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Post by marrcel on Aug 17, 2018 15:10:06 GMT 1
Before i l start off. I wish i had a specialist like Arrow in Holland. So i got curious about the oilpump. I have one spair so i took the non return valves apart. Not spliting the pump but just the nrv’s. Anyway my restomod on a 31k is a pita. Fouling plugs and jetting a maze. Colour now ok. But still fouling. After replacing coils and plug caps cleaning al electrical joints i found out that its getting to much oil. So i did a 12hour siphoning test on the oil lines with old photo canisters.  And right  A few milli liters or so on both sides. First took the nrv’s of my spairpump apart and after that my old one too. On this picture you cant see the spring at all. It is hidding loaded gummed up in the housing.  And now unloaded i had to scrape some gum away.  Here a picture from the spring out.  Well i cleaned it all. I noticed that the seats for the ballvalves differ. Old one 31k is blueish and 1ww valveseat is black. Looking forward to my next test ride. 😎 |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 17, 2018 15:59:09 GMT 1
If you are fouling check the pulley slides back forward when the throttle is closed
The pulley can return but sticks on full stroke
Post to UK is cheap 😉
Steve
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Post by marrcel on Aug 17, 2018 21:01:20 GMT 1
If you are fouling check the pulley slides back forward when the throttle is closed The pulley can return but sticks on full stroke Post to UK is cheap 😉 Steve OK thank you thats new to me. Maybe it explains some of the fouling. Can that be checked when the engine is not running? I will check that tomorrow. If the fouling keeps coming back it is an explaination. But how long stays a puddle of oil in the crankcase? Is it gone in 15 minutes? If it is sticking yes i will ask for Arrow👍 |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 17, 2018 21:12:32 GMT 1
Yes it will be obvious, even if it is not running
My pump used to pass. Was like a smokescreen for the first quarter mile
Never fouled though
Steve
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Post by arrow on Aug 17, 2018 23:01:11 GMT 1
I'm intrigued by what you mean here, re. valve seat colours. All the valve seats are the same from around 1974 to around 1998.
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Post by earthman on Aug 18, 2018 7:05:21 GMT 1
I,m intrigued too,....thanks for posting those pictures marrcel, may help me if/when I have to take mine apart.  |
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Post by marrcel on Aug 18, 2018 8:33:43 GMT 1
Ok first the 31k 1983 pump valve seat. A bit blueish.  The 1ww valve seat:  May be the differences in oil explanes it? 31k red oil and the 1ww pale. |
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Post by marrcel on Aug 18, 2018 9:44:43 GMT 1
A video of the pulley. I think the pulley slides flawless in and out. But may be i look at the wrong part🤭
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 18, 2018 10:13:40 GMT 1
Not sure without checking but I think the rod should move in freely when the cam is operated.
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Post by arrow on Aug 18, 2018 10:33:14 GMT 1
Not sure without checking but I think the rod should move in freely when the cam is operated. It's probably in the fully out position after checking the minimum stroke. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 18, 2018 11:02:50 GMT 1
A video of the pulley. I think the pulley slides flawless in and out. But may be i look at the wrong part🤭 Yes looks fine I had one that stayed back when the pulley returned Steve |
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Post by stusco on Aug 18, 2018 11:12:33 GMT 1
Ok first the 31k 1983 pump valve seat. A bit blueish. The 1ww valve seat: May be the differences in oil explanes it? 31k red oil and the 1ww pale. Maybe it was run on duckums two stroke excuse the spelling |
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Post by marrcel on Aug 18, 2018 15:03:07 GMT 1
Well the current red oil i use has some blueish film on it. You dont see it on a thin layer but on a thicker layer you see it.
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