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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2023 0:44:48 GMT 1
I was looking at getting a tool for rebuilding these calipers and I see that you dont actually need one, but it helps to get the pistons out if they are stuck.
So I figured its better to be forarmed and was looking at getting one, they not expensive but harder to find here in Aus and of course will take ages to get here if i was half way through a brake job...
My question is, which one to get; Alloy, plastic or steel.
On ebay the alloy and plastic version sellers say they dont mark the coloured 'disks', which is great as I assume they are anodised alloy.
But... are the (3D?) plastic ones strong enough to undo and not break (brake?! lol) apart doing so?
In the videos on youtube I see guys using these tools (steel ones?) with electrical tape on them to avoid marking, did they just buy the wrong tool or did they need the extra heft that a steel tool provides?
Interested to know what you guys who have these tools and rebuild these calipers think.
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Post by Robbieben on Feb 7, 2023 8:06:42 GMT 1
I was looking at getting a tool for rebuilding these calipers and I see that you dont actually need one, but it helps to get the pistons out if they are stuck. So I figured its better to be forarmed and was looking at getting one, they not expensive but harder to find here in Aus and of course will take ages to get here if i was half way through a brake job... My question is, which one to get; Alloy, plastic or steel. On ebay the alloy and plastic version sellers say they dont mark the coloured 'disks', which is great as I assume they are anodised alloy. But... are the (3D?) plastic ones strong enough to undo and not break (brake?! lol) apart doing so? In the videos on youtube I see guys using these tools (steel ones?) with electrical tape on them to avoid marking, did they just buy the wrong tool or did they need the extra heft that a steel tool provides? Interested to know what you guys who have these tools and rebuild these calipers think. Jon the inserts can be extremely difficult to shift, once they are cracked off they usually come out ok but I've had to use a 36 inch power bar on my socket to get the initial crack when undoing the threaded insert. Easier to do when fitted to a fork. My socket is steel and as you mentioned i use electrical tape on the thrust side but it can still mark very stubborn inserts. |
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Post by jon on Feb 7, 2023 8:38:23 GMT 1
Would a rattle gun help here?
Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 7, 2023 8:53:17 GMT 1
I have an alloy one
Only stripped one full set of Fazer calipers and didn't leave a mark
From memory something to note is that if you are doing a rear caliper the set up is different
The "blue spot" goes inward, not outward so actually clockwise to remove it
Steve
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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2023 12:42:44 GMT 1
I was looking at getting a tool for rebuilding these calipers and I see that you dont actually need one, but it helps to get the pistons out if they are stuck. So I figured its better to be forarmed and was looking at getting one, they not expensive but harder to find here in Aus and of course will take ages to get here if i was half way through a brake job... My question is, which one to get; Alloy, plastic or steel. On ebay the alloy and plastic version sellers say they dont mark the coloured 'disks', which is great as I assume they are anodised alloy. But... are the (3D?) plastic ones strong enough to undo and not break (brake?! lol) apart doing so? In the videos on youtube I see guys using these tools (steel ones?) with electrical tape on them to avoid marking, did they just buy the wrong tool or did they need the extra heft that a steel tool provides? Interested to know what you guys who have these tools and rebuild these calipers think. Jon the inserts can be extremely difficult to shift, once they are cracked off they usually come out ok but I've had to use a 36 inch power bar on my socket to get the initial crack when undoing the threaded insert. Easier to do when fitted to a fork. My socket is steel and as you mentioned i use electrical tape on the thrust side but it can still mark very stubborn inserts. Wow, that did indeed take some shifting! |
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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2023 12:43:58 GMT 1
Would a rattle gun help here? Jon I dont think so, well not if you want to not mark the anodised alloy, a rattle gun with rattle the tool in the socket back n forth as they often leaves marks from sockets on bolts/nuts etc. |
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Post by JonW on Feb 7, 2023 12:44:14 GMT 1
I have an alloy one Only stripped one full set of Fazer calipers and didn't leave a mark From memory something to note is that if you are doing a rear caliper the set up is different The "blue spot" goes inward, not outward so actually clockwise to remove it Steve Great info cheers m8! |
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