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Post by earthman on May 13, 2019 22:19:35 GMT 1
Just wondering what settings you guys use for road riding on a standard 4LO, the rear shock on mine is set at half way, sometimes I feel that's a bit harsh for example but maybe that's expected/normal for a 30+ year old design. Tyre pressures, so far I've stuck with 'high speed' (28 & 32psi) rather than 'normal riding' (25 & 28psi) even though I'm not hammering it around every where,....I weigh a couple of more stone than I did when I were 19, I'm thinking that the extra psi maybe a good idea then?  |
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Post by donkeychomp on May 13, 2019 22:23:36 GMT 1
I run the same pressures but I don't weigh very much! On a standard shock mine is usually on the lowest setting but a new one could reap a world of benefits. What weight fork oil are you using? Might need to use something a bit thicker.
Alex
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Post by earthman on May 13, 2019 22:45:03 GMT 1
What weight fork oil are you using? Might need to use something a bit thicker. Alex Don't know to be honest, the front end seems fine to me, it's the rear shock that doesn't at times. |
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Post by donkeychomp on May 15, 2019 21:59:35 GMT 1
Perhaps (if it's the original) it's had it's day. Perhaps invest in a new one? Loads out there...
Alex
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Post by earthman on May 16, 2019 7:35:41 GMT 1
Perhaps (if it's the original) it's had it's day. Perhaps invest in a new one? Loads out there... Alex You could be right but I would have thought that I'd be experiencing the opposite, a soft/spongy ride. |
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Post by bare on May 16, 2019 17:03:42 GMT 1
Difficult to answer.
OEM shock (Rear) has no real adjustability only preload. Spring rate remains fixed, regardless of spring perch position
Prime purpose of a Shock is Rebound control, often even pricey adjustables have sketchy rebound valvings .. sadly.
Front Forks? A whole world of Experimentation / Bodges have been tried there.
Many do little tho. Oil viscosity is the valving control with our geriatric fork designs.
Replacement is the simplest way to moderne forks.
Tire pressures? depends on tire brand/type.
Some Tires are.. Very stiff..so effective pressures can vary widely.
IE: My rear tire(bt45) found a nail,
No air get it home. So I rode it... thinking I'd be buying a new one next day.
Effing bt 45 proved Sooo stiff in the sidewall that it was acceptably ridable .. even airless.
As result there was Zero damage .
Very strange to me.
I use Fr 30 and R 34psi on my bt's .. now.
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Post by sp885 on May 17, 2019 22:15:39 GMT 1
I have Bridgestone Battlax BT45's on my LC, just the standard sizes, I run 36 psi in the back and 33 psi in the front, I got that from the Bridgestone website, I'm on my second set now I got nearly 7,000km out of the first set I had on it
Steve
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Post by earthman on May 17, 2019 22:22:13 GMT 1
I have Bridgestone Battlax BT45's on my LC, just the standard sizes, I run 36 psi in the back and 33 psi in the front, I got that from the Bridgestone website, I'm on my second set now I got nearly 7,000km out of the first set I had on it Steve Thanks, my first thought is that those pressures seem high for a fairly small bike but what do I know?? Would like to know how they work out these pressures in the first place and I wonder if the bods at Yamaha would agree/be happy about that? |
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Post by tacky1 on May 18, 2019 3:20:47 GMT 1
I have a set of stock size BTs on mine. I run 34 rear. 32 front. Progressive springs with 15w oil and a YSS rear shock. Handles pretty damn good.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 18, 2019 9:56:51 GMT 1
The important thing to remember is the low pressures given for circuit use is because the air inside the tyres will expand a lot due to the heat generated by the tyres.
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Post by earthman on May 18, 2019 11:57:15 GMT 1
The pressures I've quoted came from the Haynes workshop manual, I'm assuming that they are the same that would be in the Yamaha owners book??
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Post by earthman on Jun 4, 2019 7:48:21 GMT 1
Question for those guys who are running on rather high tyre pressures, are you tube or tubeless?
I'm just wondering how much heat may be generated and whether or not an inner tube would be affected??
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 4, 2019 16:04:27 GMT 1
The recommended manufacturers pressures for the particular bike are always a good starting point. Some tyres need different pressures to standard OEM due to differences in construction. This can be seen in F1, where very soft tyre walls are used, and varying the pressure affects ride height and suspension effect.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 4, 2019 16:06:39 GMT 1
I run BT45s at recommended pressures (36/33) for normal road use with inner tubes on standard rims, as standard rims are designed for tubes. I use tubeless on my LC with TZR wheels as that is what those wheels were designed for.
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Post by earthman on Jun 4, 2019 21:08:53 GMT 1
I run BT45s at recommended pressures (36/33) for normal road use with inner tubes on standard rims, as standard rims are designed for tubes. I use tubeless on my LC with TZR wheels as that is what those wheels were designed for. Have you ever tried dropping them down to 32/28 just to compare? I just wonder who knows what's best for this bike, Bridgestone or Yamaha?? |
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 4, 2019 23:28:47 GMT 1
Yamaha figures would be based on the original tyres that were fitted. Aftermarket tyres are not straight copies of the original tyres, as they have different construction and materials, which may need different pressures to standard to get the best from them.
I am not sure of the technique for finding the optimum pressures for road use, but I am sure there should be some guidance on the internet.
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