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Post by JonW on Sept 15, 2011 8:21:19 GMT 1
More progress... on the fuel cap... Everything was cleaned, most parts with a tooth brush and some WD40, and then the steel body parts went in the blaster The (stainless steel) key plate, the bit you stick the key into was bent so I gently levered it off and flattened it a bit. I also whipped out and cleaned up the vent parts, a small felt pad and a ballbearing. Then onto the body itself... Wow what a task. A quick blast got the remainer of the black paint off, and then I wanted to sand out all the imperfections. To get the big dents out wasn't fun and took about an hours with 120grit wet n dry in soapy water, some were quite deep. (pic looks like dents, but its water marks) Then decided i liked the texture of the bead blasting which i did to my ally center nut for the triple clamp, so did the cap to match. A mate who came round sait it looked plastic... hmm, cheers m8! LOL At least polishing it is simple now its all flat if wanted to go that route later. I still cant work out the sall spring and then it pinged off to a new life in a corrner of the garage. The cap still works fine... Anyone have an original yamaha key number E32523 they arent using?
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Post by JonW on Sept 15, 2011 8:26:09 GMT 1
More VP.... on the bike itself! Fitted the front wheel.... bye bye KTM wire! And the disks and the calipers (6 pots from a hyabusa) Fitted the risers and some old MX bars and the front master (GSXR1000 radial), as i wanted to see how long the brake line needs to be... its pretty long... LOL My mate who came round said, 'Well no matter what you do from now, at least it will stop pretty well!' er, yeah cheers mate...)
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Post by JonW on Sept 15, 2011 8:30:28 GMT 1
Decided to get a bit serious and mock up the tank so i could sort out the lock stops.... grabbed the tank from the rafters in the garage and things went a bit mad... i fitted the rear subframe, the cut muddy, the cut light tray and before i knew it id stuck side panels, a ducktail and a seat on it...! It looks like most of a bike! LOL Lock stops defo needed.... Never leave your mate in your garage where there is a pen... LOL
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Post by JonW on Sept 15, 2011 8:35:36 GMT 1
So whilst it looks much closer be being done, its mostly mock up im sad to say and much if it will need to come apart again before its done to be done properly or things fitted under, like indicator wiring etc. Plus... The whole front end needs to come off for the lock stops and the bracket for the clocks, then once again the top needs to come off for the headlight brackets and possibly better bars, like maybe drag bars, tho i like the MX bars... a nice urban street basher feel! LOL I also assume the ignition hole in the triple will need filing out to fit as the LC ignition is thicker, tho it is tapered i think and will need a little fettle to fit. The RGV swingarm needs reducing in width in two areas, and then the NK plates welding on, but im waiting on the last few parts (bearings and collars) before i can get that done, then just need my axle to arrive and i can fit the rear wheel and put the bike back on its wheels, a milestone! After that i need to sort the RGV rear brake setup as its a hydraulic setup and I need to mount the master on the frame and sort out how the actuator will work on the pedal. I also need to test fit the pipes so i can get the positions for the stingers and the brackets, i'll spot weld them and probably let the professions tig em for me, before i decide on the coating for the pipes. I also need to work out a side stand will fit and also check how the center stand will cope with the pipes. I still need to sort the electrics as the loom needs to integrate with the Zeel for a PV bike and also my ypvs bottom end... hmm... i can see a few days going in all that... And of course i need to build up the engine... hoepfully the PWKs will fit with the airbox and the Wicked X over manifold, and also I will need to sort out the Athena head and its silly outlet for the water which needs to be 90Deg from where it is as standard... the joys! But all that said.... we are defo moving forward!!! and im having a ball!
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Post by JonW on Sept 16, 2011 14:29:59 GMT 1
Slower progress today as other things got in the way of me working on the bike, but i have connected the front brake up using the hoses i have lying around... i always do that on a project if i dont have the snazzy brake lines yet (which when doing a project you need to measure first anyway) as Ive found if something happens when moving it i always grab the front brake, so its nice if it works... and doesnt shoot old brake fluid over your paintwork etc.
