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Post by JonW on Oct 20, 2010 8:46:19 GMT 1
Ok, got the LC back to a bare frame and noticed the PO has been 'playing'  Most of the frame is fine, almost all the captive bolts seem to work with only one stripped and one missing so will sort that out before powder, but Ive also found hes removed a few things and wondered if anyone with pics and hopefully a ruler could help as Id like to replace a few of the missing bits before I get it coated... 1, I think the frame should have some kind of wiring harness retainer round the headstock, I think it looks like a bit of wire coathanger (stronger than that obviously) and i think it joins the two points ive arrowed as i can see the nobbles where he cut something off there... Can you tell me: a, Is this where this wire retainer goes? b, is it captive (ie welded both ends with the harness threded thru) or open at one end? c, how much does it stick out from the frame d, how thick is the thing?  2, Is this lock stop standard? Can you tell me: a, how wide should it be?  3, Ive got a cut bracket for something (indicator cancelling unit?) inside the frame on the back of the headstock... can you tell me: a, what does this bracket hold? I may not need it perhaps? b, what does it look like... pics would be great  c, how big are the bits im missing as i'll need to make them.  blue arrow here  4, Ive got a Polo! well im sure this hole is a new addition... Can you tell me: a, is this normal yamaha or an addition (not sure how you can add a hole... lol) red arrow of course... 5, Talk about a terrible chop job... either remove the centre stand or dont, why leave it half done... lol... must have had some really wide pipes on here back in the day! Can you tell me... a, Its just the two tabs I need for the outer edges isnt it? b, can you tell me how far the hole is from the frame c, how far is the edge from the frame? d, how big is the hole? e, whats it look like? pics would be great ta! apologies for the terrible photos of this one...   6, And of course... he cut the rear indicators off... why would we think otherwise? Can you tell me... a, are these hollow for the wires? b, how long should they be? perhaps a measurement from end to end of the pair would be ok and i can work it out  So... Thanks for bearing with me... I really appreciate your help guys! together we'll get this one back on the road |
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Post by scott on Oct 20, 2010 21:11:41 GMT 1
wire on the headstock is 3mm dia.sticks out from the frame 27mm and connects to the 2 parts u have shown in ur top pic.  the bracket behind the headstock is for the coil cover shown in the 1st pic down,i've drwn a diagram if thats easier,don't really need it if ur not fitting the coil cover.     the turning lock stop looks ok m8,mine measures 24mm at the front longest points.  the centre stand brackets should just mirror what u have allready with the metal pin to take the stand C clip for spring.    indi stems at the back,i don't know how long these should be but someone else has asked this and there was a measurement on here somewhere. hole in the side of the headstock should not be there m8. hope this has helped ya m8. |
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Post by JonW on Oct 20, 2010 22:13:53 GMT 1
Scott, you mate are a bloomin star! Thanks so much for all the work to get me this info, I seriously appreciate it. Have a Karma from me I'll get onto making / welding these today if i get time and will have a search for the indicators on the site, tho ive always struggled with PBs search function for some reason, but will persevere Once again. Serioulsy, thank you mate. |
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Post by billbott on Oct 20, 2010 22:24:53 GMT 1
Scott. You need to get out more mate!!
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Post by scott on Oct 20, 2010 22:26:01 GMT 1
no problem jonw,thats what the sites for m8.
i might have a rear indi mount somewhere i can measure and take a pic for ya but need to have a hunt round for it 1st so might be afew days,still can't tell u the length tho but i'm sure there will be someone on here with an uncut rear sub frame to measure the length for ya.
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Post by soad1110 on Oct 20, 2010 23:12:12 GMT 1
First class as always scotty, well done mate.
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Post by JonW on Oct 20, 2010 23:39:04 GMT 1
No worries thanks for all youve done mate, i really appreciate it. Best i fire up the welder and get 'crackling', groan...  |
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Post by scott on Oct 21, 2010 17:35:00 GMT 1
just try and do my bit lads,i lack in techno info so hopefully make it up other ways ;D
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Post by bare on Oct 21, 2010 18:57:38 GMT 1
Geez .. I thought Aus was hot 'n dry.
She's not looking too good. Seems to have been stored below the high tide line
Best of Luck though.
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Post by elsie1411 on Oct 21, 2010 20:59:42 GMT 1
hope this helps mate    to be honest when i measured the bar it isn't welded central it's about 4mm over to the right |
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Post by JonW on Oct 21, 2010 23:16:27 GMT 1
Bare, yep hot but also quite humid at times... and if you live by the coast there is salt in the air :/
Scott, Cheers for that and LOL at the fact its out. Im thinking that a few mm is pretty unnoticable on something this long, as would adding or removing a cm etc. but good to have the stats, very much appreciated m8.
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Post by JonW on Oct 22, 2010 5:15:13 GMT 1
Just searching for steel and wire to make up these bits. found some nice solid wire thats 3.7mm so will use that, steel plates for the centre stand may come from a different (not LC) old frame thats being cut up and have found the plate to make the coil cover bracket, so getting there... no tube steel for the indicator stems tho... I was looking at the pics and realised the indicator stems are not just round bar, they have some other bits on them... Im guessing one is a 'flat' or drilled area to fit the indicator upright but what are the two tabs at 3 and 27cm in this pic? |
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Post by scott on Oct 22, 2010 18:57:23 GMT 1
jonw,elsie1411 has put the pic's up of the rear sub frame m8 not me.
