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Post by dave31za on Mar 5, 2022 16:06:34 GMT 1
I picked up a 31K without a battery and there was no negative cable to connect. There are 2 black connectors near the battery. Does the negative of the battery connect to the black wire that goes into the wiring loom or to the 'loose' black wire that comes out underneath?
I had to remove the nose cone and headlight to have the cone repainted. I had to obviously unplug everything. Prior to this all of the electrics (indicators, neutral, horn, oil light etc) were all working. I bought an aftermarket ignition switch to replace the damaged one and I had to wire in an inline fuse to replace the main fuse as the connector in the fuse box was broken.
My tank and panels are off at the panelbeaters for repairs and respraying while I am cleaning but now I have an electrical problem.. The power valve would intermittently initiate when I turned the key on but that has also packed up now.
I have a (very) basic understanding of electrics and a Fluke tester. I am getting 12.79 volts at the battery and the same voltage to the main fuse. I am only getting .6 volts to the ignition switch input when I measure. I have checked all of the connectors and they are all in securely and the right wayaround.
So I am stuck.... any suggestions?
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Post by zig on Mar 5, 2022 16:43:38 GMT 1
You would get better help from us all if you could post some pictures  ZiG |
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Post by JonW on Mar 5, 2022 23:36:26 GMT 1
When you switch on does the neural light flicker or stay solid while the PVs intermittently cycle? if so its usually a fuse issue.
As for the cable, trace back with the tester the blacks in the loom against the wiring diagram.
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Post by dave31za on Mar 7, 2022 9:49:46 GMT 1
Hi Jon
Is completely dead! The powervalve doesn't even cycle anymore. The bike does start but no power to anything....
So my first question regarding the negative battery connection? Into the loom or to the loose connector?
Thanks again.
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Post by Yogi on Mar 7, 2022 10:12:16 GMT 1
Connect the battery into the loom wire,although all blacks are earths
Matt 🐻
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Post by Yogi on Mar 7, 2022 10:15:56 GMT 1
Can you not try with the old ignition switch as some are wired differently ?
Are the ignition connecter blocks and loom the same colour,eg white or red?
Matt
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Post by dave31za on Mar 7, 2022 12:52:53 GMT 1
Can you not try with the old ignition switch as some are wired differently ? Are the ignition connecter blocks and loom the same colour,eg white or red? Matt Thanks Matt.... yes I reused the bottom half of the switch. The one I bought was just the physical barrel into which the original Yamaha bottom screws in. WIll have to get out into the garage a little later after I have finished work.. |
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Post by dave31za on Mar 7, 2022 18:18:19 GMT 1
I have checked and cleaned up the connectors... battery negative to the thicker of the two black connectors. There is an empty black connector up near the CDI? It looks dusty inside as if it has never been used? flic.kr/p/2n7oHjfflic.kr/p/2n7qduyChecked all of the connectors in the headlight area and they look ok. There are a number of double black connectors which I have connected the indicators to and a single black for the parking light negative... But still no power to anything :-( |
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Post by abar121 on Mar 7, 2022 18:34:09 GMT 1
Sorry, not sure if that black connector is for the self canceling indicators, or where the battery lead neg terminal would plug into.
Any pictures of the postive lead?
Check each fuse. Remove them, clean and put back. I just had similar and one had blown.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Mar 7, 2022 19:13:25 GMT 1
I think you need to start by cleaning all those push in connectors first. 0.6v at the ignition would suggest blown fuse or broken wire, as you have 12v the other side? Also those Yelow connectors, are for far bigger cables than they are fitted to now, I'd also replace these if possible, only to ensure a better connection.
What's the CDI box? never seen one of those before. Looks to have been opened at some point but doubt it's causing the main issue. (aahh just googled Imex)
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Post by dave31za on Mar 7, 2022 20:35:55 GMT 1
I have cleaned the connectors near the battery with sandpaper so they are nice and shiny. The yellow connectors are what I used as I didn't have the original connectors. I am getting 12 volts to the main fuse so the power is going from the battery to the main fuse....