I also spoke to Tyga who are sending me my order again, the last one hasnt arrived and its been 3months now... good on them for sending it again and not making me wait any longer.
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Post by JonW on Sept 19, 2011 9:22:09 GMT 1
More progress.... Front brake... Had my delivery from Tyga and in it was a nice tiny brake reservoir and a light as a feather alloy bracket. Makes the original GSXR1000 unit seem overkill LOL Also sorted out the swingarm parts and went to the alloy welding company, sadly its almost an hours drive from here... ie 30km! gotta hate city traffic! In the usual way I will namecheck them if they are up to spec of course, but so far all indications are that they are on it. Good news is that I should have it back by Thursday as well, fast turnaround is welcome whilst im making so much progress! As you can see i marked up the parts so there wont be any question about which way they go... I dont want any mistakes with my parts at this point of course... And yes I built it all up on my spare frame so the welders can see how it all fits together before they start, should save some time etc
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Post by kennyroberts on Sept 19, 2011 20:30:05 GMT 1
looking awesome, cant wait to see more progress, about the small spring in the fuel cap, there is normally a tiny ball bearing as well, this acts like a locator with the spring forcing it to sit in a round recess somewhere, these are also in the switchgear and the rear foot pegs..., it will work without, it just feels like it "clicks into position" more precisely ....keep them pics coming !
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Post by JonW on Sept 19, 2011 23:01:24 GMT 1
Cool, Thanks for the info, The spring being used with the ball bearing that i did find as a detent would make complete sense, tho i thought the ball was part of the vent system... unless there are meant to be two of them? The ball bearing i found was down the rectangular hole at about 11oclock in the photo below, under a small spring loaded plate... there was also a small felt pad in there which was chock full of dirt/dust and seemed the pad and the ball bearing had separate locating holes, the one with the pad had a hole under it. Of course it could well have been apart before and not been put back together correctly...
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Post by paddyontour on Sept 20, 2011 10:24:21 GMT 1
Jon, I doff my cap to you mate - that's a cracking rebuild Did you ever get the air-screw/spring for the Keihins 'cos I've got one you can have if yer still looking? I'm lovin the piccies, lots 'n lots'!
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Post by rdorvfr on Sept 20, 2011 11:32:51 GMT 1
Hi Jon, Did the tyres come from Whites at Ingleburn open Thursday nights?? I'll be needing some for my 250 in a few weeks. Letting the paint dry a little.
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2011 0:21:20 GMT 1
Jon, I doff my cap to you mate - that's a cracking rebuild Did you ever get the air-screw/spring for the Keihins 'cos I've got one you can have if yer still looking? I'm lovin the piccies, lots 'n lots'! Thanks m8! i did get the screw in the end from Henner who hooked me up when he was ordering from Allens a while back, but thanks very much for the offer, it is very much appreciated. Yeah, I always think pics are what makes a good thread, I can waffle on all like, bt if you cant see what i see then you'll not get what im saying LOL
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2011 0:24:27 GMT 1
Hi Jon, Did the tyres come from Whites at Ingleburn open Thursday nights?? I'll be needing some for my 250 in a few weeks. Letting the paint dry a little. I got them from the same guys, but Craig has a second guy called Michael who is in the north side of Sydney and is only about 15mins from me, Ingleburn is more like 45, so ive not yet met Craig or been to his shop there. Good guys tho in my view, they know tyres and bikes well.
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Post by Norbo on Sept 21, 2011 9:00:42 GMT 1
if your using the 3 spokes what are you doing with the wire wheels ?
