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Post by mollers on Apr 25, 2018 14:19:16 GMT 1
Afternoon to all
A question for the clutch guru's please chaps.
Just trying to understand an issue I have with my 4L0 clutch on a technical level. I have the old dreaded neutral selection issue, with it being nearly impossible to select neutral when the motor has warmed up and done a few miles. Turn the engine off and its a piece of cake. Thought it was the oil so I changed that, checked the adjustment and done the star mod as well. After I had done this, the gear and neutral selection was a lot smoother and very light on the foot until......... it had done a few miles and then gear change stayed the same but selecting neutral was nearly impossible.
I have read all the related posts covering different oils, clutch adjustment, star mod etc but struggling to understand the issue in my simple mind .
Could someone explain in little words why the issue occurs only when the engine has done a mile or two and warmed up is it an expansion of the friction plates under heat causing issues or something like that ?
My bike has a new genuine yam gear selector rod, clutch cable, all new washers and bearings on the selector drum, friction plates within service limit, steel discs no warpage, new ball bearing and springs, star mod done. Clutch basket has hardly any wear marks. Rubber damper rings fitted. EP80w-90 GL4 oil (was using motul previously)
Was going strip it down again this weekend and try removing the rubber dampers and reset everything ?
Any advice very very welcome
Cheers all
Mollers
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Post by rigga on Apr 25, 2018 15:39:23 GMT 1
Remove the damper rings.
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Post by beardy on Apr 25, 2018 16:04:22 GMT 1
i`m not a clutch guru, so please ignore all i say if not relevant, but these are my thoughts. your choice of gear oil, ep80/90 is what i`d put in a landrover diff. personally i`d use 10/40. (i know i`m opening a can of worms here) have you adjusted the screw and nut thing behind the clutch cover. screwing one way or another will centralise the gear change pawl? throw the dampers away as others have said. good luck
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 25, 2018 17:54:37 GMT 1
I have an engine which has a slick gear change. The gear selector shaft was grooved so I changed it for another which was ok. It also changed gear ok until it was warm. when it was warm it would change up gears but not back down. I put another shaft in and it was ok again
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Post by earthman on Apr 25, 2018 19:54:55 GMT 1
I recently learnt that Stan Stevens uses 10w/40 oil, Haynes manual states 10w/30 so I personally wouldn't use a gear oil instead.
I have the same neutral finding problem, only experience it once the engine has warmed up, a new clutch/oil were fitted before I bought the bike so I don't know the specifics, will get around to stripping the lot one day.
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Post by mollers on Apr 25, 2018 20:34:43 GMT 1
Thanks for the replies chaps. Will remove the rubbers,change the oil and reset everything and see how i get on.
Cheers all
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Post by shaunyb63 on Apr 26, 2018 16:24:05 GMT 1
Does anyone know what these damper rings are meant to do?....just what do they dampen? I bought some of norbos power plates and removed these rings,like you mollers I had the same problem, but I cannot say if it has cured the issue yet because the bike has not yet been run.Just hoping by removing the rings though that this doesn’t create another problem.!!
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Post by earthman on Apr 26, 2018 18:01:54 GMT 1
Does anyone know what these damper rings are meant to do?....just what do they dampen? I bought some of norbos power plates and removed these rings,like you mollers I had the same problem, but I cannot say if it has cured the issue yet because the bike has not yet been run.Just hoping by removing the rings though that this doesn’t create another problem.!! Good question and if they are the cause of the problem why aren't they causing problems with changing up or down through the rest of the gears??
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Post by Gitram on Apr 27, 2018 16:58:47 GMT 1
I had refitted the rubber rings in one of my standard LC's (bought in boxes.. as usual) years ago and the clutch slipped, so I got on the phone to one of the more respected tuners (although I can't remember which one..) and i was advised to remove them. I did so and the clutch worked well afterwards, I can't remember if i had any neutral selecting issues though.. I always used 10/40 or whatever was the usual car engine oil of the time..
marti g.
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Post by mollers on Apr 27, 2018 19:00:44 GMT 1
Thanks to all. Rubbers out it is.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Apr 30, 2018 10:59:23 GMT 1
When you have removed the damper rings and then put it all back together let us know if it has cured the problem, would be nice to know for future reference....good luck!!
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