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Post by elsie1411 on Oct 22, 2010 20:57:32 GMT 1
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Post by scott on Oct 22, 2010 21:23:45 GMT 1
see jon another bloody nice bloke tekkin pic's for us.if you have the front indi stems they should be same spec's.
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Post by JonW on Oct 23, 2010 2:24:32 GMT 1
Oopps sorry guys, I was speed reading I think, much appreciated elsie1411! They dont look too complex to fab up, but im wondering if i should just look for a better uncut rear end as i dont want to mess it up as once its coated it would be hassle etc. hmm... Scott, yep i love the forums. Im on a few forums for different thing and whilst im able to provide help on some, im a newbie on others, i reckon the whole forum vibe is superb and have learnt a lot from people over the years and also managed to pass on that and other info after, all good in my book. Once again, thanks all for helping with my build! this bike will hopefully be a testament to the forum when its done |
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Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2010 8:49:17 GMT 1
For those watching... I started welding today... In the end I found a nice piece pf 3.05mm dia wire and some good sized plate for the cover bracket (and a bunch of nuts) so am slowly working thru the damage, also sorting out the badly messed up chain guard fixings on the swingarm, one had the remains of a broken off tap and also a broken off drill bit as well, typical ham fisted DPO, sigh. Will do some photos of how far ive got... only the centre stand ears to do now, but looking for some steel the right thickness before i start that task... |
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Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2010 23:58:57 GMT 1
Ok a picture update... using the info from above... combined, ish... LOL 1, Wiring harness retainer round the headstock... As said above it should be 3mm and looking at the pics what Yamaha did was bend the wire so it has some legs pointing down and then bend out some feet and weld the feet to the frame, hence the mass of weld round the area, it's kind of overkill for something that carries no weight but i guess they were looking at longevity, well... or until some dumb owner decided to grind it off LOL. I ground some of the old feet welds i still had on my frame down and then welded in the new retainer with no feet, no real reason for that its just how id cut the part, its nice and solid (i could pick up the frame with that as a handle when it was done! ) and will look fine after powder, kind of like all my welding really... id never say 'pretty', more like 'functional' LOL Was: Scotts example pic: Mine Now:  2, Lock stop. Mine measured a smidgen under 24mm so with powder it should be fine, phew. There was already some damage to the head stock tube in this area from what seems like heat from previous welding as the lower edge is not totally round but it all looks like it was factory welded so thats interesting. The bearings are unaffected and the yokes and tripples fit fine, but i will need to play with sealing during the build to keep the grease clean in this area going forward. 3, Cut off bracket for coil cover inside the frame on the back of the headstock. Spent a while on this as its in a funny location for welding parts into and I also wanted to get it the same thickness as the original and didnt have any stock steel the right size, tho i did have a couple of exterior door pin cover plates the right size... like i said, i did have... LOL This one took a while as the two plates needed to be made into one bracket and also add the captive nuts etc, in the end it came out ok i think. Was: blue arrow here Scotts example pic: Mine Now:   Ok, yes, perhaps im sure it could be prettier, but it's solid and will be hidden when the cover is in place anyway. 4, The stupid PO's drilled holes in upper headstock strengthening plate... I still sigh when I think about these... what a tosser I reckon what happened is that he ruined the threads on the coil cover bracket and then cut them off and instead drilled these holes and put something thru to hold the coil cover there instead... lots of time to play detective with the PO's thinking when you are fab'ing and welding stuff... Im like a CSI... if i find a thumb print, im tracking him down and asking him 'wtf?!' etc. Welded up and ground back. simple to say and not always simple to do... LOL was: red arrow of course... now: So... that leaves me with the two least fun jobs of the center stand and indicators to do, right now i dont have the right steel for those, but at least ive started getting the work done, welding always takes longer than I think Whilst i had the welder out I also sorted out the captive nut on the radiator mounting which was totally drilled out and the top dished (dont ask me why), the wear on the swingarm tube (it was almost worn right through! Eeek!) from some too long bolt on the footrest/exhauast etc that rubbed (how could you not know it was doing that?!) and also drilled out the remains of a broken off tap along with a broken off drill bit (he must have given up after he broke the drill bit trying to get the broken off tap out LOL) from the rearmost chain guard fixing, I dug that lot out (broke a few drill bits of course), welded it up and drilled and tapped it. Amusingly the PO just cut off the lower tab from the chain guard instead of sorting out some other form of clamping... its a bit, well... 'flappy' LOL More as i do it... |
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Post by gazilla on Oct 27, 2010 22:26:40 GMT 1
Jon could you have found a harder frame to referb.Keep up the good work its worth it in the end.
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Post by JonW on Oct 28, 2010 0:41:26 GMT 1
LOL thanks mate. I dunno, Im not actually daunted by this one, which is probably more scary than anything else... LOL Im looking forward to getting this stuff done and the frame into powder as then I can start the fun bit of sticking on parts to the skellington |
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