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2011 10:16:56 GMT 1
They are KTM OEMs from my KTMaha supermoto Norbo. Its another project, KTM 250EXC with a YPVS motor in it, there is a link in the first post on this thread. Those wheels were only on this project for mock up purposes, they are 17's, have a 17mm front axle and a 20mm rear axle... ie the same as the RGV wheels so since they had tyres and the RGV 3 spokes were being polishes/painted and were 'nude' I just used the KTM wheels. I really dont like the look of spoked wheels on the LC, just doesnt work in my mind, dunno why tho, just looks odd to me.
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Post by JonW on Sept 21, 2011 10:18:57 GMT 1
Today's update... Front end came off again... sorted the lock stops finally and also cut and welded some brackets to attach the dash, and also provide strength to the underside of the top triple as they are like large triangular washers. no pics, but will be blasted and painted tomorrow... Terrible photo, but you should get the idea. these blocks are cut down Acerbis handguard mounts i had lying around from my off road days. I bolted them solidly at the rear and put pins thru the parts just in case there was any side ways movement, more for peace of mind really. Got a call... my swingarm has been welded... pickup is tomorrow... cant wait!
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Post by JonW on Sept 22, 2011 8:11:41 GMT 1
Swingarm is picked up... looks good and strong! Good work by NK in the UK for the plates and the clever adjustable ride height and also to Aluminium Engineering in Brrokvale, Sydney who did the welding, including the crack mentioned earlier in the thread. Some pics of the Swinger... And of course I mocked it up on the bike as I wanted to make sure it didnt hit anything and it worked well, before i have it blasted and powdercoated. I did notice that one of the tangs it hits the undertray / inner mudguard when its at rest, so that will need cutting out. did everyone else have that problem? And.... What can i say. the wheel looks enormous in the back of an LC... PERFECT! hahaha! Talking of the size of things.... I was building up the frame stuff a few weeks back and for ages it was a frame with front end on it, then one day i added the tank and stood back.... I thought 'eek, the LC is really huge!', I think that was because the last bikes i was working on were the MT250s and they are quite thin of frame too, but also have small tanks so dont 'grow' quite as much as the LC does once you clothe it. Then 20mins later my mrs comes home, looks in the garage and says 'wow, its cute! what a small bike...'. I was about to tell her size doesnt matter, but felt id better shut up really... Left my Athena head at the welders to have the water outlet angle fixed. As standard the Athena kit has an outlet that sticks straight out front, ie into the rad on the bike, its probably fine on the Banshee of course. So you need a solution to get the outlet to run up at 90 degrees to how it is, and in a small amount of space. Some people have threaded the old outlet and fitted something like a plumbing fitting, some have welded and some have used hoses and spaced their rad out a bit. ive opted for having an outlet tigged on, should be a simple solution and cost the same as the messing about the other ways etc.
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Post by lb on Sept 23, 2011 13:30:05 GMT 1
Wow,Jon,thats excellent progress!Im guessing these are some of the parts you needed tigged?Thats going to be such a sweet ride when she finished. See,I am regreting it even more now....can you send me those pic's please.......?
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Post by JonW on Sept 24, 2011 1:38:39 GMT 1
Hi m8, good to see you on here! Yes those were some of my Tig needs. The swingarm was the biggest of the work, then the head and then a few small jobs like the stand and some other small bits. Had it been steel id have been fine with my Mig but ive never played with alloy and obviously i wanted strong welds, these do proper work, not like the odd small bracket etc. Yeah regret is a bugger, LOL. If the weather is decent tomorrow i will pull the 'spare LC' out and take the pics and write it up for ebay I guess... Its a bummer having a whole LC in boxes clogging up the entrance to your garage and ive no room to store another bike in bits Er, what pics did you want mate?
