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Post by JonW on Oct 30, 2011 22:33:24 GMT 1
Yeah I see what you mean Jon I spent a grand on my engine with new parts, tuning etc could have sold the bits & put the money towards going your route & I expect there wouldn't have been a lot in it Yeah thats the 'problem' I had with my 350 build... by the time youve done new crank, new pistons, bored the cyls, messed with the head and fitted new PVs and a bunch of other stuff youve come close to the Athena kit, and if youve bought 350 cyls then youre over that budget anyway, but of course the standard engine with run with standard carbs, the Athena will too, but you wouldnt, youd spend on carbs and pipes etc. So i said on the next one i would do the athena, and so i did... LOL It's ready for first start up, not taking anything off now unless I have to, so the water pump will have to wait ;D haha, yeah i have the same feeling about my 350 motor ive built, its sat there and ready to run, but i didnt look up its water spout.... hmm...
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Post by JonW on Nov 1, 2011 0:37:24 GMT 1
Moving forwards.... I gently placed the motor in the frame, partly to get it off my bench, but also as I need to work out where the last few pieces of the 'pipe puzzle' fit so i can get them off to the welders and also the coaters whilst i concentrate on other things, gotta love parallel working! I was always a bit concerned that the pipes would need a bit more custom fettling than just dropping on and bolting up as I have an LC not a YPVS, and it has Raask rearsets and the RGV swinger.... A few variables in there then! So, I ordered these pipes without the stingers or the rear hangers fitted. This also helped as I was bringing these pipes back from the USA in my baggage earlier in the year and to get them in the bag and still conform to the length of bag allowed on the flights im sure they would have been damaged in transit if they were the full length. As it was they were short enough to be safely covered in bubble wrap and my dirty clothes (nice!) from the trip! (for those who dont know the Aussie carriers, when they arent on strike, are the most hard work when it comes to baggage size and weight, with stiff fines for non compliance... it wast always thus, bring back the old days i say!) Ok... These pipes are mild steel (tho Wicked now does these in stainless as well I think) and come with Toomey alloy cans, but I may decide not to run them on this bike and might run the carbon cans originally for my YPVS, those cans came with Kenny's TSA pipes, but their look just suits this bike better and the YPVS will look great with the alloy Toomeys. Too easy id like to think, but the mounting flanges are 2 and 3 hols, so need to be redrilled if i do that... Hmmm... we'll see... Anyway, pipes are on... and on the right they look and seem to fit well: On the left its a different story im very sad to report... they foul the side stand and the center stand... Bugger! (but yeah, it was expected...) The side stand is an easy fix, just cut the end off the side stand stop switch actuator. The center stand... Sigh, yep... It seems kind of obvious to me that the center stand and its mounts may have to exit stage left... I know I know... I quite like a center stand on these bikes, but... Well, the fat pipes just take up all that room... I'll have to use the paddock stand to adjust the chain I guess LOL Ive not chosen a stator yet, see my other thread in the Advice forum, Im a bit stuck working out how to retro fit a YPVS stator to the LC loom and CDI as naturally no one has ever tried to do that as usually you need the YPVS CDI to run the PVs.... I need to work out what will fit with my LC loom and also my CDI/Zeel... 'Ello Jon, Got a new Zeel...?' LOL.... A local guy was selling an unused Zeeltronic VCDI-04 with controller just down the road and I figured that this would be perfect for the LC, and would mean that the PCD10V I was about to fit would then remain unfitted and could go on another PV project, always seemed sad to not be making use of the PVs functions of that unit, so all good. Fitted up the flywheel cover, and found it might make sense to use a cut down cover I have in my spares as the LC frame is a little bit of a tight fit with this engine, tho that could be the swingarm perhaps? more fettling to work that out... thats the sort of small job that takes times when doing specials, and the threads dont really show the rework special builds keep doing overn over to shave parts to get them to fit. Looked at my sprocket and the engine side is an offset item from NK, and it seems way out if I used it as it stood... Hmm... I reversed it on the engine for now, We'll see what its like when its done up. Anyone know more info on this sprocket, Talon TG625 17T(520)... Obviously the last bit I know what that is... LOL Just for Chris, I test fitted my rearset's gear lever... Works fine it seems... (the spring is in place you will be pleased to know Chris ) Fitted a banshee Kicker I bought 18mths back on ebay... Its very similar to Chris' unit, but without the holes. FWIW I tested this unit on Aarons YPVS RZ350 and it hit his Tarozi's bang on, but on the Raasks it seems like it might just knock maybe 1mm of the rear brake slightly but otherwise is fine... Its on, we'll see. So with the pipes held on with cable ties pending my further work to make them fit, its starting to look a bit like a motorbike....! Ok, this is an unnatural vision of progress... the pipes are no even close to being on, the electrics are not close to being finished... hmm...
