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Post by sheep911uk on Feb 8, 2024 21:52:54 GMT 1
Has anyone repaired gravel rash damaged cases?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2024 14:02:11 GMT 1
Yes I have repaired a couple now. They are still not perfect but everything was a little better each time i did it. First the gravel rash cleaned up and then welded. Second the welding is machined to suit the rest of the case. The most important part is preparing a good surface to weld onto and then make sure you put enough weld on. I think this method is not cost effective when you consider the effort and material costs involved. Plus still a bit shonky.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 9, 2024 21:17:15 GMT 1
Credit where it's due Toby, I just used filler and wet and dry, but obviously can't get the powdercoated after I did that.
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Post by oldbritguy on Feb 9, 2024 21:49:27 GMT 1
Shonky. Good word. I like it. Very descriptive.
Other than that it is a superb repair. Cost effective if you have access to a friendly welder who still takes alcohol as payment. Bonus it the welder can operate a mill too.
Good replacement cases not so cheap now.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 9, 2024 22:24:18 GMT 1
Brilliant repair!
Filler for me, then a rattle can.
Alex
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Post by sheep911uk on Feb 9, 2024 22:56:57 GMT 1
Shonky. Good word. I like it. Very descriptive. Other than that it is a superb repair. Cost effective if you have access to a friendly welder who still takes alcohol as payment. Bonus it the welder can operate a mill too. Good replacement cases not so cheap now. Excellent I know a welder and we have a machine shop at work !!!
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Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2024 23:49:26 GMT 1
Yes I have repaired a couple now. They are still not perfect but everything was a little better each time i did it. First the gravel rash cleaned up and then welded. Second the welding is machined to suit the rest of the case. The most important part is preparing a good surface to weld onto and then make sure you put enough weld on. I think this method is not cost effective when you consider the effort and material costs involved. Plus still a bit shonky. Yes Tobyjugs repaired case has now found a new home on “Tiggy” And an excellent repair it is too👍👍
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2024 12:00:19 GMT 1
The Engine case Al has was the first one i did. Thank you for the nice words but you still need to fill in a few pits etc. A few years back Norbo offered a load of scuffed up cases for sale or a trip to the tip with them. At that moment i was in clutch mode and thought i could use them for dry clutches. They were mostly 4L0 cases. Fast forward a year or two i made some jigs for making dry clutches easy to make with out spending (expensive?) time aligning components on lathes and milling machines. Apart from the water and oil pump differences, there are other differences between the YPVS and 4L0 cases. Basically the 4L0 case is thinner/more delicate compared to the beefier YPVS case. It just so happens that one of the jigs is also good for road rash repairs. Still not that easy to do because you have to take distortion into consideration. So far no complaints from the other two people i have helped. Luckily not forum members so no spotlight .
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Post by panzermatt on Feb 11, 2024 13:08:29 GMT 1
why not just buy a new one off norbo?
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Post by JonW on Feb 11, 2024 13:30:14 GMT 1
Ive also welded like Tony did and then linished/filed it back and the powder coated. I did a bunch to repair all the junk ones I had. It worked really well.
You can still buy new YPVS ones from Yam, but not LC... not cheap tho.
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Post by bezzer on Feb 11, 2024 14:53:00 GMT 1
I’ve had good results filing the worst of the ‘high’ spots down then JB weld (the aluminium putty), I also know there’s a car body filler that is a predominantly aluminium based paste, if heat was a factor?.
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Post by sheep911uk on Feb 11, 2024 15:12:26 GMT 1
I’ve had good results filing the worst of the ‘high’ spots down then JB weld (the aluminium putty), I also know there’s a car body filler that is a predominantly aluminium based paste, if heat was a factor?. Can you powdercoat JB weld ?
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Post by bezzer on Feb 11, 2024 15:16:27 GMT 1
Good question mate…. I’m sorry I’ve no idea?!, I used PJ1 satin paint, on my LC and DT175MX using the JB method. I’m sure someone with a chemistry based background will be along to elaborate on this soon 👍🏻
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 11, 2024 15:43:57 GMT 1
Not sure about powdercoating JB weld, but you can Cerakote it. The air dry Cerakote doesn't need heat to cure it. Arguably a better finish for side cases anyway. Petrol spills wont affect Cerakote, but can ruin powdercoat. Cerkote is watery thin though, so surface prep will show up more readily with Cerakote than the thicker powder finish.
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 11, 2024 15:48:09 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 11, 2024 15:54:58 GMT 1
I used a satin black engine paint from Halfords on a cylinder head some years back. Cant remember if it was Simonize, but petrol wouldn't touch it . I let it cure, then decided to strip it and do it again and I washed it in petrol thinking it would just come off. Absolutely not ! Didn't even dull the finish. Had to wire brush it in the end. Tough paint !
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 11, 2024 17:04:20 GMT 1
I used a satin black engine paint from Halfords on a cylinder head some years back. Cant remember if it was Simonize, but petrol wouldn't touch it . I let it cure, then decided to strip it and do it again and I washed it in petrol thinking it would just come off. Absolutely not ! Didn't even dull the finish. Had to wire brush it in the end. Tough paint ! Was it the spray on type or the brush on?
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 11, 2024 19:22:57 GMT 1
Spray can Rob. I was amazed at just how resistant to petrol it was. I will dig through some old build threads to see if I can find what it was
🙂
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Post by abar121 on Feb 11, 2024 20:22:05 GMT 1
I use the Gloss Black Simoniz Enamel engine paint on loads of stuff including engine covers. Filled a with deep scratches with filler, no problem.
As above, it isn't bothered by petrol once set. Gives a lovely durable finish, also great for frames.
I have used the tough black, but it wasn't up to much to be honest.
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Post by JonW on Feb 12, 2024 0:47:53 GMT 1
I’ve had good results filing the worst of the ‘high’ spots down then JB weld (the aluminium putty), I also know there’s a car body filler that is a predominantly aluminium based paste, if heat was a factor?. Can you powdercoat JB weld ? Yes. You dont want to give it to some place that does fence panels in bulk tho... (not that the UK has many PC fence panels, unlike Aus). PC cures at around 200DegC and JBWeld will cope with above that. Some places overheat the ovens and dont care too much about your item so beware. There is also a higher heat JBWeld option in the range so use that. I repaired my 251LC end cans with JBWeld and Powder. The pics of the process might still be on the thread if imgur hasnt deleted them.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Feb 12, 2024 7:18:56 GMT 1
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red998
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 211
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Post by red998 on Feb 12, 2024 9:11:20 GMT 1
I have used it on my side cases and it does work very well and is pretty tough, I don't think you will have any problems and it's a good match to the original finish.
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red998
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 211
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Post by red998 on Feb 12, 2024 9:21:20 GMT 1
Belzona and Devoncon make aluminium epoxy repair putties and I used to use Devcon to repair the grooves in TZ Powervalve cases when they used to drop a crank rod and put a groove in the cases.
I know people who have even repaired holes in cases using the same method. However, I don't know if you can powdercoat over it. I would have thought so as it can deal with heat and pressure.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 12, 2024 9:59:11 GMT 1
I just tidied up some standard exhausts this weekend using Hi temp JB weld. Its very gritty when you apply it, and you can still see the patch after smoothing and painting (paint has dulled more, over the JB weld)
Might try with some of the others mentioned above.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 12, 2024 12:43:50 GMT 1
Another coat should sort that out once the first is cured
Steve
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