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Post by russpuss on Feb 8, 2020 20:05:47 GMT 1
I’ve done a really silly schoolboy error, screwed my original bits to the cap and fitted it, it’s now stuck on, I’m guessing I’ve gone too tight and it won’t allow any pressure to push it down to take it off. So I’m open to suggestions to get it off my newly painted 1 off tank (crying).
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Post by marsbar350 on Feb 8, 2020 22:39:01 GMT 1
unfortunate there russ cant offer any removal advice just don't chip the lovely paintwork  |
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Post by russpuss on Feb 8, 2020 22:40:19 GMT 1
These things are sent to try us. I was just trying the bits to bloody motivate myself
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Post by JonW on Feb 8, 2020 22:53:30 GMT 1
get a rag round iit and a big set of water pump / stilson type pliers [1] and i expect you'll shift it and not damage anything.
Its weird its locked up solid, i can only think the seal was dry or too thick or the land on the tank is damaged, or something like that as ive got one and it just spins on fine.
1 - better still cut a big wooden template to match the cap and use it like a big spanner.
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Post by russpuss on Feb 8, 2020 22:54:34 GMT 1
get a rag round iit and a big set of water pump / stilson type pliers [1] and i expect you'll shift it and not damage anything. Its weird its locked up solid, i can only think the seal was dry or too thick or the land on the tank is damaged, or something like that as ive got one and it just spins on fine. 1 - better still cut a big wooden template to match the cap and use it like a big spanner. Think I’ve over tightened the mech causing the spring to tighten |
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Post by JonW on Feb 8, 2020 23:02:04 GMT 1
I dont think you can screw it on too tight tho, you do the bolts up tight. I think its a 'mechanical' issue with the interface between the tank flange and those fingers in the dome on the bottom. There are no sliding locking 'pins' now (assuming there is no key version made of these yet) so nothing to physically lock it in place.
You could endoscope it from the tap hole, but im not sure it'd help...
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Post by steve h on Feb 8, 2020 23:53:15 GMT 1
Was also thinking a cut out spanner. Sh1t happens. Hope it gets resolved without damage!!
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Post by tipfinchy on Feb 9, 2020 10:24:17 GMT 1
hope you get it sorted
I like the idea of a billet cap (no key to worry about) but was put off by the couple of threads on here about them not venting and having to drill a small hole through it to get it to do so
mart
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Post by russpuss on Feb 9, 2020 10:34:15 GMT 1
hope you get it sorted I like the idea of a billet cap (no key to worry about) but was put off by the couple of threads on here about them not venting and having to drill a small hole through it to get it to do so mart I wasn’t aware of that part, I’ll have to see once I get the bugger off! |
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Post by earthman on Feb 9, 2020 10:36:36 GMT 1
Usually lubrication and heat helps with anything that is tight,....could you spray the likes of WD40 any where near the seal? I certainly wouldn't want to use a blow torch etc but how about placing a wet boiling hot rag on top of the cap for example??
I'm not familiar with this cap to be honest, got any pictures of it in situ? Might help folk come up with other ideas???
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Post by russpuss on Feb 9, 2020 10:37:31 GMT 1
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Post by tipfinchy on Feb 9, 2020 10:45:07 GMT 1
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Post by russpuss on Feb 9, 2020 11:06:29 GMT 1
I can cope with a hole, I’ll nip in the cave later and have another go at getting the pig off 1st!
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Post by veg on Feb 9, 2020 11:13:21 GMT 1
Would you get enough purchase with an adjustable c spanner?
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Post by russpuss on Feb 9, 2020 11:18:06 GMT 1
Would you get enough purchase with an adjustable c spanner? I made a soft wooden type cap shaped spanner and got 1 lug up before the wood “gave way”. Might need some stilsons and plenty of protection! |
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Post by veg on Feb 9, 2020 11:24:06 GMT 1
Angle grinder disc tightening tool(can't remember what they are called), drill 2 holes in the cap and do it that way? it'll possibly bugger the cap but better than the paintwork. Potentially you could then tap one hole for a breather hole and blank the other one?
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Post by headcoats on Feb 9, 2020 11:37:10 GMT 1
I would use a standard cap if there are issues with venting with that billet cap and you are running a bigger engine too , so that tank needs to vent
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Post by nokturnal on Feb 9, 2020 11:37:12 GMT 1
Rubber strap oil filter wrench?