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Post by lb on Nov 1, 2011 5:39:03 GMT 1
Hey Jon,man thats lookn pretty damn sweet! Those 17's sorta really look the part. Well by the time I get to your place,it should be running......right? Want some cash for that other zeel? Also,have you sorted anyone to do your paint work? Looking very nice!
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Post by billy on Nov 1, 2011 6:35:05 GMT 1
Sweet! But arn't those brake discs the wrong way around?
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Post by JonW on Nov 1, 2011 8:33:45 GMT 1
Hey Jon,man thats lookn pretty damn sweet! Those 17's sorta really look the part. Well by the time I get to your place,it should be running......right? Want some cash for that other zeel? Also,have you sorted anyone to do your paint work? Looking very nice! Thanks mate! Nah its further away from running than it looks... the pipes still need welding to finish them and then i was going to ceramic them using Aarons guys, so a few weeks at least for that. Nope, sorry the 'spare' Zeel isnt actually spare, its for my '83 project... which i should start a thread for one day... so far that 'bike' has... frame, 350 PV engine, Zeel, RGV front forks, Honda MX swingarm(!), front healdight and cowl and some other bits n bobs... no wheels tho LOL Paintwork... Well I already have full KR bodywork for it, these white tank/panels are loaners to get things setup as i dont want to scratch my paint. I sold them ages back to a mate in Sydney and he said 'use them for mocking up your bike and then bring them over to me', nice of him. In fact theyre not that great condition, the tank has a viscous dent on the other side, I only ever show its good side if you notice lol. EDITED to add... Of course i didnt think, I still have your tank and panels here, i could use those LOL EDITED to add...... Check out Kens paintwork, here: rdlccrazy.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hybridchat&action=display&thread=11008 - worth shipping up there perhaps as 650 sounds good? Else maybe come with me when i go speak to the painters on the Central Coast when i get the RZ YPVS panels done? I have a quote for 'about a grand if you do my own tank seal and get your own decals', far better than the 2.5k in Sydney! Cheers m8.
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Post by JonW on Nov 1, 2011 8:34:42 GMT 1
Sweet! But arn't those brake discs the wrong way around? LOL they could well be, I know nothing about RGVs....
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Post by JonW on Nov 1, 2011 9:44:04 GMT 1
I was thinking about something whilst having dinner this evening... Isnt it amazing how one of the reasons we manage to get these bikes built at all is cos our mates help us out? Im mindful that ive been very lucky with this build, not only have my new friends on the forums helped with advice and support, but also mates new and old have helped me out with parts to make this bike happen. There are parts in this bike from Switzerland, UK, Canada, USA, and of course Australia. In fact some of the most mundane things ive found to buy or have been loaned locally, and mates have often dropped by and said 'oh, i think i have one of those and will never use it...'. Of course that help goes two ways, either in parts/advice/muscle or cases of beer. Perfect... if you ask me. In fact we have quite a good little community of 2strokers in Sydney and its surroundings (including the central coast and the Hunter Valley) and Im pleased to be part of it. Thanks Everyone!
