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Post by andrewm on Apr 6, 2019 17:32:21 GMT 1
Hi guys I have a 350lc which has had a engine rebuild about 1k miles ago. I have a slight oil leak from what looks to be the gear selector shaft.
Is there a little tip that I can do to try and stop the leak or does the oil seal need to come out & be replaced?
It was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
Thanks
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 6, 2019 18:15:13 GMT 1
Hi You could try the seal, and even the shaft itself can get a wear groove in it, but more likely the ally housing the steel shaft passes through has been worn over the years. The Pv engines had a steel bush pressed in as standard to stop the steel gear change shaft wearing the softer ally casing it passes through. Good news is Norbo sells the bush to retro fit the Lc case. Bad news is it's an engine strip to do it properly. There was a fella selling a fix on ebay for about £20 I think that meant you didn't need to strip the engine, which is probably your best and cheapest option, but don't know if he is listing them at the mo. Dusty  |
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Post by wangwang on Apr 6, 2019 18:25:23 GMT 1
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Post by alankelly on Apr 6, 2019 18:27:01 GMT 1
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Post by alankelly on Apr 6, 2019 18:34:35 GMT 1
Hi Another good fix / improvement if the gear shaft is moving within the case hole due to wear and you do not want to do a strip to bush the worn hole is if you have access to a local engineering works, is to bore out the outer case hole and fit a needle roller bearing in the outer case to support the outer end of the gear shaft and this will prevent it flexing sideways during a gear shift that then can cause a leak   Best wishes Al |
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 6, 2019 18:34:52 GMT 1
That's the one ! Never tried one but it would save a world of pain, and cost, if it works like it should. Bit of extra support for the shaft too  Dusty |
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Post by philmill on Apr 6, 2019 19:08:15 GMT 1
I used the bush and seal, fits nice and easy. worth doing if you don't want to strip the motor, its cheaper than a new shaft too.
Phil
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Post by andrewm on Apr 6, 2019 19:49:55 GMT 1
This link states it’s for a 250cc will it still work on my 350cc? |
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Post by alankelly on Apr 6, 2019 19:50:49 GMT 1
Yes cases are the same
Best wishes Al
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Post by andrewm on Apr 6, 2019 20:35:44 GMT 1
This link states it’s for a 250cc will it still work on my 350cc? Ok thanks is it a fairly straight forward job? I’ve just done a fresh oil change. I’m guessing I’d have to drop the oil out if it? Thanks |
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 6, 2019 20:41:31 GMT 1
No need to drop the oil. Just lean the bike against a wall on it's right side
Dusty
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Post by andrewm on Apr 6, 2019 20:49:44 GMT 1
Thank you I’ll buy that kit now then.
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Post by earthman on Apr 6, 2019 22:13:56 GMT 1
No need to drop the oil. Just lean the bike against a wall on it's right side Dusty That could be precarious, for the sake of undoing a drain plug, I think that I'd rather do that to be honest, you can just capture/reuse the oil if it's fresh. |
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Post by earthman on Apr 6, 2019 22:15:15 GMT 1
Thank you I’ll buy that kit now then. Best of luck, let us know how you get on with it. |
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murp
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 239
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Post by murp on Apr 7, 2019 7:30:36 GMT 1
if I was to get that kit..... do I get the Bush or no Bush kit
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Post by philmill on Apr 7, 2019 7:46:48 GMT 1
I think the bush option is best, it moves the seal down the shaft and helps supporting the shaft on the case too. I decided for the difference in price it was the best option.
