|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 30, 2024 0:36:44 GMT 1
Those pistons look worse for wear
Partial seizure marks and lots of blow by
Cases are fine but crank needs binned
Steve
|
|
|
Post by urbantangleweed on Mar 30, 2024 8:08:00 GMT 1
Well at least you found several things that could be the source of your noise so that's a good thing.
For me, it'd be a new crank (welded ones usually won't be rebuilt) and maybe consider a Hot Rods one as the bearings are held in place with O rings rather than pegs, rebore with new pistons, a set of new gearbox bearings and a set of new engine seals (genuine for at least the crank ones is best).
Clean off all that horrible blue gasket goo and re-assemble using proper Threebond stuff.
Pattern gasket sets are plenty good enough, just make sure you follow the proper procedure for assembling the top end to make sure the barrels pull up to the head correctly.
While it's apart, it's worth stripping the powervalves too and see what state they and the bushes are in. If all looks good there, re-assemble with new castle seals and O rings.
Oh, one other thing, if you're running an oil pump, it would be worth sending it to Arrow for a refurb to ensure the cylinders are getting the correct amount of oil. The damage on the pistons could be down to lack of lubrication.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 30, 2024 8:47:15 GMT 1
I agree, time to do a comprehensive rebuild with the right parts. It's gonna cost, but do it right and you achieve longevity and reliability. Always Yam seals and gaskets for me, and essential for crank seals.
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on Mar 30, 2024 14:09:47 GMT 1
Hi thanks for reply. Yep talk about cost but decided all new yam bearings and seals through out, new crank rebore and pistons. Pv are quite good so just putting in new pushes and seals whilst it’s down. I think it’s only done 5k since rebuild pv are tight but rest motor don’t feel like it. I will speak to pj,s who have the crank about alternatives but hope standard new crank will be ok. Could use a bit of bearing loctight but uneasy using stuff near crank
Got Gen gaskets as well but going instant gasket sealant as well after speaking with Norbo the other day play safe
Regarding pump arrow refurb it for me about 3+ years ago and it’s done only about 2k. It did smoke slightly more which from post was normals so know it was ok on oil. TBH I cant remember it ever nipping up etc or anything to worry about so sure this was perhaps post rebuild original owner because marks are quite polished.
Bike was set up on dyno and I jetted up one on mains after feedback on here so it’s been running great and was strong before strip down in fact I was redlining the thing so I was a bit shocked to se those marks
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 30, 2024 14:28:48 GMT 1
Wouldn't use bearing lock on the crank
Don't think bearings have spun as there would be gouge marks where the pins had ripped around
You can sometimes just get polished or witness marks where the bearings have heavy loads on them
I'd deffo be looking at why the left piston is so badly marked. At 5k miles in its not a tight bore lol
As has been said it could be lubrication related so best if the oil pump is checked
Steve
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on Mar 30, 2024 23:57:20 GMT 1
yep been speaking will Arrow and he reminded me to check the pump minimum stoke gap that we should do every 2,000mls as book seen loads of info on the forum..
Thought I'd drop this note for others as reminder unless its just me :-( easily forgotten....
|
|