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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 17:02:25 GMT 1
The above can work if the key is "near" the correct one
The applying pressure in the direction of unlocking should put pressure on the edges of the tumblers
As the tumbler clears the lock the pressure in theory stops it springing back into the barrel groove
If you have a key that matches 3 if the tumblers you only have 2 left
Steve
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Post by jon on Jan 4, 2021 17:57:14 GMT 1
Its a holy grail offset cap😊 Are they really that rare? I I have 2. 1 with very light scratches and without key. The other is without barrel and has a crack running 1cm or so from the lock. Could be glued or welded from underneath I think? Someone was after one, but I said I’d no idea of worth, and I’d ask on here. As usual I forgot as it’s been a hectic couple of months. Jon |
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Post by reedpete on Jan 4, 2021 18:17:27 GMT 1
The rarest are the alloy ones with the little arrow, they were fitted on the 1980 bikes. Offset plastic ones still ‘rare’ in so far as they are NLA and the available replacement cap that’s from 31k has central lock.
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Post by stusco on Jan 4, 2021 18:47:43 GMT 1
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fabiostar
Thrash Merchant
the older i get the faster i was.
Posts: 447
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Post by fabiostar on Jan 4, 2021 20:01:57 GMT 1
sweet christ for a fuel cap??? thats mental money just to put fuel in the tank. every days a school day. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 20:21:05 GMT 1
sweet christ for a fuel cap??? thats mental money just to put fuel in the tank. every days a school day. When you consider if you buy a new genuine plastic one from Fowlers the damage is £76 Makes £120 for a lockset a bargain Steve |
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Post by marrcel on Jan 4, 2021 21:32:12 GMT 1
I have 3 different keys for contact fuelcap and seat.
I have a lock pick set somewhere. Is there a good instruction or video to go for a one key solution. Do i need any new parts?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 21:48:01 GMT 1
I have 3 different keys for contact fuelcap and seat. I have a lock pick set somewhere. Is there a good instruction or video to go for a one key solution. Do i need any new parts? The fuel cap is the hardest so I usually convert the others to fit that key It's quite straight forward if all the keys you have are the same code/pattern Also they all need to be genuine If all the same You can usually swap the tumblers around to get them to fit Each lock has 5 tumblers. Basically just a brass tab with a small spring that sticks out the key barrel There is a slot in the middle the key goes through and aligns it in the barrel allowing it to turn If you take out the tumblers from all the locks then fit one in a lock barrel then insert the key you will see whether it fits flush in which case it is right for that position. If not swap it for one that is different Once you get one right leave it in place then try the 2nd tumbler and so on I'd also say do the ignition first That way if you run out of matching tumblers it is the seat lock that is security compromised If you find you have a couple that are wrong on the seat lock and you don't have spares just fit them in the barrel, insert the key and just file the tabs that are protruding Means technically 2 different keys have the ability to open the lock When you strip the ignition switch and seat lock there is a little tab you push to release the barrels out the lock body Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 21:48:58 GMT 1
Oh and if all keys are different patterns you need to find matching ones
Steve
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Post by JonW on Jan 4, 2021 23:03:44 GMT 1
There are quite a few videos on keying alike Yamaha locks on youtube. But many of the Japanese bikes have similar tumblers if you need spares, just buy some old locks. I stick to Yamaha of the era to be sure with mine and things like FJ are nice and cheap ways to get old keys and more spares.
If you have want to key alike your generic key blanks (A-F) must fit the locks. As said above, not all blanks fit all locks, if you look at the profiles you will easily see why.
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Post by tacky1 on Jan 4, 2021 23:07:45 GMT 1
A few pics of the process.. Just to give you an idea, You can swap around the tumblers and file down the ones that are too high.. They must be level with the side of the barrel when the key is in so the lock will turn...   |
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Post by JonW on Jan 4, 2021 23:22:09 GMT 1
FWIW If you get really stuck with a single tumbler that wont play ball you can leave it out until you can find the right one, obviously thats less of a lock if you do that but it will keep you making progress until you can sort it later.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 23:34:20 GMT 1
Just leave them all out and use a spam tin key 🤣
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 4, 2021 23:36:43 GMT 1
On a serious note there are a couple of key code letters that will fit in another code but not vice versa
They have an extra cut section on the key but basically will fit
Steve
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Post by steve h on Jan 4, 2021 23:44:48 GMT 1
Something inside me says that buying the lad that as a present is just very questionable!!  Unless your middle name is "fingers"  |
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Post by marrcel on Jan 5, 2021 22:12:43 GMT 1
Thank you guys. This will help. But It is still abracadabra to me. But i never picked a lock. So fingers virgin🤪 I thought i first try the seatlock. No worries if i mess it up. Here a pic. Left is ignition, middle tank, right seat. A B A  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 5, 2021 22:30:30 GMT 1
That's a Bugger the tank is the odd one out
The ignition and the seat lock should not be too hard
As far as I know the numbers after the letter are the tumbler numbers and order
Steve
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Post by reedpete on Jan 5, 2021 23:38:44 GMT 1
Bought my son a ‘toy’ lock picking set for Christmas a few years back, Something inside me says that buying the lad that as a present is just very questionable!! Unless your middle name is "fingers" 😁 something unusual for sure, more entertaining than the usual Christmas puzzles...and a useful life skill ! |
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Post by JonW on Jan 6, 2021 4:20:09 GMT 1
Yes you need to change the barrels to get a key to work in all the locks. Worth an ask, someone might have one they want to swap?
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