500 front end change

[philmill]

So just curious about this, I have a RZ500 (47x) which I will get around to rebuilding one day, but I was just wondering if the RGV front end which is so popular on 350's is any good on the 500, I know lots of people use the R1 or FZR600 but not the RGV, what is the issue? my hybrid has VJ23 forks which have rebound and everything adjustments so I would have though they would be quite good. I'm asking partly because if the VJ23 forks would be a good choice I'll take them off the 350 and get a set of VJ22 or GSXR. 

Phil

[tacky1]

The 350 is a lot lighter than the 500, You would have to respring and revalve etc the RGV to work with the 500, I used a 2008 R6 front end on mine, All Balls do a bearing kit that allows it to bolt right in or Nigel at NK can make you the bits to bolt in either, I didn't have to mod the springs etc on the R6 as they weigh much the same..

[Deleted]

Costs is obviously a consideration. It all depends what you want and how much to spend, something that works, looks good or both. 1st thing to look at is the geometry. You need to maintain the rake, trail, the yoke offset from the stem, length of the fork itself, length of travel, front wheel size, then do you want radial or non-radial brakes. You can make anything fit but if it's the wrong fit the handling will be pants.

This might give you an idea of what will fit

i1.wp.com/oldskoolsuzuki.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Fork-Conversion-Details.jpg


In answer to your question about VJ22/VJ23 forks in an RD500 if you going to the trouble of swapping the front end, don't swap in something that is a 20+year design

Here's my Aprilia front end (cheap as it's non-radial) in one of my RGV hybrids



I also have VJ22 forks in 2 other 500's both have VJ22 bottoms and ZXR400L3 top's so I now have compression damping. Still missing rebound damping. The problem I have is that I brake really late and deep into corners, but as I'm too far into the bend when I release the brakes the lack of rebound damping makes the forks ping back up and I'm always running wide on the exits. If I brake earlier and get off the brakes sooner this wouldn't be a problem, but old habits die hard

[philmill]

Feb 13, 2019 20:15:47 GMT 1 mellorp23 said:

Costs is obviously a consideration. It all depends what you want and how much to spend, something that works, looks good or both. 1st thing to look at is the geometry. You need to maintain the rake, trail, the yoke offset from the stem, length of the fork itself, length of travel, front wheel size, then do you want radial or non-radial brakes. You can make anything fit but if it's the wrong fit the handling will be pants.

This might give you an idea of what will fit

i1.wp.com/oldskoolsuzuki.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Fork-Conversion-Details.jpg


In answer to your question about VJ22/VJ23 forks in an RD500 if you going to the trouble of swapping the front end, don't swap in something that is a 20+year design

Thanks, yes that does make a lot of sense, my Hybrid is a fun thing and a lot about looks, the 500 is a different animal, I dont want to look too modern though, but do want it to be worth the hassle.

Phil,

[Deleted]

If you can get a 17" wheel conversion, simply have the existing forks reworked by Maxton. They did my MC21 forks, threw away the internals and came back with all new internals with preload compression and rebound damping. They look like originals, but are absolutely brilliant. My MC21 handles like nothing else, only my TZ comes close

www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk/files/gp20.htm

[richb]

I've put a Thundercat 600 complete front end in mine as good as drops straight in just move expansion tank so sits on outside of mount and open up holes in ignition key housing. Proper brakes, decent tyres and not too bad a fork and if you want to keep not to modern works fine and also cost effective.

[rd84]

Racetech cartridge emulators in the original forks are pretty good - obviously the modern forks must be better - I just wanted to keep the original looks for my bike.

A few years ago the favorite conversion was 1990’s GSXR750 forks or Yamaha Thundercat which kept the speedo drive - nowadays 2CO R6

Cheers
Paul

[JonW]

Paul, when you fitted the emulators did you drill holes to remove the OEM damping like we do with the smaller bikes?

Also, Did you retain the anti dive?

I ask as I have a set of MikesXS emulators which im tempted to put in the 500... i spose what i really need is a guide to fitting lol

[tacky1]

Jon, I use the same emulators on my bike, I drilled mine out as per the instructions, My RZ350 and RZV500 both use them...

[tacky1]

[JonW]

Cool thanks, which instructions did you use?

[rd84]

Feb 18, 2019 2:05:39 GMT 1 JonW said:

Paul, when you fitted the emulators did you drill holes to remove the OEM damping like we do with the smaller bikes?

Also, Did you retain the anti dive?

I ask as I have a set of MikesXS emulators which im tempted to put in the 500... i spose what i really need is a guide to fitting lol

Hi -

The drilling of the original dampers as instructed by the Racetech instructions removes the original damping and the emulators then takeover the job of the original dampers- As far as I can tell I think this means that the anti-dives even if connected no longer do anything - I left mine connected for appearance only.

The Racetech emulators are really good - I used 10w oil in mine - For those in the UK I can recommend PDQ to supply the emulators, oil and springs - I then went one better and went to 100% Suspension to refine the setup and tune the new setup with fork spacers and oil weight - if the RD500 forks had preload and damping adjusters life would have been much easier of course ! Out of the box the stuff supplied by PDQ for home fitting was very good - the extra tuning by 100% Suspension raised it to an higher level again- all money well spent - both lots of modification
made a big difference to the handling.

I would say start off with a lighter fork oil then go heavier if you have to.

Cheers
Paul

[JonW]

Thats great, Thanks mate!

[tacky1]

Sorry, As Paul said, I used racetech instructions and went with 15w oil, Work great, I left the anti-dive connected for looks..

[JonW]

Does anyone have a copy they can photgraph or scan of the 500 instructions, or are they the same as the 350?

[tacky1]

This is the instructions I used Jon, I did this on My RZV500 and RG500, Both work great, I did use 15w oil in them though,

racetech.com/page/title/DRod%205-1