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Post by JonW on Nov 2, 2011 12:22:02 GMT 1
I trudge ever forwards... mostly on small tasks today... I took the center stand off 2 days ago to mess with the pipes and then today wished i hadnt as i need to whip off the front wheel today for its new bearings and to swap the disks round as ive found after the hint here and a bit of a google that they were indeed incorrect. oops. Also as the lower half of the front end will remain as it is for the forseeable future i added the pads and cover plate for the calipers and then a bit of Tyga bling, a carbon fiber front muddy. Its not fully fitted as i want to rubber mount it to avoid any cracking but its pretty close to being done. I could have bled the brakes but i dont have the hose from the master cyl to the reservoir.... i need to order one, I hate moving a bike without front brakes connected, I just dont feel in control... I have also fitted the mirrors i wanted on this bike, off a modern KTM Duke, no pics but most people will know what they are like, nothing too special but i liked them. Did up a bunch of bolts and nuts ive been waiting to do up when the bike was on its wheels, so the rear end is now all solidly mounted and nothing moves and the suspension seems to work without squeaking LOL With the center stand off I had another go with the pipes and i think I might be fine to leave the center stand mounts in place which is nice. just need to work out where the stingers need to fit and im ready to tack them up for the welder. It would be nice to have them tacked up this week, all being well.... Been talking to Borut about the ignition, and I may well have a plan going forward now. I will update that thread and report back here when ive wired it all up. Wow.... standing back from it I now feel that it's starting to feel closer as it really does look much like a motorbike... But yes, there is still a long way to go really, as there are still a bunch of unknowns as i havent fitted the chain yet, so still may need a different offset sprocket and of course no carbs, no headlight and a bunch of other stuff needs to be done... but yes, it looks much like a bike now... not bad for a load of boxes of bits from all over the world!
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jonniebick
Drag-strip hero
Nice Bike...How fast duz it goo mister????
Posts: 246
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Post by jonniebick on Nov 3, 2011 23:50:08 GMT 1
I had an offset sprocket from NK, the very same one you have.. Its now in the parts bin...along with the second one I got from a bike shop for less than half the price.. I bought two for seperate bikes... The offset pushed the chain over so it ran against the bike frame.. I now run a standard style front Sprocket (flat) without any issues at all.. Im running 16-41 as 17-39 seemed to over gear the bike. Im using 17" RGV wheels but my engine is pretty standard at the mo.. So a 421 may well be ok with 17-39.
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jonniebick
Drag-strip hero
Nice Bike...How fast duz it goo mister????
Posts: 246
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Post by jonniebick on Nov 3, 2011 23:58:14 GMT 1
What rearsets you using? I got mine from NK,, Had the original hangers modded so I still got the rear pegs.. They work great, I gotta get another set for bike No2.. Attachments:
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Post by JonW on Nov 4, 2011 0:21:21 GMT 1
I had an offset sprocket from NK, the very same one you have.. Its now in the parts bin...along with the second one I got from a bike shop for less than half the price.. I bought two for seperate bikes... The offset pushed the chain over so it ran against the bike frame.. I now run a standard style front Sprocket (flat) without any issues at all.. Im running 16-41 as 17-39 seemed to over gear the bike. Im using 17" RGV wheels but my engine is pretty standard at the mo.. So a 421 may well be ok with 17-39. Hmm, i was afraid of that, seems Nigel is supplying something that doesnt work for any of us, youre not the first to tell me its not a goer and it hits the frame. Hmm... I will have to look out a standard front sprocket and see how everything lines up when the rear sprocket arrives. FWIW, Another case of Rip Off Australia with sprockets... cheapest place for Renthal sprockets in Aus said, Au$89.95... eeek... bought online from the UK with postage for Au$46. hmm... no brianer... and I didnt even have to drive to the shop again to pick it up. I told the importer about the pricing and he said 'you lot are putting me out of a job', yeah, like we should fund him when we arent sure where the next paycheck is coming from. Sadly my uk supplier didnt have the 39T anymore (Renthal are said to have stopped making them), only 38 and 40... and in discussion with Chris we sort of agreed that 39 was the goer but that 38 might be good in traffic. I also remembered that the YPVS lists its standard setup as 17/39, so really with more power and no PVs i thought 38 would be the go. If i dont like it i can go to 40 of course. I was a bit worried that if the 39s are NLA, maybe the 38s will be the same soon. So i guess we will see when its on the road, Im hoping it will be fine, but for the cost of another sprocket at less than 30quid im not worried.
