|
|
Post by markg64 on Apr 16, 2019 7:53:03 GMT 1
Hi all, had to take my thermostat out as my bike was running really hot. Apparently the ypvs thermostat doesn't open till around 71 degrees. Was advised to fit an rgv one that opens at around 52 degrees but they are around the £45 mark. Is there a thermostat from something else that would fit and not cost so much ?
Cheers
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 16, 2019 9:00:48 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free
|
|
|
|
Post by bazzer5115 on Apr 16, 2019 12:08:59 GMT 1
Don’t bother with them,3 tuned ypvs hybrids no thermostats,no problems.
Probably only fitted to help with the emissions.
If you want to restrict water flow slightly to keep it in head/barrels a little longer just make up a alloy restrictor plate.
I’ve never bothered and never had a problem,engine runs nice and cool.
If you go for rgv thermostat you also need to buy a spacer plate I believe- more cost!!
|
|
|
|
Post by markhoopy on Apr 16, 2019 20:21:57 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free I didn't realise you were a Yorkshireman Yogi - thought you were from down south  |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 16, 2019 21:08:43 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free I didn't realise you were a Yorkshireman Yogi - thought you were from down south The wife’s a scouser,it must be rubbing off on me,lol |
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 16, 2019 21:11:08 GMT 1
I didn't realise you were a Yorkshireman Yogi - thought you were from down south The wife’s a scouser,it must be rubbing off on me,lol Can't be that A Scouser would just have nicked one 🤣🤣🤣 Steve |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 16, 2019 21:13:39 GMT 1
The wife’s a scouser,it must be rubbing off on me,lol Can't be that A Scouser would just have nicked one 🤣🤣🤣 Steve Why do you think I run without them,,she’s knicked them all |
|
|
|
Post by markg64 on Apr 16, 2019 22:07:13 GMT 1
Cheers for the replys lads, I'll leave the old girl thermostat free and see how she goes. Thanks again
|
|
|
|
Post by markg64 on Apr 16, 2019 22:09:11 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free Hi mate, you going down the ace next month, would be nice to chat again ? |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 16, 2019 22:33:11 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free Hi mate, you going down the ace next month, would be nice to chat again ? Hi mate I’ll try to but I live an extra 60 miles away now Matt |
|
|
|
Post by rich on Apr 16, 2019 23:02:26 GMT 1
You can't completely remove the stat as it carries the seal for the housing. Best bet is remove the guts from an old stat and use that
|
|
|
|
Post by bare on Apr 17, 2019 1:47:28 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free Yer a Fool.. Thermostats prevent high speed water Flows and subsequent engine destroying hot spots. |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Apr 17, 2019 10:30:14 GMT 1
Why not run without one then it’s free Yer a Fool.. Thermostats prevent high speed water Flows and subsequent engine destroying hot spots. It was a humorous attempt at calling him a tight wad Loads of people ride without them with no adverse results So instead of only being a sarcastic t**t all the time try putting some positive comments to threads Instead of sarcasm and negativity you anorak wearing bookworm of a bell end |
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Apr 17, 2019 22:35:12 GMT 1
I thought stats could cause issues by going from no cooling to full cooling in a short space of time.
LC's run with no stat and don't seem to suffer...even my tuned one running a huge rad with no stat has no quick temperature fluctuations.
|
|
|
|
Post by bare on Apr 18, 2019 17:47:34 GMT 1
Erm Japanese Market LC's were fitted with thermostats.
Japanese have a significantly higher production standard for domestic consumption.
Gaijin are shipped/sold what isn't acceptable to the Japanese consumer.
Thermostats are essentially flow restrictors... they have genuine purpose.
Water rushing thru cooling passages 'too' quickly will not cool evenly or consistently.
Typically causing hot spots and distortion issues in the least.
Thermal shock, a serious issue in ineptly operated Radial engines of Yore,
Is a small (non?) issue in a water jacket that still contains coolant
If fitting a stat is beyond the budget ?.. fit a flow restrictor plate.
Not understanding why not fitting a Stat is perceived as advantageous.
|
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Apr 18, 2019 18:38:13 GMT 1
A Tstat opens and closes progressivly. It keeps the temp of outlet coolant flow within a certain range. So a bit better then no stat or a restrictor.
|
|
|
|
Post by jon on Apr 18, 2019 19:42:14 GMT 1
I do wonder if Yamaha San was refining as it’s design as it went along.
Remember the LC was just that. One of the first liquid cooled bikes so the technology was in an infant stage for consumer bikes.
Also I wonder if the use of a thermostat in the YPVS was a modern solution, and a small rad was required to stop hunting of temperatures?
I’ll be trying a larger rad and 50 degree stat and standard impeller to try and get a cooler running engine, without too much flow to cause hot spots in cylinders without the temperature hunting because of the large rad with stat.
