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Post by frogger on Jan 23, 2023 14:47:25 GMT 1
Hi I'm interested in buying a yamaha rd125lc but need advice wot to look out for is the mk1 more reliable then the mk2? which one's better for parts availability I've been told the mk2 can be plagued with wiring problems is this true?any advice please
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Post by Gunny on Jan 23, 2023 19:50:32 GMT 1
They`re basically the same bikes apart from the front ends and wheels. Never heard anyone saying a Mk2 is plagued with wiring problems. I have one of each.
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Post by guiri on Jan 26, 2023 23:03:27 GMT 1
Both great bikes, are you acustomed to riding small two stokes.. the mk1 and uk mk2 has no powervalve making in all or nothing power delivery which some love..some hate.. the mk3 or euro mk2 will have a working powervale if an import and are a lot easier to use/live with. Try and have a ride on each one.. they are very diferent to ride.
Very simple to service and repair, the wiring thing you may have heard of is the mk3 can fry the cdi.. replacement are availble and one from the tzr125 can also be adaped so no longer an issue.
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Post by Norbo on Jan 26, 2023 23:08:55 GMT 1
I prefer the MK2 Just get what you like the look of best is my advice
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finney
L plate rider.
Posts: 18
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Post by finney on Feb 8, 2023 22:29:29 GMT 1
The engine / gearbox parts are all interchangeable without any "noticeable" issues.
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finney
L plate rider.
Posts: 18
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Post by finney on Feb 8, 2023 22:30:27 GMT 1
The engineering is basically the same but as previously said there are differences just not fundamental.
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Post by museumman on Feb 20, 2023 17:10:40 GMT 1
Bikes being sold as "the best you'll find" "restored to perfection" ----but zoom in on the photos, you'll often notice the brake disc is worn beyond the limit 🤦🏻 Being on the limit is common, but a very prominent lip at the top is the giveaway. Then you have to ask, what has been scrimped on elsewhere on the bike. Like the rear wheel drum (I've seen the above mentioned bikes sold by pretend "experts" have oval ones that wobble the brake pedal 🙄) Also zoom in on the brake pedal you'll see "restored" bikes sold with bent ones, or road rash on the edge. If the bikes for sale on Facebook, ask for more photos. If it's on ebay a good seller will use up the 12 photo limit. Ask for photos under the seat. An obliging seller will also provide pics under the tank. You get to se ethe state of the rear shock and air box. Does it still have the snorkel? Ask if the rear shock has good rebound. Easy to test by pushing down hard on seat.
If checking in person, look for exhausts being filled where they got road rash. Check inside of side panels for bodge repairs. (push the front lug out from behind the tank rather than yank on panel)
The 125LC scene has the worst standards in my opinion and I've been a member of about 10 different bike groups or forums related to my collection over the last 20 years. You have to go and look at one of these, there are so many cheapskates trying to make a quick buck. Another giveaway is "comes with new battery and tyres" and the brand is dirt cheap that will last 13 months. The Rear and front footpegs painted instead of plated. The list goes on to the point of recent bikes on ebay being 2 grand overpriced 😡
If you go to the 350 section on this forum, you'll get a good idea of higher standards and jobs done properly. "Big money spent" should mean having the wheels professionally coated and diamond cut, not rattle canned which can peel from oil/grease petrol contact.
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Post by Gunny on Feb 25, 2023 20:54:59 GMT 1
It takes bloody hours to mask and paint a set of wheels you grumpy old bugger. And my pegs are powder coated as well.
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Post by museumman on Feb 25, 2023 21:46:07 GMT 1
It takes bloody hours to mask and paint a set of wheels you grumpy old bugger. And my pegs are powder coated as well. 😎 I trust you wouldn't ask 5 grand for a 125 and claim "it's the best around" ? 👌🏻 🙂 One of my best wheels that had been in the loft 17 years , still had the factory sprocket was damaged by a tyre fitter, was gutted. If I was selling the original bike for that sort of money I'd have had the dings welded and then sent off to be recut.
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Post by Gunny on Feb 25, 2023 23:13:56 GMT 1
Its not the best around, I think I did a pretty good job on it though. Full build thread on me Facebook page. I know what you mean though, some of those people get it painted by a mate that paints cars puts a set of allen bolts in the engine cases and boof 4.5k. Mines got some tiny little dings in the exhaust wouldn`t have dreamed of filling them, surely filler will fall out a hot exhaust ? Its also got loads of stainless bolts, braided line, and wrong indicators so probs only worth £1500 IMG_4971 by Gunny Scotland, on Flickr IMG_5104 by Gunny Scotland, on Flickr It sits better at the back now, was trying a 350 shock
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Post by museumman on Feb 27, 2023 11:09:45 GMT 1
Yeah I've seen your bikes before and explanation of purposely not going mad with originality. It's obvious you did a good job on yours, grab rail and black plastics look very clean or restored properly and a few non standard bits to personal taste or purposeful use. That should go for way more than you'd expect, so insure it for £2500 at least. The seat cover close to original and centre stand being straight stand out for me. That would be worth you getting original indicators for. I have a red original daily runner I put square mini blinkers on, as it's naked so wasn't too bothered with the extra expense, I originally started to break it when they were worth more in parts. I'm still looking for an alternative fairing rubber edging. My last one was genuine Yamaha but you have to buy it for the RD 31K, it's expensive and paying for a longer length than needed.
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Post by Gunny on Feb 28, 2023 20:43:54 GMT 1
The guy did a good job on the seat cover, he made it from scratch its nice thick material as well. I`ve actually got standard indicators for it, I just think they look horrible they stick out so much even worse than a 350. I think its insured for 4k, put the agreed value up when the prices went nuts.
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Post by museumman on Mar 1, 2023 13:23:10 GMT 1
My bikes are insured in the UK for "market value" but the market is all over the place for these. I had a bike on ebay at the end of last year for 4k, it's original and very close to new, but very little interest. This winter a not so well restored one was already up to 3.5 on the bidding. I've a UK frame and cases to build up with quite a lot of NOS parts, then mint parts from Switzerland, I think I'll do an agreed value on that for around 5k (Footman James)
Norbo was also building a MK1 from new parts around 5 years ago and back then we were both thinking 3.5k, I hope he's still got it!!
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