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jonniebick
Drag-strip hero
Nice Bike...How fast duz it goo mister????
Posts: 246
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Post by jonniebick on Nov 4, 2011 0:25:29 GMT 1
Another option for sprockets is Talon, I bought a 39 tooth rear made by them recently.. Hard anodized ally.. Nice bright gold colour.. found one on ebay, Item number: 200657426478
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Post by JonW on Nov 4, 2011 0:29:00 GMT 1
What rearsets you using? I got mine from NK,, Had the original hangers modded so I still got the rear pegs.. They work great, I gotta get another set for bike No2.. I probably shouldnt say as most people dont like them as they look like they were made by a 5yr old, LOL! Im using old 80s Raasks. Not as trick as the modern stuff for sure and they do look like they were sand cast. To be honest whilst i like them i would really like to mod them a bit i i am honest as im not yet sure if i will use the exhaust hangers or even the passenger pegs, so with that in mind maybe i should look for some others, hmm... Raasks are not expensive at less than 100quid for a used set and they do work ok and i like the look of the pedals, they are pure 'period' mod etc. Have a gander back thru the pics in this build, there are some pics of them fitted but here they are: Edited to add: Ive just seen that Sean has done a natty period type mod with his rearsets, check this out: rdlccrazy.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hybridchat&action=display&thread=6937&page=4
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Post by JonW on Nov 4, 2011 0:34:02 GMT 1
Another option for sprockets is Talon, I bought a 39 tooth rear made by them recently.. Hard anodized ally.. Nice bright gold colour.. I hadnt thought of Talon, good call. Tho I am a bit disappointed with them to be honest as a business. I used to buy stuff from them via a friend of the guys who run Talon and sort of knew them a bit (I lived locally) so when i needed something a while back for my KTM i emailed Rob right away, he was chatty but suggested that i should speak to the local Talon reps in Aus... hmm... ok, i get why but... ok. so i did and got no answer. After a month i emailed again and they still didnt answer. pointless. SO they're off my Christmas card list, buying parts for bikes is hard enough without begging LOL I could see if i can find them online of course Sadly i couldnt do that with the KTM parts as they bits i needed were NLA in the catalogue and I was really asking a favour for the guys back at base to dig out the old drawings (LOL these days the CNC files) and make me one up... having built bikes (motards) back in the day and finding people dont make the very part you need anymore sucks. I made my own in the end... eeek.
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Post by JonW on Nov 4, 2011 8:12:04 GMT 1
Im still doing little jobs.... yeah im avoiding welding up pipes... LOL So i sorted the rear brake line... For a long time ive had the OEM RGV line on the bike, but its a funny shape as it goes up at the front and then is flat at the back, all over the top of the swinger too... and my one was way too long... making me think its not actually an RGV line at all, tho the brackets for the swingarm did seem there but I guess they could have been threaded onto the hose to make it look like it... hmm... the perils of buying bits and not a complete bike... So today I looked in my spares for a better length brake line....but first some edumacation about living in Australia. This is a country that only allows fully crimped braided hoses and then also seems to get funny if they didnt originate from here and are not stamped with the correct codes/numbers etc. In fact some states will make you swap braided hoses on cars if you re-register them from another state, that has happened to me before and no matter how much yo tell them that one braided line is much like another, they just wont allow you to pass the test without doing it, at your cost of course. Anyway in my spares I had a full Aprilia MilleR front brake setup that i bought years back as one of the calipers was destined for my KTM SM (nice one pice Brembos), but the rest of the kit wasn't doing much and lo n behold the master to caliper hose was perfect for a thru the swingarm routing on my LC, and even better (and all those guys who have ever tried using hoses from something else will know how rare this is) the ends perfectly matched up! how damn cool is that! The full 'prila system was used for 30km only... So it looks new, fingers crossed that might make the tester happy...
