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Post by 84rzrider on Aug 16, 2023 23:29:39 GMT 1
Greetings
Will I be able to tell if someone put a 4 degree advanced key or key way in an RZ 350 without pulling the rotor checking with a timing light? My Canadian RZ runs too warm for my liking after 20 minutes or so of operation. It gets to 200 indicated on my aftermarket indicator. It doesn't go past 205 and my R1 fan cools it off. I have an aftermarket Chinese radiator and water pump was rebuilt. Plug readings show it is a bit rich if anything. I am running VM28 air cooled RD350 carbs with 290 mains, 30 pilots and the needles all the way rich with Uni Pod filters and it carburetes well. The odd thing about all this is that with the stock radiator (which I replaced 2 days before the Deals Gap meet this year because it leaked ) I never saw temperature above 180. In comparison my other RZ never goes above 180 no matter how hard I run it unless I am setting still in traffic for a prolonged period and the fan cools it off immediately. It has a Koso RX2GP. My other RZ has a stage 1 Spec 2 top end with the head shaved 30 thousandths and Spec 2 modified VM30 carbs.
The Canadian RZ has unknown non stock porting and unknown if the head has been modified. It actually pulls harder than my other RZ. So back to my original question I am trying to figure out if someone modified the timing and if this could cause the engine to run hotter than what I would consider normal? I have since gotten a good stock radiator that I am going to install to see if that cures it. I don't understand why this bike gets what I think is too warm.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 17, 2023 9:06:05 GMT 1
Yeah, I'd try the stock radiator, god knows what the flow across some of these Chinese ones is
The passages can be bigger and the fins not as tightly packed
As for the ignition if it is standard I don't think 4 degrees on the top end would affect it badly, I'm running + 6 degrees 9k and it's fine
But 4 degrees added at say 5k when it's running it's highest advance may be an issue
I don't think on 30 year old electronics a strobe would show 4 degrees difference, by the time you set it up and faff around you could have popped the flywheel off and looked
Steve
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Post by abar121 on Aug 17, 2023 9:06:51 GMT 1
You don't have to pull the rotor. You can check the timing with a light without removing it.
Ideally also use a dial gauge to find 2 degrees BTDC and check that it's firing at this at low revs, using the timing light.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 17, 2023 21:44:21 GMT 1
You don't have to pull the rotor. You can check the timing with a light without removing it. Ideally also use a dial gauge to find 2 degrees BTDC and check that it's firing at this at low revs, using the timing light. Good advice. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 17, 2023 21:46:53 GMT 1
Ah, I was thinking ypvs 🙈
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 17, 2023 21:49:03 GMT 1
So was i
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 17, 2023 22:00:09 GMT 1
So how does the 2mm correlate to the low rev advance on the cdi? Never actually thought about this on a ypvs Steve |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 17, 2023 22:06:16 GMT 1
So how does the 2mm correlate to the low rev advance on the cdi? Never actually thought about this on a ypvs Steve Oh er let me think about this tomorrow when I'm sober. You might be right. |
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Post by 84rzrider on Aug 17, 2023 22:58:13 GMT 1
Thank you gentlemen. I also have a new Zeeltronic PCDI10VT laying on the work bench that we plan on installing when the weather cools off. I am hoping that will help as well. I will be installing the factory radiator this weekend and will report back.
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Post by reedpete on Aug 18, 2023 3:45:54 GMT 1
Do you have a thermostat fitted? it shouldn’t be there on early bikes
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Post by abar121 on Aug 18, 2023 10:45:56 GMT 1
So how does the 2mm correlate to the low rev advance on the cdi? Never actually thought about this on a ypvs Steve Oh er let me think about this tomorrow when I'm sober. You might be right. Hmm, lets see if I've got this right. 2mm BTDC is ~20 degrees on a 350. If a 31k / 48H is at 17 degrees on tickover, that would be 1.45-1.5mm BTDC. |
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Post by 84rzrider on Aug 18, 2023 16:54:05 GMT 1
It is a YVPS. I assume all of them have thermostats. It is an 84 model. I am certain it does as you can see the temperature drop when it opens.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 18, 2023 16:58:05 GMT 1
Does it have a 29k50 cdi fitted?
The reason I ask is that the 83/84 cdi units deteriate. Usually it is a case of intermittent spark but I did have one that would run but bike ran very hot and occasionally would backfire and spit a lot of flame so I assume the timing was way off
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 18, 2023 22:50:48 GMT 1
Yes that's the best way to measure it.
Find TDC mark the block and fly wheel then measure with the strobe and compare to other bike.
If you have a unknown key you will still try and set it to the standard settings but the key will throw it out.
So yes Steve you are correct.
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Post by 84rzrider on Aug 20, 2023 15:23:07 GMT 1
I put the Spec2 pipes on and the stock radiator yesterday afternoon and what a difference. I flogged it pretty hard for 20 miles in 90 degree weather and it never got above 185 except in stop and go traffic. The fan cooled it down immediately. I will know for sure when I take it out on the interstate. It is way better.
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Post by 84rzrider on Sept 4, 2023 1:37:56 GMT 1
Put 50 miles on it on Friday.20 on Saturday. Ran hard 80-90 MPH on curvy back roads and temperature ran 185-190. Took it out on the interstate and it had a burble right at the transition trying to hold steady speed 1/8 to 1/4 throttle in 6th 6200-6500 RPM 70-75 MPH. How dare I try to ride it like a normal motorcycle! Above and below that perfect. Air temperature was 80 degrees. Airscrews are 1.0 turns out VM28 RD350 air-cooled carbs. 290 main jets, needles all the way rich. 30 pilots. So I decided it was lean right at the transition and took the pods off and put the Yboot with the big Uni filter on it as I am already as rich as I can go on the needle and already tried 32.5 pilots before and they made it too rich. I took it out again yesterday and it is better but ran worse after it warmed up, which tells me it was rich not lean. So I turned the airscrews in to 3/4 to confirm it was rich and it got worse. Turned the airscrews out to 1.25 and the burble is nearly gone and moved closer to 1/8 throttle at 60-65 MPH and 6000 RPM. Of course the air temperature was 10 degrees warmer so it wasn't an optimum jetting day. Long story short. I am cautiously optimistic that the cooling issue is solved and this burble can be worked out or not as it is very minor.
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