Phil
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murp
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 239
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Post by murp on Apr 7, 2019 8:11:55 GMT 1
cheers.... I've just bought one👍
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 7, 2019 8:27:41 GMT 1
Earthman - I doubt any of us would lean the bike against the wall in a way it would damage anything or risk falling over. You don't have to lean it far to move the oil away from the seal. I've done it in the past with absolutely no problems, so as long as you are careful and chock the wheels and make sure it cant move it will be fine. But if you are unsure or not happy, then drop the oil. Just saying you don't need to. The other issue may be the pipes being in the way, making it harder to access the drain bolt - maybe not an issue but if you don't have to disturb/remove pipes, life would be easier. And I would buy the version with the bush, otherwise you have a steel shaft moving in an ally housing (again). Dusty |
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Post by earthman on Apr 7, 2019 9:18:28 GMT 1
Earthman - I doubt any of us would lean the bike against the wall in a way it would damage anything or risk falling over. You don't have to lean it far to move the oil away from the seal. I've done it in the past with absolutely no problems, so as long as you are careful and chock the wheels and make sure it cant move it will be fine. But if you are unsure or not happy, then drop the oil. Just saying you don't need to. The other issue may be the pipes being in the way, making it harder to access the drain bolt - maybe not an issue but if you don't have to disturb/remove pipes, life would be easier. And I would buy the version with the bush, otherwise you have a steel shaft moving in an ally housing (again). Dusty Yeah, I'm sure it's possible and don't disagree on what you say,...it's just that often you can become 'caught up in moment' on other things, having to knock/use a bit more pressure for example, resulting in a chock moving or the bike falling and damaged paintwork etc. Some jobs it's just not worth taking short cuts in my opinion. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 7, 2019 15:46:05 GMT 1
Hi Another good fix / improvement if the gear shaft is moving within the case hole due to wear and you do not want to do a strip to bush the worn hole is if you have access to a local engineering works, is to bore out the outer case hole and fit a needle roller bearing in the outer case to support the outer end of the gear shaft and this will prevent it flexing sideways during a gear shift that then can cause a leak Best wishes Al I've seen this mod before posted on this forum. I didn't make a remark about it as I don't like to upset people. Now I'm going to be a grumpy git and tell everyone that I really don't like this idea. The reason why I don't like it is because the gear change shaft is fairly soft compared to the steel rollers of the bearing. Due to all the vibrations of the engine I think the gear shaft will wear much faster leaving a notches in the shaft and the movement for the gear change is not very big. If it is open so that road grime can contaminate the rollers the wear will be a lot faster. If you hardly use your bike it will be ok and a great talking point but if you tend to use it regularly DON'T DO IT, I have lent my bike over a few times to cure small leaks. Once I drained the cooling water and lent the bike right over to do some work on the clutch plates. It was still a bit messy though. Just my opinion 🤔 |
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Post by alankelly on Apr 7, 2019 16:33:06 GMT 1
Hi Tony Yes good point about the softer shaft running on the rollers The final assembly included a dust shield either side to keep the muck out  But think as it’s an very easy change I will turn up a phosphorus bronze bush this week and just swap it over Thanks again bud as your wise words are always welcome Best wishes Al |
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Post by bare on Apr 7, 2019 16:51:27 GMT 1
More than fair chance that bearing won't problematically wear the shift shaft in the bikes remaining Lifetime :-)
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 7, 2019 17:09:04 GMT 1
I just drilled out the original and bonded in a YPVS crankcase bush Steve  |
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Post by earthman on Apr 7, 2019 19:45:49 GMT 1
Tobyjugs, and anyone else for that matter, I don't think that you'll upset many on this forum, all thoughts, tips, ideas are welcome I'd say. At the end of the day we are all adults, what one personally does to their bike is up to them of course,......it's still good to know all the options. I like the bronze bushing idea the most so far,........did Yamaha not even think about the wear aspect of these parts back in the day I wonder? I guess that they didn't expect the whole bike to still be going all these years later.  |
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Post by steeley on Apr 7, 2019 21:23:33 GMT 1
Hi ,I have fitted the bush Norbo sells into the crank case of a 350lc engine I was rebuilding . First off I had a gear change shaft spare which had some bad wear in the area the seal runs so I welded that area up . Then I had the welded area machined back . I drilled the case first then reamed the hole to the final size . Made sure it all fitted and gears selected ok . The rest of the bike is still to be refurbished so wont know how oil tight it is in use . I have the bush mod to do on my own LC and reckon I can do it with out stripping the whole lump .
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murp
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 239
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Post by murp on Apr 20, 2019 9:42:44 GMT 1
I have bought the kit from the bloke on Ebay.... it's a tight fit and not a lot of meat around that area.... don't want to crack the crankcase.... has anyone who fitted this got any thoughts.... cheers
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murp
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 239
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Post by murp on Apr 20, 2019 11:14:45 GMT 1
panic over put it in freezer hit it with a wooden mallet.... job done .....phew
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Post by badger69 on May 29, 2021 13:17:01 GMT 1
Hi Another good fix / improvement if the gear shaft is moving within the case hole due to wear and you do not want to do a strip to bush the worn hole is if you have access to a local engineering works, is to bore out the outer case hole and fit a needle roller bearing in the outer case to support the outer end of the gear shaft and this will prevent it flexing sideways during a gear shift that then can cause a leak Best wishes Al |
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Post by badger69 on May 29, 2021 13:24:10 GMT 1
Hi Another good fix / improvement if the gear shaft is moving within the case hole due to wear and you do not want to do a strip to bush the worn hole is if you have access to a local engineering works, is to bore out the outer case hole and fit a needle roller bearing in the outer case to support the outer end of the gear shaft and this will prevent it flexing sideways during a gear shift that then can cause a leak Best wishes Al |
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Post by badger69 on May 29, 2021 13:28:54 GMT 1
Hi can you tell me where I can get this fix done, the casing on my LC has been welded and a sleeve put in where the seal should be, and the last scum bag owner put just enough oil in it so it would not leak onto the floor. Can you tell me where I can get this fix done, what size bush is it and how much did it cost to get it done, If I can't do this I will need to buy new engine casing, all help thanked.
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