peterb
Weekend rider
Posts: 58
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Post by peterb on Oct 1, 2023 14:02:48 GMT 1
hi are there any reedblocks out there that fit a 4l1 250 as all the ones on ebay seem to be to big what else are the fitted to  |
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Post by bezzer on Oct 1, 2023 14:29:55 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Oct 1, 2023 14:30:13 GMT 1
hi are there any reedblocks out there that fit a 4l1 250 as all the ones on ebay seem to be to big what else are the fitted to Some say KX85 reed blocks fit with minimal fettling. Never tried myself mind. Jon |
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Post by jon on Oct 1, 2023 14:31:55 GMT 1
Does the OP mean the inlet rubbers or the reed valves themselves? Jon |
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Post by bezzer on Oct 1, 2023 14:38:41 GMT 1
Does the OP mean the inlet rubbers or the reed valves themselves? Jon Ah yes of course Jon, my mistake, I should have read his request properly!. Apologies to the O/P 😬 |
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Post by jon on Oct 1, 2023 14:42:44 GMT 1
Does the OP mean the inlet rubbers or the reed valves themselves? Jon Ah yes of course Jon, my mistake, I should have read his request properly!. Apologies to the O/P 😬 No worries. He’d be wise to replace the rubbers you quoted as well if they’ve not been replaced recently. Jon |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 1, 2023 17:36:03 GMT 1
hi are there any reedblocks out there that fit a 4l1 250 as all the ones on ebay seem to be to big what else are the fitted to I know the air cooled Rd250 350 400 reed blocks are same dimensions upto E-F model and will fit straight into an rd250lc / rd350lc. E and F models have plastic reed blocks, that are slightly different, they will also fit as same stud pattern. V384a is the v-force reed for kx80/85 yz80 they are said to fit with minimal fettling. I have some knock off v- force V384a reeds on the way and will report back as soon as they arrive. Item number 314590026061 on ebay cheapest available ATM |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 2, 2023 11:28:07 GMT 1
I am rather impressed Look well made      AND THEY FIT STRAIGHT INTO A STANDARD RD250LC BARREL WITH STANDARD PORTING No mods necessary whatsoever to your barrels But see the other pics in my next post to see that you do need to open up the mounting holes in the reed cage as they are slightly out. |
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Post by jessy03 on Oct 2, 2023 12:43:38 GMT 1
Same as, 900 miles no probs yet 🤔  |
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Post by alankelly on Oct 2, 2023 12:59:06 GMT 1
Yes me too Been fitted since spring with no issues   |
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Post by rigga on Oct 2, 2023 12:59:25 GMT 1
I'm awaiting delivery of the same , looking forward to them now.
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 2, 2023 13:04:19 GMT 1
More pictures       Look at the 2 pictures showing the stud pattern It doesn't quite line up The 4 holes will need to be opened out a little in the reed blocks |
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Post by rigga on Oct 2, 2023 13:31:18 GMT 1
Need to be opened to 11mm I believe to line up.
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Post by alankelly on Oct 2, 2023 15:43:50 GMT 1
For mine I "slotted" the holes with a rattail (round) file, to only remove the material that as required to ensure minimal material was removed
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 2, 2023 15:57:29 GMT 1
I do see one small problem on a very small scale from a tuning point of view.
The original reeds are completely flush.
The reeds in the above picture has a small indentation which will cause eddy's that you don't want for optimal tuning.
I would be thinking about filling that in to make it flush and fully stuffed.
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 2, 2023 16:06:15 GMT 1
I do see one small problem on a very small scale from a tuning point of view. The original reeds are completely flush. The reeds in the above picture has a small indentation which will cause eddy's that you don't want for optimal tuning. I would be thinking about filling that in to make it flush and fully stuffed. Are you referring to the little what looks like an indentation 2nd and 3rd pics from bottom just opposite the v-force logo If you are, then it's just a discolouration in the plastic. If not can you point out what you mean please. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 2, 2023 16:14:04 GMT 1
I am rather impressed Look well made AND THEY FIT STRAIGHT INTO A STANDARD RD250LC BARREL WITH STANDARD PORTING No mods necessary whatsoever to your barrels But see the other pics in my next post to see that you do need to open up the mounting holes in the reed cage as they are slightly out. On the third picture you can see the two pieces fit together flush. Then.if you look at the next part inwards you will see a step. This is the part which will cause an eddy. The aerofoil in the middle is doing its best to create directional flow. The little step is working against this. But as I tried to explain it is more from a super critical point of view. |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 2, 2023 16:26:52 GMT 1
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 2, 2023 16:31:31 GMT 1
Have I addressed the issues you were referring to.
My eyes aren't what they were.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 3, 2023 5:08:52 GMT 1
No I don't think so.
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 3, 2023 7:40:37 GMT 1
I don't undestand what you mean unfortunately. |
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Post by headcoats on Oct 3, 2023 8:00:19 GMT 1
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 3, 2023 8:09:26 GMT 1
Yes that's what I mean. Thanks headcoats.
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Post by alankelly on Oct 3, 2023 8:23:12 GMT 1
If it was an issue you could 3d print an “insert” in PETG or print a complete inner stuffer I had some original Vforce reeds with one of the stuffers missing, so just modelled up a replacement using the single original one then printed it in PETG  |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 3, 2023 8:28:23 GMT 1
Once the ears on the inlets are cut down, they fit inside the reed blocks, making a smooth bore straight through.
There won't be any step when ears cut and manifold rubber inserts into the cage.
The mixture will flow straight through the inlet manifold which has a round exit into the cage matching bore of the cage.
I think you're concern is already taken care of.
The rubber inlet manifold will fit flush once cut providing a smooth bore straight through.
Though I am more than happy for you to point out anything. It's how I have learnt all I know.
1st pic above shows inlet before cutting and you can see that it will slot straight in after cutting.
Hope this clears any confusion.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 3, 2023 8:30:23 GMT 1
I don't understand what you mean unfortunately. Sorry Tony I find it difficult to get the words out sometimes. |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 3, 2023 8:35:44 GMT 1
I don't understand what you mean unfortunately. Sorry Tony I find it difficult to get the words out sometimes. I only wish I knew what you're concern is. I am more than grateful for input from you. |
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mt
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 490
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Post by mt on Oct 3, 2023 10:08:24 GMT 1
I don't understand what you mean unfortunately. Sorry Tony I find it difficult to get the words out sometimes. Do you mean the stepped area between the yellow lines ?  8caef71d3b19a1e54926bd06952c104a by Gary Woodward, on Flickr |
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Post by tony2stroke on Oct 3, 2023 12:55:08 GMT 1
Thanks for that That is the part I am saying is filled with the cut down ears, enough is left after cutting to fill the void and give a smooth transition. I can't see any other step anywhere. Please let me know if I am missing something, only too glad to hear your thoughts. Are my reeds different to others? Is there a fault with mine ? I took it That That is how they are supposed to be and didn't see any fault, taking into account the ears being cut and filling the step outlined by Gary in above picture. |
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Post by alankelly on Oct 3, 2023 13:04:20 GMT 1
Hi all
If somebody can draw up the outline "shape" of the void, and the diameter of the actual intake hole (plus depth) I would be happy to make / print in PETG some "infill plates" FOC for anybody on here that has these reeds (Just cover the post).
I had the same on my Chinese reeds but was not worried about the step, but too lazy to remove to measure if someone can pm me a sketch instead.
Best wishes Al.
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