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Post by JonW on Sept 26, 2011 13:46:30 GMT 1
....we trundle ever forwards.... Two birds with one, er bracket.... Sorted out solidifying my bar and clock mounts in one go by cutting up a set of R6 rear shock mount plates... A bizarre choice, but, er, they were what i had handy, and they are nice and thick. These triangles act as a solid steel 'washer' to spread the load from the handlebar mounts across the bottom of the alloy top triple clamp, and I also have a square nut welded to them at the right place to accept the original LC dash so it bolts on much like it did on the original LC. Took a bit of lining up and getting the bolts cut down etc, but it seems to work well. (you can see some of the original square buts in the tray below in the pics) Painted up the triples now that all the work is pretty much done to these parts and they will be fitted for good soon, and also fitted the clocks and made sure it all fits. Spent quite a while working through cleaning up and fixing the best of my LC ignitions. During that work I found out that someone had broken the steering lock at some time, pretty easy to do I guess, most people think you can break a bike steering lock just by slamming the steering from side to side and eventually it will give... Im not convinced with this type of lock, as the pin was still sticking out after the violence i reckon. The damage consisted of the cast slider that carried the big pin that acts as the 'lock' that you see sticking out when its locked. The carrier is a cast box like unit and had been snapped clean thru at one of the 'edges' that hold the pin. I fixed it by using a spare one from a dead lock. simples. A clean up with WD, some grease and ive got a nice clicking and working ignition and lock. schweet! Reamed out the ignition hole in the top triples so the LC ignition slides in... easy to do as there isnt much material to remove to get the LC parts in the triple... and then found out the LC ignition location holes didnt line up... The ignition unit is not only stepped slightly off towards the front of the bike, its also a bit lower than the RGV, so will hang by the bolts, and the forward angle you get when doing up the bolts actually helps pull the ignition away from the headstock, and mount it solidly as its locked into place by the angle of the bolts, just need to be careful of pulling the threads from the alloy in the top triple. I havent decided if i will just loctite these bolts when im finally finished messing with them to ensure they stay in place, or i will try filing the holes in the ignition switch housing to get it to hang straight so i can do it up properly. My worry is the gap between the lock and the frame. hmm.... Fitted the top triples back on the bike and found the steering lock part of the ignition was in the way of the steering lock stop plate welded to the headstock. hmm... seems you need to fit the ignition after the triples or it wont go on and it's also too low to be used as a lock in this setup. ahh well all that work fixing my steering lock was wasted then, oops. If you see in the photo, the lock part of the ignition only just clears the headstock, but its enough...
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Post by JonW on Sept 26, 2011 14:00:20 GMT 1
Changed the title of this thread to make more sense since ive progressed enough to know now what this bike will be... its still my preftect 'retro' bike, but now its actually starting to happen!
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Post by lcowner on Sept 26, 2011 14:20:04 GMT 1
looks good john how much do nk charge for the brackets?
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Post by JonW on Sept 26, 2011 23:21:25 GMT 1
I think they were about 125quid, but not sure if that was with the shipping to Aus or not. Nigel was easy to deal with even over all this distance, and if you speak to him please do say 'hello' to him from me, and tell him where you saw the post. If i was living where you are i would probably send him the whole swinger and let him do it all for you. Postage from here would be just plain silly hence i was forced to buy just the brackets and then have them welded but it meant i was on a two stage process which meant it took longer etc.
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Post by JonW on Sept 27, 2011 10:30:39 GMT 1
Just been to the blaster and coaters with my 85 RZ frame... ouch... expensive... at the same time i took in a few LC parts, like an uncut rear subframe and the swingarm. They wanted all the lumpy grease and oil off and out of the nooks n crannies of the RGV swinger, as they say that it will not get removed by the media and it will just allow the media to stick there on the part. It then has the potential to ruin the powdercoating as it will take powder no problme, but run as it heats up and the grease turns to butter... so I take all my parts home and get that paintbrush and the kerosene out...
So the bike looks less assembled that it did this morning as the tank, seat, swinger and a bunch of other bits got removed to go to powder and now they are sat in the garage dripping form being rinsed... one step forward... ish... hmm...
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Post by JonW on Sept 28, 2011 13:17:52 GMT 1
Dropped by to another set of blaster and powdercoating places (all seem to be about 45mins each way from my home LOL) and these guys seem a bit more on the ball and the prices were keener (but not 'cheap cheap', just 'more fair') and the guys seemed to actually be interested in the work and the bikes themselves, the powdercoater has a yamaha and said 'more expensive for Honda, Yamaha is always discounted' LOL!
