Oil pump set up

[pigboy]

Hi trying to work out how to set the oil pump up on my F2 , the Haynes manual isn’t very clear anyone got a decent write up or photo thanks

[stusco]

Jan 3, 2021 14:02:22 GMT 1 pigboy said:

Hi trying to work out how to set the oil pump up on my F2 , the Haynes manual isn’t very clear anyone got a decent write up or photo thanks

Hi Stuart, your oil will be with you shortly, plus all the other items you paid me for. Please let me know when it arrives safely. Here is your advice note;

Please find enclosed one Yamaha oil pump which I have completely dis-assembled, cleaned, reworked where necessary, checked, re-built and tested. It should now provide you with many more years of trouble free service.

I have marked the pump yellow (for the RD 350LC/YPVS) in the correct place. This is to original Yamaha standard. The minimum stroke has been carefully set to 0.010" (0.25mm); this is standard. Do not allow the gap to go below 0.008” (but this will take a long time). However, you should check the gap occasionally in line with the normal service intervals; (every 2000 miles according to Yamaha, for most models); although it’s highly unlikely the gap will have changed in that time.

You will see on the pulley where I have put on a small white paint mark. This is the place where you will have to pull the spring out just enough to get the cable in properly. Fit the cable first then use a small screwdriver to pull the spring out just enough to allow the cable to fit into the bottom of the pulley. Do not allow the spring end to come out of the hole completely or you may have to take the pulley off to get it back in again. Make sure the spring end is pushed back in all the way. Keep the pulley lubricated with a quick squirt of spray grease once a month or so, if not it is prone to sticking and wear. This is also recommended by Yamaha, although not many people are aware of this.

Fit the outlet pipes to the pump before fitting the pump to the bike (much easier). Make sure the pipes are retained with the correct clips/collets at both ends. It helps to put a smear of oil or grease around the ends of the pipes to help the retainers slide into place. This will squeeze out later and the pipes will be held securely. It is not necessary to use any additional sealant on any of the oil pump gaskets, as this can also find its way into the pump and block the narrow oil passages; I have seen one pump destroyed by silicon sealant! Make sure you have the small thrust washer fitted to the end of the worm shaft, secured with a dab of grease to prevent it falling off as the pump is pushed back on. Do not use any undue pressure to force the pump back on. When the worm stub is lined up correctly with the corresponding bore in the pump the latter should slide on easily with just the lightest of pressure felt - as the worm meshes with the main gear, and then rotates it slightly.

I would suggest making up a litre of pre-mix, (50:1 will be fine) to run the motor while you are bleeding the outlet pipes (the pulley should be held right down towards the pump body for this) you will know they are bled properly, when the motor smokes like a train on both cylinders. The r/h will bleed through first, followed by the l/h due to the different lengths of the outlet pipes. Then just fill the fuel tank with petrol and all will be well. Check the pulley is adjusted correctly via the cable; you can use the top mark on the pulley (at the full throttle position) with confidence , we have also discussed this over the phone. Take out the bleed screw again from the pump body after the engine has run for a short while as air can get trapped in the teeth of the main gear (and other places) if the pump has been off the bike, (as this one has). Note; the bleed screw (which is also a genuine Yamaha part) has a #2 Phillips head, not pozidrive. Secondary bleeding is much easier with the motor up to full temperature when all the pipework is nice and warm. Check the tightness of the bleed screw after two weeks as the washer bed’s in, and may need another ‘nip’. Also re-check the two screws that hold the pump on to the engine case. Note; these are correctly fitted without washers.

I would strongly recommend fitting new outlet pipes if you are in any doubt about their condition (the correct spec. black pipe is still available from Yamaha) they can go brittle over time and this can lead to them not sealing properly, especially if they have been disturbed. This is particularly bad news at the pump end as the motor will suck air through playing havoc with the accurate metering of the oil. You will generally not see a leak here due to there being a constant vacuum in the pipes when the engine is running.

Any questions, just ask. You can contact me at any time on the forum or at;

[e-mail]

You also have my mobile number.

Many thanks for your custom.
My kindest regards,
Gary.