31K - Original or Hybrid?

[fatfreddy]

So my 31K is now stripped (apart from the barrel seized onto the stud holding it to the crank case - see post in Help section...).

It will be getting a long stroke crank and Mutt’s pipes and the question no is whether to go stock or hybrid for the running gear.

I don’t want to change much but I am tempted by 17 inch wheels, a lighter swing arm, modern rubber, better brakes and improved forks.

I don’t have an engineering shop in my basement so advanced modifications/fabrication is off the table and any non standard parts would need to fit with a minimum of modifications!

So, in light of this, what says the collective wisdom of the forum?

[veg]

Best thing to do is look at what others have done and work out what you like the look of, then make the decision. Personally i would be tempted to keep it semi standard a bit of a street sleeper.

[dusty350]

Not many 31k hybrids about. Probably the nicest imo is Mouse's French blue and white lc2. Its lovely🙂
Search it out in the restoration section😉

Dusty🙂

[flames]

I guess it will also come down to how much you want to spend. There never seems to b a limit to how high you can go. Some of the bikes on here have had a fortune spent on them but it shows.
Most look out of this world.
It amazes me.

[veg]

The problem is your budget, what you think you'll spend and what you really spend. My lc/tz was mid teens i set out to build an lc tribute to what i used to have spannies etc before i knew it i was in big, my current build is an ac 250 frame with ac 250 bottom end with lc barrels tzr front end, this was going to be a cheap build it already isn't. You either have to be really really firm with yourself, or you will get lost in the build and its not just the big stuff you'll see a small bracket and then suddenly you've bought 3 of them, then they highlight something else that needs changing or just accept that budgets don't apply.
Enjoy it though as they can be incredibly satisfying and therapeutic and you'll be supplied with a healthy dose of encouragement on here.

[midlifecrisisrd]

As above, it can get out of hand

That's why I'm doing my leftovers build

You acquire bits then change your mind or what you think is a better condition one turns up

The biggest cost in hybrids (other than the actual parts) is the adaptions to get wheels to fit in other swing arms etc

So if you don't want to go crazy pick forks/swinger/wheels/brakes that go together

That's why the rgv conversions were so popular on a ypvs as basically went straight in with a stem spacer and an NK racing linkage bolt on ket for the rear

One of the nicest "sleeper" builds I did was RGV vj21 rwu forks and unbraced swing arm

People may have noticed I'm a 600 fazer front end fan at the moment (got 4 sets of forks 🙄)

Steve

[JonW]

Agree with Veg n Steve, it can easily end up spiralling, but you get a cool bike when its done and you get to know more about your bike than you would if you just redid what Yam did. And its 'built not bought' etc.

[dusty350]

A complete Rgv front end will go in with a 5mm spacer under the bottom bearing.
If you can afford one, a Metmachex swingarm for the Ypvs frame, and an Rgv wheel will bolt straight in. When you weigh up getting another arm, getting it modded to work correctly, then add new bearings, polish or paint, you may not be far off the cost of a brand new blingy arm from Metmachex. Plus it will be the right length for the wheelbase of the bike. I've messed around with different swingarms over the years, but I always budget for a Metmachex arm on builds now if I can. Still cost easily 2k plus though if you go with powdercoated wheels, new bearings, tyres, refurbed forks etc. Soon adds up

Dusty

[jon]

Are you fully stripping the engine?

If so I’ve just had a thought. I can’t see why it wouldn’t work but may have missed something obvious.

Just strip it all with the barrels on. Then bolt the head on, pack the head dome with a rag, turn the top case and barrel upside down and use a block of wood and a lump hammer to crack the barrel off.

Jon

[marrcel]

Well a simple solution is see first what is available. And Stock steel swinger isn’t heavy at al. If you want a bit of originality, keep the steel swinger and take rwu forks.
I wanted fully adjustable suspension and blue spot brakes and 17” wheels.
Fazer 1000 43mm rwu discs mudguard mastercyl 300€. Reason this is cheap is everybody want convert to usd. So rwu is cheap and original looking.
Szr660 Rearwheel disc hup caliper 75€
R6 shock 40€. New heavier spring 75€

[veg]

Absolutely love it and in the fastest colours as well.

[fatfreddy]

Jun 19, 2020 17:58:15 GMT 1 marrcel said:

Well a simple solution is see first what is available. And Stock steel swinger isn’t heavy at al. If you want a bit of originality, keep the steel swinger and take rwu forks.
I wanted fully adjustable suspension and blue spot brakes and 17” wheels.
Fazer 1000 43mm rwu discs mudguard mastercyl 300€. Reason this is cheap is everybody want convert to usd. So rwu is cheap and original looking.
Szr660 Rearwheel disc hup caliper 75€
R6 shock 40€. New heavier spring 75€

That sounds like a good call!

[dusty350]

You could also look at Vj21 like Steve said. A lot cheaper than Vj22, and uses the same calipers and wheel as the 22;

20200421_115655 by dusty miller, on Flickr

Clip ons as standard though so you would need risers for normal Lc2 style bars. The Suzuki wheel would look different to a Yam wheel though. Marcel used an Szr rear wheel - I used an Tzr125 Belgarda which looks the same, and fits well in the Pv arm;

DSCN3290 by dusty miller, on Flickr

I used the Tzr front end in that bike too so spoke design matched the rear, but only single disc up front.

Dusty