So a few small LC parts like the rear subframe and the grabrail got left there along with the RGV swingarm (and also pretty much most of the metalwork on my YPVS250-to-350 build). Pick up is next week... Still waiting on a few swingarm parts for the RGV swinger, but hopefully i can build the back end up in 10 days or so.
Note to self - Tomorrow.... Need to sort out finding wheel bearings... as my contact just seems to be ignoring my off-ebay request, which i made as i need so many of the things as im doing a few bikes in one go! cant buy em locally... Aussie bearing shops are on another planet price wise, sigh...
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Post by JonW on Sept 29, 2011 9:38:20 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Sept 29, 2011 9:41:39 GMT 1
Not saying its cold in here but burrrr.... ok, crap joke, but i often feel like im talking to myself when i write updates in this thread (feel free to chime in a say thats not true guys! LOL).... So my burrs arrived and I cut the cases to match the transfer ports... took about 2 hours from start to finish and isnt hard work, just painstaking not to remove too much material. I now have awe for the tuners who do this stuff daily... it takes sooo long! snow anyone?! The chips are actually quite cool, theyre not that sharp and sweep up easily. Followed up with a clean up and a sand but the finish isnt not that smooth, how smooth should this be? some say that turbulence is good at the transfers? anyone want to comment? Obviously i did all 4 transfers... the pics dont show it as such LOL
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Post by JonW on Sept 29, 2011 9:50:29 GMT 1
Next job... sorted out me new seat... Ages back i bought a seat listed as NOS on ebay, it came with a modern repro cover. All good. Dont mention the shipping, it wasnt cheap as you can imagine! LOL The original white cover had a few marks on it and no way do i want a white seat on my bike, so the black cover was to go on it... the repro isnt a patch on the quality of the original, but i guess we dont have much other option. Stripped the old cover, the rear part of the seat obviously has been wet as the staples were rusted thru, eek. Luckily the foam was perfect underneath that. new cover went on fine and stapled up ok. The original was also glued, but im not a fan of gluing covers right away. I like to get them to form into shape for a while so I let them sit for a bit (few days in the warm house) and then come back and glue them bit by bit along the edge. I also only do this once im happy the cover is in the right position (pattern is equal on both sides and no lopsided and any logos line up) and also the edges have got used to being pulled round back on themselves etc. What was good is that this repro cover fitted well enough not to wrinkle and fitted right first time, everything lined up really well including the YAMAHA logo on the back, these often get pulled out of shape when you first fit the cover, so im happy and will glue it up next week. quality of original less good repro (less defined) nasty! Luckily fine when you whip off its skin! and the OEM plastic to keep the foam dry in rain is a quality touch. trial fit and done! Anyone want to make me an offer for this old NOS skin?! no rips, just a few marks that might clean out, and its a bit 'creamy' coloured not white...
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Post by nikfubar on Sept 29, 2011 10:37:49 GMT 1
Jon Nice work ;D I just run a flapper wheel on the dremmel over the porting to give it a satin finish
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Post by JonW on Sept 29, 2011 12:47:14 GMT 1
Thanks m8! Cool, i used a normal dremel 'roll of sandpaper' thingy to tidy up and its 'satiny' now so maybe its cool as it stands, actually my set of tiny carbide cutters from ebay fitted the dremel's drill chuck perfectly and chomped thru the alloy easy enough. To be honest the amount of stuff that needed to come out left piles of chips on the bench, so there is defo some extra CCV in there now and the air/fuel charge will get into the cylinders easier as well, seems like a bonus on all counts.
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Post by lcowner on Sept 29, 2011 13:00:03 GMT 1
niceee,if u get those welds pollished up a bit theyed look better mate.how much u looking for the white seat cover?cheers RD Nut!
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