mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 22, 2022 22:06:55 GMT 1
www.flickr.com/photos/195092056@N08/shares/A5PL3bWhen I posted a pic of my bike on fb I had folks,who are probably on here too, saying it’s a bitsa. That’s fine but nobody can tell me the differences as to what I have compared to a 31k. Wrong parts were complete front end, Headlamp and bracket, seat panels,tank and clocks. Other than the clocks which is obvious I’m struggling to see any difference to the pics of 31ks I’ve seen and been sent. Can someone help me “spot the difference “? mainly for if I need parts but would be good to know.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 22, 2022 22:29:20 GMT 1
Only looking on my phone so no great detail but all I see is a 31k lc2 with the headlamp fairing and bracket removed, clocks changed to later type and universal headlight brackets fitted (oh and the headlight is a euro one so points the wrong way)
Bodywork is 31k in 1984 colours
I take it is an import? Do the numbers match (only asking as you say you have been told it's a bitsa)
What's the first 5 digits of the frame and engine numbers?
Are the barrels 31k or 1ua?
Does it still have a mechanical tacho drive? It's on the rear of the top engine case below the carbs
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 22, 2022 22:31:33 GMT 1
Oh and the front muddy is in 83 colours
Is it registered 83 or 84
Do the fork legs have a narrower section between the top and bottom yoke where the headlight clamps are?
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 22, 2022 22:32:40 GMT 1
Indicators are 85
Steve
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Post by jessy03 on Feb 22, 2022 22:39:33 GMT 1
As Steve says, mine below apart from the front brakes and mirrors it’s pretty standard  |
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Post by jessy03 on Feb 22, 2022 22:41:53 GMT 1
I wouldn’t worry as long as it’s rides and stops ok, just enjoy it
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 22, 2022 22:54:39 GMT 1
Either would I
Back in the day mine was an 83 lc2 bike, no top fairing, 84 lc2 tank, 83 lc2 muddy and 85 f1 sides and tail and 85 n1 seat
Couldn't have cared less, couldn't even tell you if it was matching numbers, would never have thought to look
Steve
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Post by reedpete on Feb 22, 2022 23:07:57 GMT 1
The only matching numbers I was aware of back in the day was what the speedo said and what the magistrate had written down…
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Post by veg on Feb 22, 2022 23:09:42 GMT 1
Great looking bike. As above just enjoy it and don’t worry about any non std bits. You’ll always find people that will pick faults in a bike, says more about them than your good taste and ultimately you’ve a fine looking bike.
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Post by reedpete on Feb 22, 2022 23:31:21 GMT 1
Mike, you are well founded to feel miffed if people are using the term bitza… used far to often on FB I’m afraid…your bike is substantially still looks LC2 just with altered clock and headlight arrangement. That’s far from bitza in my book….
I have one project I’m minded to build up something quite like this…essentially LC2 but with 4L0 clocks n headlight . Practical solutions for a practical bike.
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Post by JonW on Feb 22, 2022 23:33:57 GMT 1
The headlamp is normally fitted to a bracket that also holds the clocks, these are now harder to find so someone has used some aftermarket brackets off the forks to hold the headlight. The same bracket holds the clocks which yours are from a later model (or a TZR etc). Check the parts book (download from rd350lc.net) and you can see whats what.
The forks and bodywork are from the correct model but i guess could be from a different year. indicators are the 86-on versions, easily swapped.
Its hardly a full on 'bitsa'. Sure its not all from one year but it looks 98% to be from a Yamaha YPVS and mostly from 83/4 which is the right model.
If you were looking for a mint 'factory fresh' bike then you have some work to do, if you want a bike to ride and enjoy then youre already there.