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Post by earthman on Feb 9, 2020 12:30:14 GMT 1
I would use a standard cap if there are issues with venting with that billet cap and you are running a bigger engine too , so that tank needs to vent It is a lovely looking cap but I do agree with you,.....the only bike I've owned that didn't have a locking fuel cap were a Thomas moped, that didn't even have an ignition key though, just a kill switch, no battery of course. Crazy I thought even back then, no way of stopping kids removing the cap or starting the engine even whilst chained up to a lamppost for example. |
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Post by russpuss on Feb 9, 2020 12:45:34 GMT 1
 Plenty of masking up, stilsons old inner tube and it’s off! Never crossed my mind to take the locking mech off! Lucky it was plastic and snapped under pressure, that’s the last time I go in the cave after a beer or 3 to work on a bike. Thread closed, have a nice day lol |
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Post by rigga on Feb 9, 2020 15:49:02 GMT 1
I was wondering how it got jammed, yea beer and fettling dont go together well.
I had fuel starvation issues with that cap fitted, the breather down the side of the center casting needs enlarging.
I fitted the original
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Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2020 21:51:29 GMT 1
I would use a standard cap if there are issues with venting with that billet cap and you are running a bigger engine too , so that tank needs to vent It is a lovely looking cap but I do agree with you,.....the only bike I've owned that didn't have a locking fuel cap were a Thomas moped, that didn't even have an ignition key though, just a kill switch, no battery of course. Crazy I thought even back then, no way of stopping kids removing the cap or starting the engine even whilst chained up to a lamppost for example. Tomas moped😁 Wow they were the days👍 16 and needed to get to college so bought mine (a silver one) from mums Kay’s catalogue for £199 Came with a free insurance tax for 12 months and an open face helmet Even remember the reg number B27 GUY And payback was just £2 a week over 50 weeks Oh to be 16 and an apprentice again😁😁 Best wishes Al |
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Post by petenofear on Feb 9, 2020 22:54:52 GMT 1
Good you got it off mate ,,
I am liking the paint job 👍
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Post by earthman on Feb 9, 2020 23:33:30 GMT 1
It is a lovely looking cap but I do agree with you,.....the only bike I've owned that didn't have a locking fuel cap were a Thomas moped, that didn't even have an ignition key though, just a kill switch, no battery of course. Crazy I thought even back then, no way of stopping kids removing the cap or starting the engine even whilst chained up to a lamppost for example. Tomas moped😁 Wow they were the days👍 16 and needed to get to college so bought mine (a silver one) from mums Kay’s catalogue for £199 Came with a free insurance tax for 12 months and an open face helmet Even remember the reg number B27 GUY And payback was just £2 a week over 50 weeks Oh to be 16 and an apprentice again😁😁 Best wishes Al That's the one, I got mine from a bike shop for £40, don't think the previous owner had used the correct amount of 2 stroke oil in the tank because it were seized. I got a new piston and other bits, spent about a tenner in parts so £50 in total got me a running bike,..probably cheapest rebuild ever. Lol |
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 10, 2020 8:29:28 GMT 1
The 3mm hole through the centre of the billet cap works well on a standard Lc. The owner of the bike has put nigh on a thousand miles on it with no fuel starvation issues. Whether it is sufficient for a big bore engine at high revs is unknown of course. One thing is for sure though - if you don't vent that billet cap you will get fuel starvation due to the rubber seal blocking the vent channel that is machined into the underside of the cap. You could drill a larger hole and fit a proper breather spigot to be absolutely sure, but it kinda ruins the look of the tuning fork logo on the top Dusty |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 10, 2020 22:36:05 GMT 1
Is it possible to machine or make the original breather channel deeper.
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Post by russpuss on Feb 10, 2020 22:42:24 GMT 1
Is it possible to machine or make the original breather channel deeper. Hope so, I might go in sideways so not to alter the top otherwise. |
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Post by steve h on Feb 11, 2020 0:51:20 GMT 1
So it was the beer's fault!!  What was the Riddler down to?? Absinthe??  Nice result anyhoo!! Ya need to do yer own paint... it aint as if you are lacking the skills  |
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Post by JonW on Feb 11, 2020 2:16:40 GMT 1
ahh so the lock mech was fitted on the bottom of the 'dome'? That would do it... wouldnt take much for the fingers to slide out and lock on their own as nothing there to hold em.
Without that mech fitted these fit fine, or at least mine does.
I do need to enlarge the breather and or add a 2nd or third one perhaps. just need to pop it on a mill I guess and get cutting.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 12, 2020 0:24:06 GMT 1
Is it possible to machine or make the original breather channel deeper. Hope so, I might go in sideways so not to alter the top otherwise. Maybe it's not such a good idea if the fuel can swish around and leak out the breather hole? |
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