Steering lock stop LC2 1984

[tucktonite]

Hi, new poster here (although nearly 60 not that new). I have recently acquired a box of bits that seem to be a matching numbers 31k lc2 with 9k on the clock.

From a bit of reading on here, It's all original although the forks+front brakes and exhaust seem to be from an F2, I was wondering If I should use these or go original 31K with smaller caliper mounts?

I'm not a complete novice, I own a GPZ1100 and GSX’s but have not worked on a 2 strokes since my DT175 days, so I may be asking questions If that’s OK.

The first thing I need sorting Is the steering lock stop on the frame, It has been removed by the previous owner and I’d like to get It welded back on. Would anybody be kind enough to give me some dimensions or pics please, even the thickness etc, I have searched, but probably not a common request.

I’m In Bournemouth If anyone fancy a chat, cheers for any help.

[dusty350]

Hi
Welcome to the forum. You can use the F2 front end, be be aware the forks are longer on that model as the bars are "clip on" style and mount above the yokes, and dont use Lc type bars like the Lc2. If you want originality, then you will need to source Lc2 forks and yokes, and calipers and front muddie.

Dusty

[dusty350]

Oh, and Lc2 pipes unless you go with aftermarket spannies

[tucktonite]

The wheels yokes and bars all seem lc2, so It must have been on there at some point, can the forks be made to fit or will the forks foul the bars?

[dusty350]

The later forks will fit the earlier yokes, the wheel will fit too. Which mudguard do you have ? F2 muddie fits to a brace and is different to the Lc2 which is like the Lc set up
The longer forks can protrude through the top yoke to lose some of the extra height - just depends on how original you want the bike to be, and if the " look" concerns you.

[tucktonite]

Yes, F2 mudguard ally panel on top, It's red with a black back piece. Any advantage to F2 forks/brakes or same as 31K? just wondering why It was swapped, assumed It was perhaps the done thing In the day, as later brakes or forks maybe much better?

[Shytalk]

The earlier brakes were a single piston version, the late ones - that you have fitted now are twin piston, and as you have seen the caliper mounts are different spacings.

[tucktonite]

Oct 5, 2023 12:38:57 GMT 1 Shytalk said:

The earlier brakes were a single piston version, the late ones - that you have fitted now are twin piston, and as you have seen the caliper mounts are different spacings.

Twin pots, never noticed that earlier, good shout. If this was your bike would you use them or go stock, I don't want to spend loads on these then do It all again.

Unless anyone on here wants to swap.

[dusty350]

The other option with F2 forks is you can fit even better calipers of a Triumph. Better calipers are possible for Lc2 forks but need adapter plates which are around 130 quid a pair now, before you source calipers

🙂

[tucktonite]

I think stock Is nicer, although stock F2 which i have or stock 31k, looking at prices probably £500? for forks/brakes/muddy then a rebuild probably.
This looks like It's going to be costly, just checked all the suspension parts and most need replacing. You can buy most parts but what about the dog legs (swingarm-shock bottom links) where can you buy those, as ones from ebay will likely be just as bad?

[stusco]

Have you looked in norbo’s shop?
Nk racing does dog bones and other goodies
I like the gpz got any pictures

[dusty350]

Welcome to the world of Lc/Pv rebuilds Nothing is cheap unfortunately.
Work out what you want at the end of it. A bike to ride and enjoy that doesn't have to be period correct may cost less than one where you have had to hunt down age specific parts. I would build with what you've got until you know what you need to spend on the engine, coz that alone can swallow serious cash. I'd also be checking the condition of the tank fairly early on, coz that's one of the few parts you cant get off the shelf new.

[tucktonite]

I have loads of Pics, but not sure how to.

[tucktonite]

Oct 5, 2023 16:28:00 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

Welcome to the world of Lc/Pv rebuilds Nothing is cheap unfortunately.
Work out what you want at the end of it. A bike to ride and enjoy that doesn't have to be period correct may cost less than one where you have had to hunt down age specific parts. I would build with what you've got until you know what you need to spend on the engine, coz that alone can swallow serious cash. I'd also be checking the condition of the tank fairly early on, coz that's one of the few parts you cant get off the shelf new.

I've already stripped the tank, and there are holes at the lowest point and a few dents, finding someone capable to correct will be a challenge. Regarding the engine the pistons have stuck to the bores, so just filled with oil until later.

I'm assuming I will need a total engine rebuild regardless, as the oil seals all over will be trash, or should I just try and fire It up? probably not.

Also missing the fairing and belly pan.

The main issue Is the steering lock stop on the frame, I'd like to do that before powder coat really, I don't suppose anyone has a frame for some measurements?

