Gear Lever linkage.

[philmill]

I see Norbo does a nice billet gear lever and a stainless steel connecting rod but are there any options for the bit with the spline?? seems a shame to have those all nice then use the butt ugly Yamaha splined part. One of the last bits on my shopping list now.

Oh, another question, any recommend somebody for hydro-dipping? I cant buy carbon frame infills now so would like to send the Yamaha ones off to be carbon Hydro- dipped.

Thanks, Phil

[veg]

Phil can’t help re gear linkage but if you drop Johnny user name Peddrotzr a pm he is Mr Carbon I would think he will know.

I’ve just realised carbon hydro dipping isn’t the same thing 😁 ignore me . Dooh

[midlifecrisisrd]

The original gear change arm is still available and I don't think it looks that bad

Just bought the arm, SS rod and the billet lever this week

Steve

[philmill]

Mar 17, 2021 19:27:19 GMT 1 midlifecrisisrd said:

The original gear change arm is still available and I don't think it looks that bad

Just bought the arm, SS rod and the billet lever this week

Steve

I guess a new one is a better option than my scabby old one   How's the billet arm Steve, looks good??

Phil

[midlifecrisisrd]

Yes looks really nice.

Had to buy an extra long pivot bolt too so all adds up

Don't tell norbo but he sells the arm a lot cheaper than Yam is charging 🙊

Steve

[Tobyjugs]

You can also find other spline pieces in aluminium from other bikes that will fit.
Dusty used a nice R6 piece in one of his builds

[mouse]

Hey Phil

anything like this?

Mouse

[philmill]

Mar 17, 2021 22:38:07 GMT 1 mouse said:

Hey Phil

anything like this?

Mouse

Hi Mouse, what’s that off? Looks ideal. A lot nicer than the Yam part.

Phil

[JonW]

you can also retro fit a better joint to the old ones... from halfway down I do this here:

www.2smoked.com/Talking_Shop_-_Wicked_CNC_Gear_Lever.html

[mouse]

Hi Phil

it is a generic part and i got it from www.reactiveparts.com/

Have a scout around the website under footrest spares, it is made by 'Lightech'

HTH
Mouse

[dusty350]

Hi Phil
Regards the dipping, I picked up a leaflet at Kempton auto jumble a couple of years back for a firm localish to me. I've never used them or had it done, but they have a website and Faceache page - may be useful ;

20210318_070205 by dusty miller, on Flickr

20210318_070215 by dusty miller, on Flickr

Dusty

[steve63]

I bought a complete linkage off Norbo. My original isn't too bad to be honest but has some gravel rash on the mushroomed end that the rubber fits over. I need one more anyway. I've been thinking about it and about making an all stainless one as near to the original as possible. It's all quite straight forward with laser profiling, a lathe and the rose joints are available. The bit that stumps me is the splined part. I have no idea how splines are machined and how expensive it is. What I need to do is have the part profiled and talk to one of the machine shops we use to get an idea of cost. It's maybe inside diameter, outside diameter and number of splines?

[Gitram]

get onto youtube, Alan Millyard made one for his honda six cylinder bike, part 4 i think, drilled a few holes in a bit of alloy, turned down an old splined shaft then pressed it in to form the splines.. easy really.. ahem..

marti

[Dave B]

I know telling you the name doesn't help much, but that's a process called 'Broaching" You can make a light duty broach by taking an old splined shaft and shaping it so that the leading edges of the splines become cutting edges. The easiest way would be to centre bore the shaft, and then use a countersink cutter to make an internal cone shape. That would make the splines sharp enough to cut ally. I know I've done that, but I've no idea what I did it on!

[headcoats]

Mushroom Farm LOL
Must have had a few for inspiration for the designs !

[steve63]

Mar 18, 2021 10:26:47 GMT 1 Dave B said:

I know telling you the name doesn't help much, but that's a process called 'Broaching" You can make a light duty broach by taking an old splined shaft and shaping it so that the leading edges of the splines become cutting edges. The easiest way would be to centre bore the shaft, and then use a countersink cutter to make an internal cone shape. That would make the splines sharp enough to cut ally. I know I've done that, but I've no idea what I did it on!

I've had a look and yes that looks like how it is done. I have no means of welding aluminium at home or work and we go through a lot of stainless here at work. machine shops are not too keen on 316L stainless. It wears and breaks tools too much for them. An alternative would be steel then plate it but we don't do a lot of mild steel.