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 23, 2022 7:25:06 GMT 1
Only looking on my phone so no great detail but all I see is a 31k lc2 with the headlamp fairing and bracket removed, clocks changed to later type and universal headlight brackets fitted (oh and the headlight is a euro one so points the wrong way) Bodywork is 31k in 1984 colours I take it is an import? Do the numbers match (only asking as you say you have been told it's a bitsa) What's the first 5 digits of the frame and engine numbers? Are the barrels 31k or 1ua? Does it still have a mechanical tacho drive? It's on the rear of the top engine case below the carbs Steve It’s a German import, I’ll check the numbers and tach drive later and post back |
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 23, 2022 7:27:16 GMT 1
I wouldn’t worry as long as it’s rides and stops ok, just enjoy it I will mate,thanks |
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 23, 2022 7:33:37 GMT 1
The headlamp is normally fitted to a bracket that also holds the clocks, these are now harder to find so someone has used some aftermarket brackets off the forks to hold the headlight. The same bracket holds the clocks which yours are from a later model (or a TZR etc). Check the parts book (download from rd350lc.net) and you can see whats what. The forks and bodywork are from the correct model but i guess could be from a different year. indicators are the 86-on versions, easily swapped. Its hardly a full on 'bitsa'. Sure its not all from one year but it looks 98% to be from a Yamaha YPVS and mostly from 83/4 which is the right model. If you were looking for a mint 'factory fresh' bike then you have some work to do, if you want a bike to ride and enjoy then youre already there. I was just looking for a nice bike to ride. Not worried that it’s not 100%. Maybe I’ll put it right in time, maybe not, I like it the way it is, but for now I’m just getting it ready to enjoy this summer. I’ll check the bits I’ve been advised to later and post back👍 |
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Post by arrdy350 on Feb 23, 2022 7:49:32 GMT 1
As said by the others above it looks like a very nice bike. Enjoy riding it in the summer 👍
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Post by rigga on Feb 23, 2022 8:01:27 GMT 1
The headlamp is normally fitted to a bracket that also holds the clocks, these are now harder to find so someone has used some aftermarket brackets off the forks to hold the headlight. The same bracket holds the clocks which yours are from a later model (or a TZR etc). Check the parts book (download from rd350lc.net) and you can see whats what. The forks and bodywork are from the correct model but i guess could be from a different year. indicators are the 86-on versions, easily swapped. Its hardly a full on 'bitsa'. Sure its not all from one year but it looks 98% to be from a Yamaha YPVS and mostly from 83/4 which is the right model. If you were looking for a mint 'factory fresh' bike then you have some work to do, if you want a bike to ride and enjoy then youre already there. I was just looking for a nice bike to ride. Not worried that it’s not 100%. Maybe I’ll put it right in time, maybe not, I like it the way it is, but for now I’m just getting it ready to enjoy this summer. I’ll check the bits I’ve been advised to later and post back👍 Then you are in exactly the position you wanted to be, a very nice bike to zip around on, in future you can change bits if you want to, its not essential, its your bike and you can do as YOU please. Too much emphasis at times is placed on original standard, and mint bikes, its where the perceived money is, but when we had these bikes originally, hardly any were like that, they were ridden as intended and enjoyed, things were changed for many reasons, taste, to be different, and the usual one, when things got broken and funds were tight .... take no notice of FB, its full of t**ts, you've a great bike, so enjoy it. |
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 23, 2022 9:03:28 GMT 1
I think I'd be well happy with that, apart from the fairing/clock issue, it looks pretty standard, maybe it had a 'little fall' sometime in it's life?
It's rather shiny in the pics, has it just been washed or covered in silicone spray?
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Post by 29davyt on Feb 23, 2022 10:07:27 GMT 1
Just ride it and enjoy it buddy, my LC isn’t original, isn’t standard, isn’t mint or pristine, I use the bloody thing that’s what I bought it for ..👍
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Post by Norbo on Feb 23, 2022 12:31:43 GMT 1
Its an LC simple just with standard non uk paint work on it but still and lc 2
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 23, 2022 13:25:39 GMT 1
I think I'd be well happy with that, apart from the fairing/clock issue, it looks pretty standard, maybe it had a 'little fall' sometime in it's life? It's rather shiny in the pics, has it just been washed or covered in silicone spray? Silicone spritz 😂😂 well spotted |
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Post by Robbieben on Feb 23, 2022 14:21:29 GMT 1
A lovely looking bike to enjoy in the coming good weather, ignore those that pull it to bits as being different, they are not worth your time or effort to bother with in my humble opinion. I have owned in excess of 40 bikes over the years, none have been factory standard, none ever will be. If I want to change something to suit me I do as every other real rider does. The only people that moan that "It isn't standard" are those that aren't real motorcyclists. Ignore them and enjoy your bike.  |
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 23, 2022 18:30:22 GMT 1
There’s nothing wrong with that, a few bits different from a standard LC2 but essentially its an LC2, the barrels are the correct 31K ones, and the indicators are from a later model as already mentioned, same with the clocks, a bit harsh to say its a BITSA for sure.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 23, 2022 22:24:40 GMT 1
If it was mine I'd be chuffed to bits.