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Post by JonW on Mar 7, 2022 23:57:24 GMT 1
Can you not try with the old ignition switch as some are wired differently ? Are the ignition connecter blocks and loom the same colour,eg white or red? Matt Thanks Matt.... yes I reused the bottom half of the switch. The one I bought was just the physical barrel into which the original Yamaha bottom screws in. WIll have to get out into the garage a little later after I have finished work.. Have you used a tester to prove that the switch works? check the wiring diagram as it lists what is connected to what when you turn the key and make sure it does do what it says it will. The reason i say this is that you could have something amiss with the old / new switch and its not pushing the contacts properly. |
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Post by JonW on Mar 8, 2022 0:05:28 GMT 1
Ive also not seen the Imex repair before, but this year (83/4) of CDI is problematical, better to move to the later 52Y-50 with a small loom or a Zeel or Iggy.
I do think this is a more obvious failure. If you switch on and nothing happens its not going thru the switch and that means a small amount of loom to search for a break.
Dont quote me*, but I also think you can switch the bike on without the CDI fitted and still get a neutral light (if its in neutral), since you dont have that Id be looking at the main fuse and the switch... id suspect the switch first. I always suspect the switches over the fuses, but most other people go the other way... I think its what youve seen more of when working on old bikes lol.
* - were having so much torrential rain here that im not keen to head out to my garage and check this, sorry.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 8, 2022 9:16:14 GMT 1
Just reread through this
Everything should work with the cdi disconnected
I'd suspect the switch. You say aftermarket. I have tried fitting aftermarket wiring to a genuine switch so the reverse of you but it didn't work
The orientation of the positions on the key were slightly out compared to the original so would not work correctly
Was something daft like the park lights wouldn't work. As you are the opposite it may show as a different problem
Try a totally different complete switch
Steve
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Post by dave31za on Mar 9, 2022 10:38:06 GMT 1
I found that the aftermarket inline fuse holder wasn't working properly. Bought if from the local version of Halfords. Was getting power in to it but the connection after the fuse was useless. So bypassed that and now the 15 amp fuse for the indicators keeps blowing. I disconnected all of the indicators, the indicator switch and the rear brake light before I ran out of fuses..... only the front brake light to disconnect now.
Also unwrapped the wiring loom and found that a number of earth's had been soldered together and taped up.... so someone had had a hack at it sometime in the past.
Is there an actual place on the frame where there is a physical negative connection that I can check and clean?
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Post by element137 on Mar 9, 2022 11:31:46 GMT 1
I am no expert on this - but I believe the bolt at the bottom of the coil is an physical negative ?- see pic below-  |
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Post by Shytalk on Mar 9, 2022 13:15:21 GMT 1
Those earth connections you've made aren't too clever, although that won't be the cause of your problem, and the main earth point to the frame is as pictured in the above post - under the coil unit, also ALL the earths are linked up throughout the loom.
I would say that the replacement switch is the issue, by-pass it to prove.
It is also worth checking that the fuses are intact, try twisting the metal ends slightly, if they revolve or come off then they are useless and need replacing too.
You don't need anything connected really to check what you are looking at, loom, battery, switch.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Mar 9, 2022 17:31:33 GMT 1
Glad the main supply issue is sorted. Are the indicators still original and all have bullet connectors fitted and plugged into the loom, or is it possible someone's connected an earth to the frame and crossed the flasher wire.
Try by elimination, unplug all indicators and plug one at a time back in, until the fuse blows.
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Post by dave31za on Mar 10, 2022 19:14:27 GMT 1
Found that the ignition switch is the main problem. Unplugged it and linked the first two blocks as indicated on the wiring diagram I found and now at least I have some lights but nothing else..... looks like the third pair of terminals on the plug are only for the parking lights?
Still waiting for the bloody panelbeaters to get my tank and panels back so I can get the bike reassembled. Am leaving SA to come home on Sunday night and want to try and get everything back together and some adverts up.
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