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Post by JonW on Nov 4, 2011 8:21:21 GMT 1
The excitement of a pipe puzzle... Hmm... rather you than me... but sadly it is me that has this puzzle, not you... Because I transported my pipes back form the USA sans stingers this leaves me with a few things to do... - weld one the stingers (obviously) - Weld on the flange for the can - Weld on the mounting brackets Seems simple, but there are actually a few variables in all that and a number of different ways and options to get this all in place... The slant of the stingers can follow the line of the lower part of the belly, or the upper... Or go its own way... The angle towards or away from the bike can follow the belly or not, and you need to be aware that the further away in degrees at the join with the belly translates to more distance for the tail pipes from the wheel and we don't want it looking like it has its legs akimbo... Hmm... The brackets are another thing... They will need to be angled at either the pipe end or part way down, as the pipe is a different angle to the rearset or... Do what some guys have done and use different mounts elsewhere, like on the pipe belly... That's very tempting as I like a clean look... But my bike isnt that trick perhaps and I do want to keep the passenger pegs anyway so may as well use the old mounts... So... Ive sat and looked at a lot of exhausts on line, tons of members photos and then sat in my garage and looked a lot at my pipes. I did cut the stingers, held things in place by using countless cable ties and tape and was still in a number of minds about it... But I do want it done, so I got on with it... Decided to run the stingers parallel to the lower line of the belly as I liked that look, and also outer line of the belly but keeping the cans away from the swingarm. It ended up like this: And so with one side done, I then had to get the other side to not only mirror the first side in how it fitted but when it was complete and the cable ties undone it needed to fall to the same point and be level... No pressure then! Some tacking and testing and I was set... Few more tacks and its solid... Dressed it up with some bodywork on for the weekend... Welll it is Friday night and we should dress up and go out n celebrate! Wahoo, now i just need them tigged up, simple job i think, and I could Mig them i guess and grind the welds flat... I may do that if people want silly money to do these or have stupid long timeframes, its a simple task after all.
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doc03
L plate rider.
Posts: 11
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Post by doc03 on Nov 8, 2011 11:38:40 GMT 1
Hey Jon, your baby is coming along nicely now mate, well done. Mine is somewhat stalled a bit, frame issues but you might have just spurred me on a bit.
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Post by JonW on Nov 8, 2011 22:54:15 GMT 1
Thanks mate! I did wonder how yours was going as the thread has been very quiet of late, if i can help at all let me know.
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doc03
L plate rider.
Posts: 11
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Post by doc03 on Nov 10, 2011 2:29:50 GMT 1
Thx Jon, just having trouble getting time from a mate to help paint the frame and wheels so I can get on tp start assembly and "fiddling" etc. Amazed at how long it takes to get some things done and then its another thing that needs to go or come back from somewhere.... Yours is coming up a treat though ! Have you decided on where you will get paint work done yet ?
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Post by JonW on Nov 14, 2011 3:20:53 GMT 1
Ahh ok, I was worried youd found it was twisted or something, phew! Ive found the biggest headache for me has always been involving a 3rd part for something. Welding, powder and even bolts have been hassle, im starting to think its just me but people are telling me its Sydney thats the issue. Paintwork... I already have full set of KR bodywork for it to go on, so its very close to being done really. I am having my 85 YPVS painted on the central coast by Aarons guys, less than half the price in Sydney, sigh. Drop me an email if you want details for them.
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Post by lb on Nov 14, 2011 13:56:29 GMT 1
Jon can you send me those details as well too ta.Gotta get me tank sealed/sorted too......
