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Post by Bozzy on Mar 16, 2024 1:17:51 GMT 1
Hi, Before I have a go thought it well worth asking if any best tips for removing YPVS engine and not damaging frame.. decided to remove RH cover and clutch, dotn want to try and remove exhaust studs as they dont look good and can see shearing time! so thats going to be fun not to hit frame. Was thinking removing the head and cylinders as well but quite tight to undo
Just wondered if anyone found best way,, from right side, put some thin wood under motor to help?
Thanks for any tips
Bozzy
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Post by JonW on Mar 16, 2024 1:22:11 GMT 1
pipe lagging or taped on rags also works
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Post by arrow on Mar 16, 2024 2:00:18 GMT 1
Wife's favourite bath towel draped around the frame in appropriate places works pretty well too.
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 16, 2024 8:54:06 GMT 1
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Post by 4l04ever on Mar 16, 2024 9:22:27 GMT 1
I used an old towel for removal as easy to push in and pull out.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 16, 2024 9:30:10 GMT 1
You can do it yourself, but I would advise a 2nd pair of hands and eyes.
Pipe lagging for me to and tape up the exhaust studs.
Take carbs off.
I also drain the oil and remove any covers in situ just to keep weight down.
Its fairly straight forward.
Good luck.
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Post by arrow on Mar 16, 2024 13:27:01 GMT 1
What surprised me the first time I did it, (about 14 years ago) is the weight of the thing. Ok, there are bigger motors, but its still quite a lump on your own.
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Post by huggy76 on Mar 16, 2024 14:44:40 GMT 1
As above, either pipe lagging or old towels around frame but I put a bit of rubber pipe over the exhaust studs.
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Post by rigga on Mar 16, 2024 18:43:37 GMT 1
Pipe lagging is a must.
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Post by headcoats on Mar 16, 2024 20:08:15 GMT 1
Personally I take as much off as in top end,clutch,flywheel etc and do the same when putting it back in
Engine is easier to bolt things onto when in frame as doesn't try and move about ,especially when tightening the clutch and flywheel nuts
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Post by Bozzy on Mar 16, 2024 22:38:34 GMT 1
thanks all.. like the pipe lagging bought some today....think plenty of tape etc... good shout on the studs plan to put some fuel hose over them...
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Post by JonW on Mar 17, 2024 1:16:02 GMT 1
If you also get a helper, it, er, 'helps'...
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Post by pdxjim on Mar 17, 2024 7:24:33 GMT 1
Leave the kickstart on. Makes a good handle.
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 17, 2024 9:04:18 GMT 1
Once you are ready to go, move it out halfway and let it rest on the (protected) frame tube. That will enable you to reposition yourself and have a "breather" if you need it  I always treat it as a 2 stage job - half out then fully out. Same process going back in the frame too  |
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Post by stusco on Mar 17, 2024 11:00:34 GMT 1
Aye and watch your back!!
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Post by muttsnuts on Mar 17, 2024 13:14:19 GMT 1
I use an old car rubber floor mat, slips under the engine, goes over both frame rails and is tough enough to resist any bolds/sharp bits etc and also doesn't catch or tear etc
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Post by JonW on Mar 17, 2024 13:49:05 GMT 1
One word of advice... (said on other similar threads Im sure)
Dont leave the stator / rotor off without protecting the crank's keyway. It will open you up like a knife through butter if you catch your finger wrongly as the edges are super sharp. A wind of tape will save you tho.
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Post by abar121 on Mar 17, 2024 16:50:16 GMT 1
Personally I take as much off as in top end,clutch,flywheel etc and do the same when putting it back in Engine is easier to bolt things onto when in frame as doesn't try and move about ,especially when tightening the clutch and flywheel nuts This, also get the JIS impact and loosen everything whilst in the frame, before removal. |
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Post by chrisg on Mar 17, 2024 21:55:16 GMT 1
Personally I take as much off as in top end,clutch,flywheel etc and do the same when putting it back in Engine is easier to bolt things onto when in frame as doesn't try and move about ,especially when tightening the clutch and flywheel nuts There are some nuts that are tight, so lossen them or remove them, clutch (as you stated), crank, flywheel and engine sprocket. Personally i take as much off to reduce the weight. I remove the engine out to the right, just my prefference. When refitting i use a scossor jack to get the engine in yhe correct position, fitting the rear mount first. Good luck. |
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Post by lcmarky on Mar 18, 2024 9:21:49 GMT 1
Plastic spiral wrap around the frame rails!
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Post by lcmarky on Mar 18, 2024 9:22:26 GMT 1
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Post by Bozzy on Mar 23, 2024 0:13:41 GMT 1
cheers ended up removing barrels and used the pipe lagging and tape all went well thanks motor out no issues.... like the above for when I refit as I expect need to fit barrels and head before fitting
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Post by headcoats on Mar 23, 2024 8:02:32 GMT 1
You don't need to fit barrels before putting engine cases back in
There is room to get them in with cases bolted in
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2024 8:05:36 GMT 1
Its easier to pressure test it on the bench is why i do the barrels on before fitting...
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Post by abar121 on Mar 23, 2024 11:26:17 GMT 1
Its easier to pressure test it on the bench is why i do the barrels on before fitting... I don't see a big difference, provided you have a bike lift? Am I missing something? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 23, 2024 12:09:50 GMT 1
It's a bigger p1sser when you find a leak that needs the engine split again
One day I'll make up a plate with a couple towers for the con rods to go up into so I can pressure test a bottom end on its own
Steve
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2024 12:40:21 GMT 1
Yes as Steve says, its ok if it passes, its if it doesnt...
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Post by abar121 on Mar 23, 2024 12:52:54 GMT 1
Well yes, that's always a pisser |
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