Sorry all this Is a bit random, but I'm just going through the last of the boxes of bits and have more questions than answers right now.

[dusty350]

Norbo runs an online site shop - check the headers at the top of the main page. He lists pattern headlight fairings and bellypans, mounting kits, and a whole host of goodies both standard and trick.
Personally I wouldn't try and start it if your pistons are seized in the bores, even after freeing off. A proper rebuild now will save heartache further down the line. Use genuine seals and gaskets, or proven aftermarket. Loads of info on here, part numbers etc. We are lucky in that parts are freely available, and the bikes are well supported by a select group of experts - Norbo, Mutts, Arrow, Pjme, who are all on here regularly.

Dusty

[jessy03]

This what you need?

[tucktonite]

Oct 6, 2023 10:01:33 GMT 1 jessy03 said:

This what you need?

yes that's the part, I'm assuming It dog legs out then up. Any dimensions, thickness etc would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

[jessy03]

[stusco]

Join tapatalk for posting pictures

[tucktonite]

Oct 6, 2023 16:03:10 GMT 1 jessy03 said:

Yes, the first picture (top of headstock) would It be possible to take some rough measurements please. Sorry to be a pain.

[jessy03]

Yes no probs I’ll have a look tomorrow 👍

[Shytalk]

Much depends on what you want to achieve really regarding the brakes, many complain that the original ones are poor, others find them okay with braided lines, it’s up to you and your budget ultimately.

Engine - if it’s seized then the sensible / only way is to strip it - you know that if you try starting it then you’ll be emptying the piggy bank more than necessary.

Suspension wise you can get some of the parts readily some not, I’m fairly certain that I have a near perfect H section and dog legs complete.

I think that you need to sit down and work out what you want from the bike, then you’ll be able to make a list of what you need - with some idea of the costs, then decide how best to proceed / start.

I have a bare frame in the garage so should be able to get the measurements of the lower lock stop unless Jessy gets there first.
Is it just the lower one or are both missing?

[tucktonite]

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to rebuild It regardless and I think I'll just use what I have until the other parts pop up and slowly change back to stock as I'm not that imaginitive. I'll leave the engine till last otherwise I tend to lose bits and forget. The measurements are for the top part of the headstock the one that stops the ignition, once I put that on I can move on to getting upset with the powdercoaters.
If you still have the doglegs and the working threaded area isn't pitted, that would be great, let me know how much etc.

I think I'm going to be emptying my wallet at Norbo shop soon, how's best to order without doing his head In?

Cheers for taking the time, It's appreciated.

[freddie19]

I would stick with the F2 front end. I prefer the look of the F2 fender plus you get the added benefit of the fork brace and twin pot calipers.

Best to find yourself a good pair of LC2 stanchions which you fit into the F2 lowers using the LC2 yokes and handlebars.

For even better braking you can easily upgrade to 4 pot calipers from either Triumph or the Yamaha 400 3tj as you can see on my bike in the picture below!

Good luck. 👍

[tucktonite]

Oct 7, 2023 22:21:30 GMT 1 freddie19 said:

I would stick with the F2 front end. I prefer the look of the F2 fender plus you get the added benefit of the fork brace and twin pot calipers.

Best to find yourself a good pair of LC2 stanchions which you fit into the F2 lowers using the LC2 yokes and handlebars.

For even better braking you can easily upgrade to 4 pot calipers from either Triumph or the Yamaha 400 3tj as you can see on my bike in the picture below!

Good luck. 👍

That's a good idea, so the bottoms are the same internally? and just use lc2 stanchions with lc2 springs and internals as they are shorter?. The yokes are already lc2, but not sure what the fitment was like as It was already In bits.

Cheers for the advice.

[freddie19]

Yeah, just use F2 lower fork legs.......everything else LC2 fits.👍

[Shytalk]

Here are some pictures of the top bracket.

I have looked and can't find any dog legs, but I do have the H section complete.

[tucktonite]

Oct 9, 2023 17:00:58 GMT 1 Shytalk said:

Here are some pictures of the top bracket.

I have looked and can't find any dog legs, but I do have the H section complete.

That's me busy this weekend then. Thank you so much for taking the time, much appreciated.

[jon]

What about the width Shytalk ? Looks around 30mm?

Well done for spending the time to answer this.

Jon

[Shytalk]

Oct 11, 2023 20:58:09 GMT 1 jon said:

What about the width Shytalk ? Looks around 30mm?

Well done for spending the time to answer this.

Jon

Spot on Jon, I've added another picture to the original set and it's 30mm