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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 15:38:01 GMT 1
What fastener do you use to rebuild the clutch after drilling out the rivets to replace the dampers
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Post by markhoopy on Jun 20, 2018 16:07:15 GMT 1
New rivets I would think.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jun 20, 2018 16:43:03 GMT 1
If u using a basket that uses screws use Loctite Red...
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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 16:50:03 GMT 1
Original basket so it will be rivets anyone done this and know what to buy
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Post by oldelsieboy on Jun 20, 2018 17:43:08 GMT 1
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jun 20, 2018 17:47:06 GMT 1
Wow , there a lot cheaper than the ones from Nova ( took down me offer of Nova rivets :o ) |
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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 17:55:47 GMT 1
Thanks oeb just ordered some the postage is more than the rivets. anyone done this ,what did you use to form the rivet,I’ve only ever riveted into counter sunk holes |
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Post by oldelsieboy on Jun 20, 2018 18:00:01 GMT 1
Thanks oeb just ordered some the postage is more than the rivets. anyone done this ,what did you use to form the rivet,I’ve only ever riveted into counter sunk holes The LC Club Summer 2016 magazine has a write up by Stan Stephens on changing the clutch rubbers & re-riveting the basket. OEB |
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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 18:08:07 GMT 1
I’ll look it up
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jun 20, 2018 18:08:21 GMT 1
u temper the end of the rivet with a ball pien hammer causing it too spread n curl over at end , can also be easily done in a 6t press , that's how my TZ Basket was done....
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 20, 2018 18:43:50 GMT 1
Done it a few times now. I use a pin punch the same diameter as the counter sunk head, held vey tight in a big vice and a hammer. I rest the clutch and countersunk rivet head on the on the pin punch and then strike first with the flat head of the ball pein hammer on the open end of the rivet. Once the rivet is deformed i use the round head of the hammer. Be careful not to rivet it to much with the round part as you can cause fractures in the deformed part. This could lead to tiny parts of the rivet braking up later when the engine is running.
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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 18:49:21 GMT 1
I’m sure when I did this during my apprenticeship we had a former, that’s why I asked but the old fashioned way is more my style I love hitting things with my favourite hammer,I think there is a formula for working out how much of the rivet sticks out of the hole in the back of a zeus book.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 20, 2018 18:56:45 GMT 1
I still use mine now and again. I feel comfortable with it. Most of my colleagues laugh and google for the info with their telephones. Still got all my radius and thread gauges as well. I have only made a former for riveting chains
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Post by jon on Jun 20, 2018 19:08:44 GMT 1
I’m sure when I did this during my apprenticeship we had a former, that’s why I asked but the old fashioned way is more my style I love hitting things with my favourite hammer,I think there is a formula for working out how much of the rivet sticks out of the hole in the back of a zeus book. I did that in my apprenticeship too. You are talking about a snap and dolly. From memory the snap is the piece you hit with a hammer, and the dolley holds the river. This is for round headed rivets, so you won’t need the dolley. The formula is to have the correct volume of metal in the river protruding so you get a nicely formed dome. Jon |
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jun 20, 2018 19:16:30 GMT 1
Most rivets are far too long to begin with ( different suppliers diff length ) makes job a lot easier too cut down to more suitable length before u start... Atb with it bud , u could always take pics as u go along make your own how too thread too help others who fancy a pop themselves at some point...
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Post by stusco on Jun 20, 2018 21:58:12 GMT 1
I’m sure when I did this during my apprenticeship we had a former, that’s why I asked but the old fashioned way is more my style I love hitting things with my favourite hammer,I think there is a formula for working out how much of the rivet sticks out of the hole in the back of a zeus book. I did that in my apprenticeship too. You are talking about a snap and dolly. From memory the snap is the piece you hit with a hammer, and the dolley holds the river. This is for round headed rivets, so you won’t need the dolley. The formula is to have the correct volume of metal in the river protruding so you get a nicely formed dome. Jon Your probably right it was in 1984 so I can’t quite remember the details |
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 21, 2018 8:11:38 GMT 1
rivet should protude through the hole at 1.5 to 2.0 times the diameter of the rivet, then using the snap it should form the domed head correctly
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Post by bare on Jun 21, 2018 20:47:36 GMT 1
Mere Curiusity? Were the oem Rubbers damaged in any way?
Asking as I've Personally Not seen any that were. Although I'd imagine it does happen... sometimes.
IMO replacing those rubbers is naivety of the OEM setup.. which is intended for 4 to 6 mm of rotational play.
That's why the oem rubber discs are in 2 sizes.
Adding insult to injury: aftermarket rubbers have v short lives compared to the Yama ones.
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Post by bazzer5115 on Jun 21, 2018 22:12:20 GMT 1
Well they do go,when I ground my rivots off to fit straight cut primary gears 2 of the rubbers had completely broken up!
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