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Post by headcoats on Apr 27, 2024 10:33:39 GMT 1
LC Tacho has started playing up
The needle from about 4000rpm is moving about.
I did put a new clock face on this a few years ago and thought everything looked OK inside 😢
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Post by headcoats on Apr 27, 2024 11:09:31 GMT 1
Is something like this recommended ?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 8:32:07 GMT 1
I didn't have time to watch the 14 min video, but normally if a tacho starts fluctuating, and you have checked that its not the cable snatching, and its well lubricated, then most likely because the internal damper has discharged and not functioning, and maybe the spring is worn too.
Easiest is to replace the mechanism with one from a donor clock. I haven't found a way to refill the damper fluid.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 28, 2024 8:51:52 GMT 1
Blimey didn't know it had damper fluid in it
When you say replace the mechanism, is that the whole lot or or just a certain part ?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 9:02:40 GMT 1
Normally the damper fluid leaks all over the rotating bell causing needle movement stiction too. Quite common in these old tachos and speedos.
Assuming its for a 4L1/0 You should be able to re-use the temp gauge which is screwed to the tacho mechanism, but you would need to replace that part in full.
You still use your existing bezel, glass, housing, needle and facia.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 28, 2024 9:20:34 GMT 1
Is it quite a common thing then Shaun
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 9:31:00 GMT 1
Is it quite a common thing then Shaun Yes. |
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Post by headcoats on Apr 28, 2024 9:40:32 GMT 1
Booger
So I guess you have loads of scrap mechanisms Shaun 🤯🤯
I do have a spare to try so next question is can I leave the clock bracket connected and just get the tacho out or do I have to remove the whole assembly to get in there ?
I remember putting it together and had a headache routing the wiring correctly
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 11:23:29 GMT 1
If its 4L0 you have to remove black under casing and the mount bracket to remove the tacho. The tacho wiring sub loom comes out with it, no need to remove speedo sub loom nor centre lights sub loom.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 28, 2024 14:57:19 GMT 1
Well that was frustrating...
Bit fiddly but fitted the spare tacho which then proceeded to screech 🙈
So I did have a spare ,spare, but that one was the one if I ever did the third build.
I was quicker fitting the third one and hopefully this one is ok
Hopefully the screeching one can be repaired ?
I can see why folks fit aftermarket stuff but the clocks are iconic even on a Hybrid IMO
An electronic tacho using the LC clock face with the original temp guage would be nice
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 20:23:50 GMT 1
Screeching is easily solved as nearly always a dry bush on the cable inlet.
Take tacho (or speedo off), clean all the old grease and crap off the underside off the cable entry, and drop in a little bit of 3 in 1 oil or similar.
Spin up the tacho for a minute or so to allow it to penetrate, and leave clock upside drown overnight.
Don't over oil, but a little will solve the problem.
Spin up again before fitting and hopefully all is silent and moving easily.
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Post by headcoats on Apr 28, 2024 21:15:25 GMT 1
That's good to know Shaun
I will try that and hopefully have a good spare again 👍
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Post by headcoats on Apr 29, 2024 9:34:21 GMT 1
The Fluctuating tacho, I put a bit of oil in and it has stopped the fluctuation!
Tried with the drill several times to get it to flutter and it didn't.
Held the drill speed at different RPM'S too and needle stayed steady.
Messing with my head now LOL😆
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 29, 2024 12:12:40 GMT 1
Sounds like a Result. I'm guessing that there was friction in the cable connector that was causing some snatching of the needle movement.
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