Jon
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 18, 2019 19:49:33 GMT 1
I do wonder if Yamaha San was refining as it’s design as it went along. Remember the LC was just that. One of the first liquid cooled bikes so the technology was in an infant stage for consumer bikes. Also I wonder if the use of a thermostat in the YPVS was a modern solution, and a small rad was required to stop hunting of temperatures? I’ll be trying a larger rad and 50 degree stat and standard impeller to try and get a cooler running engine, without too much flow to cause hot spots in cylinders without the temperature hunting because of the large rad with stat. Jon I've read twice in a short time that too much flow causes hot spots. Can someone explain the theory behind this? I am busy thinking about how i can create more flow in a highly tuned engine to get rid of hot spots  |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 18, 2019 20:00:20 GMT 1
This is what you need it gives constant flow over the engine and you can fit a massive rad without any see saw effect of the water temperature.  |
|
|
|
Post by jon on Apr 18, 2019 20:15:34 GMT 1
I do wonder if Yamaha San was refining as it’s design as it went along. Remember the LC was just that. One of the first liquid cooled bikes so the technology was in an infant stage for consumer bikes. Also I wonder if the use of a thermostat in the YPVS was a modern solution, and a small rad was required to stop hunting of temperatures? I’ll be trying a larger rad and 50 degree stat and standard impeller to try and get a cooler running engine, without too much flow to cause hot spots in cylinders without the temperature hunting because of the large rad with stat. Jon I've read twice in a short time that too much flow causes hot spots. Can someone explain the theory behind this? I am busy thinking about how i can create more flow in a highly tuned engine to get rid of hot spots I’m an engineer that studied thermodynamics (amongst other things at college) 30 years ago, but am no expert. My basic logic (as I see it) is that if the flow is too high through the head; it basically shoots over the top of the water in the cylinder jackets so they don’t get cooled enough. With a normal flow the water, it can has time to equalise temperature by heat transfer in the system then be cooled by the radiator. Jon |
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Apr 18, 2019 21:01:45 GMT 1
This is what you need it gives constant flow over the engine and you can fit a massive rad without any see saw effect of the water temperature. Is this a flow controller? Dont you want more flow at higher rpms? |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 18, 2019 21:17:45 GMT 1
Hi Jon, i am definitely not a professor, just a diesel mechanic that has to solve cooling problems now and again. I think you are talking about laminar flow created by smooth surfaces ? The cooling spaces inside our engine blocks a fairly rough which leads to a bit of turbulent flow through the spaces. This is good for heat exchange. If you create more flow the turbulence will also be greater. The negative effect of increased flow could be wear within the component, but i doubt the component will be in service long enough to see this.
Well this is what i believe is going on on our engines.
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 18, 2019 21:26:08 GMT 1
This is what you need it gives constant flow over the engine and you can fit a massive rad without any see saw effect of the water temperature. Is this a flow controller? Dont you want more flow at higher rpms? Hi Marrcel this is a three way thermostat. The coolant goes in then heats up the element. The element begins to open and lets the coolant into the radiator and back to the pump at the same time. The hotter the coolant the more it sends to the radiator and less to the pump. If it is really hot all the coolant is sent to the radiator and the bypass to the pump is closed. This will always give you flow over the engine reducing thermal shocks. |
|
horace
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 456
|
Post by horace on Apr 19, 2019 7:42:58 GMT 1
Just take it out use the black rubber seal that’s round the edge of the stat to put back in the head and off you go , took mine out half way through France on a trip to Portugal about 10 years ago and it’s been out ever since , several 700/800 mile weekend thrashes since , if it’s freezing weather I just cover bottom half of rad. 😜
|
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Apr 19, 2019 18:40:51 GMT 1
Hi Jon, i am definitely not a professor, just a diesel mechanic that has to solve cooling problems now and again. I think you are talking about laminar flow created by smooth surfaces ? The cooling spaces inside our engine blocks a fairly rough which leads to a bit of turbulent flow through the spaces. This is good for heat exchange. If you create more flow the turbulence will also be greater. The negative effect of increased flow could be wear within the component, but i doubt the component will be in service long enough to see this. Well this is what i believe is going on on our engines. Very interesting. I calculated pump circuits. If it is laminair flow then Reynolds is below 2000. Above 3000 it is turbulant. If you want to calculate Reynolds through every pipe rad barrel or head, you need flow and surface area of each part. Surface area can easily measured. But what is the flow of our impellors at each rpm? This is called the pump curve. If it is freeshing cold and stat is closed the laminair spots will heat up quicket then the turbulant spots. This is what i used for designing circuits. Anybody did these kind of calculations on lc or pv? |
|
|
|
Post by steeley on Apr 19, 2019 19:34:01 GMT 1
Hi , had the same sort of issue with my Tzr350 31k engine fitted . After years of running it and a couple of time's to the IOM TT and the Classic meet there. I noticed on one local trip that the gauge had gone right into the red and thought Bugger H/gasket . No .as it turned out it was the thermostat so I took it out and drilled a couple of 3mm holes in the flange . Now Nice.
|
|