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Post by JonW on Nov 15, 2011 4:34:16 GMT 1
Will do m8!
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Post by dogmatic on Nov 15, 2011 21:02:25 GMT 1
Wow Jon, I've just finished reading through this from start to finish. Note: the time you kept me up till. Worth it though. Some very good tips for new players, thanks for all your effort posting your progress. And you're honesty with the ups and downs.
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Post by JonW on Nov 16, 2011 5:01:57 GMT 1
Thanks M8! Glad you liked it and it kept you interested. I decided to post things as they happen on this build and it hasnt been all plain sailing, but on balance it has been a lot of fun
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Post by JonW on Nov 18, 2011 13:52:09 GMT 1
Been messing with the front brakes today, trying to bleed them... no luck so far... Gixxer 1000 radial master has a bleed valve uppermost which is useful... and i get lots of fluid out of the right caliper but less out of the left it seems... but i do have flow.... but as yet no 'lever'. So ive left it with the lever tied to the bars in the hope it may firm up... we'll see...
Few new parts landed... natty light alloy Renthal 38teeth rear sprocket and some other parts like bolts and silicone hose, but nothing major has happened as ive just been cleaning up the pipes for coating and working out if i can still use my center stand, which looks promising, although i may not bother as it sits kinda low.
Also ordered my carbs... PJ34s which will come pre jetted from Wicked who did a great job on the jetting for smads TSS500 I figured who best to do the work. should be here in a few weeks. just got to sort my electrics by then so i can start it.
Gotta place an order with norbo early next week for me headlight parts and some RZ bits... speak to you on email about that Norbs!
And just hoping to be back in contact with Mike about me headlight brackets... and then, its starting to seem like its close to being finished... eeek!
still a way to go, but it does look quite complete with the pipes fitted LOL.... appearances can be deceptive, but defo running before xmas i hope!
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Post by nikfubar on Nov 19, 2011 21:51:13 GMT 1
Hi Jon Have you tried a vacume bleeder, they work really well I'm converting my RSVR & stripped off the brake lines last night Brembo 4 pots have the banjo on top of the caliper with the bleed nipple in the banjo gonna be fun bleeding those
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Post by JonW on Nov 20, 2011 0:19:53 GMT 1
Nice spec motor mate. (haven't read the whole thread, it's a bit hard work) Might wanna swap those stainless steel barrel drain bolts for the correct plated steel ones to protect the threads in the barrels. It's not a good idea to put stainless steel into aluminium for that application as they're effectively in contact with water all the time. Cheers for the heads up, I'll have a look and see what else ive got lying around, what am i looking for? the black coated steel bolts? Would using copperslip help?
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Post by JonW on Nov 20, 2011 0:23:17 GMT 1
Hi Jon Have you tried a vacume bleeder, they work really well LOL, yep thats what im using. no way could i have got this far with the old style methods. usually by now id have had a firm lever so im surprised its not happened and makes me wonder if the master isnt working right, hmm... I'm converting my RSVR & stripped off the brake lines last night Brembo 4 pots have the banjo on top of the caliper with the bleed nipple in the banjo gonna be fun bleeding those Yeah that seup is mental isnt it, you just know all the fluid is going to be sucked out before it fills the caliper, might be best to bleed those bottom up?
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Post by JonW on Nov 20, 2011 4:13:40 GMT 1
I'll have to grab a couple of OEM ones then i guess...
right now there is coppaslip in the threads, cant see it being washed away that fast from that location, but i take your point...
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Post by lb on Nov 20, 2011 9:09:28 GMT 1
Any plated bolt would do really although the OE Yam are a zinc/olive passivated flange bolt. Copper slip could be a bit messy with the coolant and not stay on. Thing is, stainless can be OK in aluminium in most cases especially if the area is usually warm and dry and you have a good coating of anti seize, but for me I wouldn't risk putting stainless in the drain bolt hole because of the water, a perfect enviroment for galvanic corrosion. So using ss head bolts on an RZ would be abit iffy?
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