my cranks tonight and the said pin is a lot shorter than the pins in the other three bearings. Mine both measure approx 0.4mm sticking out of the bearing using a vernier gauge. But judging by your photo, your's looks rounded off compared to mine - not an expert, but for piece of mine i would be sticking in a new bearing - don't thing there mega bucks. |
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Post by dave1w on Jun 19, 2011 4:17:48 GMT 1
A quick aside, does anyone have a picture to demonstrate the amount of sealant to use on the cases? I know it is a lot less than you would be inclined to use, and have seen a few with teh sealant coming out, which is less than ideal, but to give a clearer idea of the amount to use?
Dave
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Post by lcowner on Jun 19, 2011 10:15:18 GMT 1
if u put normal amount on m8 then when u tighten up crankcase bolts obviosly some will squeeze out .what i do then is get some baby wipes and wipe excess off outside of crankcases. i hate to see sealent left dry on messy like what u mean  |
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Post by nikfubar on Jun 19, 2011 13:32:39 GMT 1
I apply the sealant with a small artists brush as it's quicker to apply & you can get a thin even coat |
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Post by lcowner on Jun 19, 2011 14:30:42 GMT 1
I apply the sealant with a small artists brush as it's quicker to apply & you can get a thin even coat good idea mite try this |
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Post by Tone on Jun 19, 2011 21:27:12 GMT 1
Do you know if the crank has had new bearings before because that bearing with the small pip looks like one from a earlier Aircooled RD. I think they changed them on the LC and powervalves to have a bigger locating dowel.
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Post by kennyroberts on Jun 19, 2011 22:52:24 GMT 1
i dont know the history of the crank etc, but i could do with knowing if this should be replaced
as i still have it stripped at the moment, i was just about to start getting in put back together
i guess its not just a case of replacing the small pin,(i dont know, can this be removed and replaced) or does this come with the new bearing?
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so if you cant do the old 2p trick I can't think of any other way of removing the nut apart from clamping it in a vice.
will try that the next time I blow me engine up, if I remember 
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