Alex
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 26, 2022 15:08:57 GMT 1
Only looking on my phone so no great detail but all I see is a 31k lc2 with the headlamp fairing and bracket removed, clocks changed to later type and universal headlight brackets fitted (oh and the headlight is a euro one so points the wrong way) Bodywork is 31k in 1984 colours I take it is an import? Do the numbers match (only asking as you say you have been told it's a bitsa) What's the first 5 digits of the frame and engine numbers? Are the barrels 31k or 1ua? Does it still have a mechanical tacho drive? It's on the rear of the top engine case below the carbs Steve Engine starts 31k08 Frame is31k04 www.flickr.com/photos/195092056@N08/shares/82824c Is the tach dive blanked off? |
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Feb 26, 2022 15:21:37 GMT 1
Out for 1st time today, absolutely fantastic😁.
It seems a bit smoky til you cane it, it goes away but then comes back when toddling around town
Starts no problem, idles spot on pulls really smoothly. Has a leak at the exhaust where the pipe joins the bracket that bolts to the barrel, overall very happy😃
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Post by stusco on Feb 26, 2022 15:27:07 GMT 1
Looks like the tacho is plugged with wood
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 26, 2022 16:29:49 GMT 1
Only looking on my phone so no great detail but all I see is a 31k lc2 with the headlamp fairing and bracket removed, clocks changed to later type and universal headlight brackets fitted (oh and the headlight is a euro one so points the wrong way) Bodywork is 31k in 1984 colours I take it is an import? Do the numbers match (only asking as you say you have been told it's a bitsa) What's the first 5 digits of the frame and engine numbers? Are the barrels 31k or 1ua? Does it still have a mechanical tacho drive? It's on the rear of the top engine case below the carbs Steve Engine starts 31k08 Frame is31k04 www.flickr.com/photos/195092056@N08/shares/82824c Is the tach dive blanked off? Glad you've got it and it's running well With those numbers you have a German 1984 31k lc2 bike with a 1985 N model engine The tacho drive is blanked off as standard on them and there is no drive mechanism inside You can fit one but you need to split the crank cases to get the drive shaft in. This will be why you have later clocks fitted. Would be interesting to know which loom and cdi are fitted Both the original bike and the engine you have fitted were restricted 50hp versions The good news is although the carbs and pipes are marked 31w the only difference is jetting and a washer at the manifold end of the exhaust These are most likely removed long ago As for the smoking around town and start up there are a few things to check First check the pump set up to check it is correct. They can be adjusted or fitted wrong. The cable should go under the spring leg on the pulley. Also if it has a pattern throttle cable most are too short at the oil pump so don't let the pump close Also when the pulley is in the closed position check that the pulley has slid back forward as they can be sticky and hold the pump on a longer stroke Non return valve can have crud in them so the oil syphons into the engine when standing or on high vacuum (small throttle openings) Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 26, 2022 16:31:31 GMT 1
Arrow on here is the man for pump refurb
Steve
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Mar 12, 2022 22:52:32 GMT 1
Oh and the front muddy is in 83 colours Is it registered 83 or 84 Do the fork legs have a narrower section between the top and bottom yoke where the headlight clamps are? Steve [br No, forks are same all the way up It’s registered as 1984 |
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mmikee
Weekend rider
Posts: 54
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Post by mmikee on Mar 12, 2022 22:58:09 GMT 1
Glad you've got it and it's running well With those numbers you have a German 1984 31k lc2 bike with a 1985 N model engine The tacho drive is blanked off as standard on them and there is no drive mechanism inside You can fit one but you need to split the crank cases to get the drive shaft in. This will be why you have later clocks fitted. Would be interesting to know which loom and cdi are fitted Both the original bike and the engine you have fitted were restricted 50hp versions The good news is although the carbs and pipes are marked 31w the only difference is jetting and a washer at the manifold end of the exhaust These are most likely removed long ago As for the smoking around town and start up there are a few things to check First check the pump set up to check it is correct. They can be adjusted or fitted wrong. The cable should go under the spring leg on the pulley. Also if it has a pattern throttle cable most are too short at the oil pump so don't let the pump close Also when the pulley is in the closed position check that the pulley has slid back forward as they can be sticky and hold the pump on a longer stroke Non return valve can have crud in them so the oil syphons into the engine when standing or on high vacuum (small throttle openings) Steve Checked pump setting and found this. www.flickr.com/photos/195092056@N08/shares/bM93bcAs you can see the cable is slack and the pump doesn’t move when you turn the throttle,but it takes up the slack. I can’t move the pump at all. Looks like this is my smoking problem. I’ve just this week booked the pump into arrow for a rebuild but that’ll be about 9 months. Is there anything I can do myself or do I need to buy another pump if I want to use it in the mean time? |
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