jam911
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 376
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Post by jam911 on Aug 1, 2021 17:30:25 GMT 1
So I fitted a new master cylinder today and was going to reverse bleed the brakes with a syringe and tube.
When I fitted the tube over the bleed valve I couldn't get and fluid to flow in to the master cylinder.
What am I doing wrong please?
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Post by oldelsieboy on Aug 1, 2021 17:39:22 GMT 1
So I fitted a new master cylinder today and was going to reverse bleed the brakes with a syringe and tube. When I fitted the tube over the bleed valve I couldn't get and fluid to flow in to the master cylinder. What am I doing wrong please? Did you undo the bleed nipple? OEB |
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Post by Chewie01 on Aug 1, 2021 17:40:39 GMT 1
You'll need to pull the brake lever in a small amount to open the valve.
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jam911
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 376
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Post by jam911 on Aug 1, 2021 17:54:11 GMT 1
Yes I did undo the nipple but I didn't pull the lever to open the valve.
Will give it a go.
Thanks
Loving the forum !!
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Post by abar121 on Aug 1, 2021 19:11:31 GMT 1
There should be a tiny hole in the master cylinder, for the fluid to flow freely when the brakes are not applied.
I know it's a new one, maybe there is some crap in there.
I usually just gravity bleed them, or use a syringe suck the fluid through the caliper bleed valve.
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busby
Weekend rider
RD 350 4l0
Posts: 87
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Post by busby on Aug 1, 2021 21:21:32 GMT 1
Certainly use a syringe and a tube at the calipre nipple and pull the fluid thtough. Once done tie the brake lever tight to the throttle grip and leave over night.
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Post by tacky1 on Aug 2, 2021 6:38:28 GMT 1
Pull it through is a lot easier than pushing, Fill the res and open the bleed screw and pull it though, Then do the traditional pump and hold on the lever, Zip tie over night and they are solid...
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Post by steve63 on Aug 2, 2021 12:48:07 GMT 1
If you have a compressor the pneumatic brake bleeder are brilliant. I struggled for hours to do my RGV front brakes, new lines, everything dry, with the brake bleeder it was a 30 second job. It cost me about £20.
I would recommend everyone who plays with motorbikes to have a compressor. If you have buy one of the brake bleeders. If you don't try one of the above solutions.
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Post by chrisg on Aug 2, 2021 14:34:24 GMT 1
If you have a compressor the pneumatic brake bleeder are brilliant. I struggled for hours to do my RGV front brakes, new lines, everything dry, with the brake bleeder it was a 30 second job. It cost me about £20. I would recommend everyone who plays with motorbikes to have a compressor. If you have buy one of the brake bleeders. If you don't try one of the above solutions. What make/model did you purchase? |
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Post by abar121 on Aug 2, 2021 16:56:49 GMT 1
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Post by bare on Aug 2, 2021 17:07:36 GMT 1
Have used 2oz disposable syringes to reverse bleed brakes since 1985..
It simply works.
Sometimes a bit of plumber's teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder (to stop pressure leaks during bleeding) is needed.
That said .. I last week rebuilt all the calipers and fitted SS braided lines to my Pore old Saab.
All fluid drained in process for the week that it took me.
Actually dreaded the filling, flushin and subsequent bleeding of the system.
Syringes, fluid , mop up rags etc. at the ready (ABS systems can be rascals)
Tried the classic pump the pedal / bleed the brakes routine.. as a start point.
It Worked ! Instantly and easily. Gob smacked at just how quick and easy it was.
Pedal is now Rock hard (braided lines :-).
Sometimes the expectation of a problem ...is the biggest obstacle.
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Post by 4l04ever on Aug 2, 2021 18:15:05 GMT 1
I use a vacuum brake bleeder.
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Post by chrisg on Aug 2, 2021 22:41:08 GMT 1
I've always managed with a syringe, but I have a compressor so maybe look into purchasing a vacuum bleeder. A man can't have enough tools.
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Post by looey on Aug 3, 2021 11:36:33 GMT 1
I've always used a Syringe but always pull the fluid down.
Problem with reverse bleed on anything other than a new spit clean system is, you're potentially pushing crap back up to the master cylinder and the tiny return hole gets blocked easy at the best of times.
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Post by Chewie01 on Aug 3, 2021 12:46:12 GMT 1
I upgraded my F2 front brakes recently with Triumph callipers, Venhill brake lines and a Brembo master cylinder.
I bled the brakes using the conventional method with a bit of pipe on the blead nipples and a spanner. It took a while to complete, but most of the air was removed by repeatedly 'flicking the lever' a small amount to let the air bubble out of the top, and then complete the process by the usual technique of undo nipple, pull lever, tighten nipple, release lever.
It probably takes longer with this method, but it works just fine and no special tools are required.
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Post by steve63 on Aug 3, 2021 12:53:21 GMT 1
If you have a compressor the pneumatic brake bleeder are brilliant. I struggled for hours to do my RGV front brakes, new lines, everything dry, with the brake bleeder it was a 30 second job. It cost me about £20. I would recommend everyone who plays with motorbikes to have a compressor. If you have buy one of the brake bleeders. If you don't try one of the above solutions. What make/model did you purchase? The bleeder is a Sealey one. I'm at work right now so I can't look at it but looking at some pictures it looks like the VS020. It took a lot longer to take it out of the box and assemble it then it did to bleed the three calipers on the RGV. The compressor is the best kind you can get. It was something I cobled together from stuff I pulled out of the skip at work so the only cost was £20 or so for a cut-out switch. My eldest lad who's not into bikes pulled one of those little self contained ones out of a skip at his place, good lad. The regulator was broken so I removed it. It just means the supply air is at full receiver pressure which isn't a problem. |
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Post by steve63 on Aug 3, 2021 13:04:02 GMT 1
I upgraded my F2 front brakes recently with Triumph callipers, Venhill brake lines and a Brembo master cylinder. I bled the brakes using the conventional method with a bit of pipe on the blead nipples and a spanner. It took a while to complete, but most of the air was removed by repeatedly 'flicking the lever' a small amount to let the air bubble out of the top, and then complete the process by the usual technique of undo nipple, pull lever, tighten nipple, release lever. It probably takes longer with this method, but it works just fine and no special tools are required. My RGV reservoir, mastercylinder, lines and calipers were all bone dry. I must have spent an hour or more trying to get some fluid to run through it all. I flicked the lever dozens of times and even left it overnight. A call to my mate and an hour later he brought me the Sealey kit over. Five seconds with it connected I had got further on then all the messing about before it. I think it depends how much fluid is in the system and where in the system it is. A bone dry system will be the worst case. Having a remote reservoir like the RGV doesn't help either. Once you start taking things apart to get fluid to run you risk getting fluid all over the place. |
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jam911
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 376
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Post by jam911 on Aug 4, 2021 21:21:22 GMT 1
Sucked the fluid through with a syringe.
Worked a treat.
Thanks chaps
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