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Post by alistair64 on Apr 3, 2018 22:49:58 GMT 1
Hi All
Could someone please tell me if there is a satin black heat paint for barrels/crankcases which is actually satin black?
I have tried two now, one being Plastikote BBQ paint and another from Ebay (UCL satin black trade paint), both of which claim to give a nice satin sheen, but neither of them actually do.
The finish is distinctly matt in both cases, even though they were applied at room temperature and baked in the oven afterwards.
Thanks.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Apr 3, 2018 23:21:30 GMT 1
To be honest the paint nowadays is not what it used to be , I’m taking my 250 Lc engine cases to triple s powder Coaters in Bingley,West Yorkshire tomorrow be blasted and powder coated in satin black,the sample he showed me in the shop looks real nice, and is a proper satin finish, and according to form this guy seems to have a real good reputation.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2018 10:37:15 GMT 1
Duplicolor Satin black in either ceramic or caliber paint
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Post by ianboom on Apr 4, 2018 11:11:13 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 4, 2018 11:13:30 GMT 1
Not found any but there is a way around it. First use matt black BBQ paint, then lacquer over with high heat gloss. Works a treat. And a lovely satin finish.
Alex
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 4, 2018 11:21:47 GMT 1
I found that if I baked the Plasticote BBQ paint in the oven for too long (more than say 45 mins) the finish does dull off, but if I keep below 45mins at say 130 degrees it seems to be ok.
Seems like a cookery programme hey!
If the do matt off, i simple spray a little Autoglym vinyl and rubber care to give them a bit more sheen.
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Post by johnnytheboy on Apr 4, 2018 12:02:18 GMT 1
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2018 12:11:42 GMT 1
Duplicolor Satin black in either ceramic or caliber paint this is dupli colour semi gloss with ceramic. i cooked it in the oven afterwoods.  |
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Post by sbscnor on Apr 4, 2018 12:50:08 GMT 1
I’m taking my 250 Lc engine cases to triple s powder Coaters in Bingley,West Yorkshire. I have used Triple S many times over the years for my LC's outer engine cases and brake parts ALWAYS a first class not the cheapest but definitely one of the best. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2018 13:54:24 GMT 1
Hi johnny
I work for Wurth and unfortunately that paint isn't heat proof
The one we have that is heat proof is a matt black
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Post by johnnytheboy on Apr 4, 2018 17:49:39 GMT 1
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Post by alistair64 on Apr 4, 2018 22:10:01 GMT 1
Many thanks for all your replies guys, really appreciate it.
Some very good suggestions as always on this site.
Not sure which route to go down yet, but might try a light coat of lacquer over the top first as I have some in the garage.
Must admit to not having had much luck with lacquer in the past as it seems to run very easily, so will need to be careful.
Also, never been impressed with the finish, as it seems to leave a very rough surface from an aerosol compared to other modern paints, so will probably need flatting back - not so easy on aircooled barrels!
If no good, can always spray over with one of the other options.
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Post by bare on Apr 5, 2018 3:20:21 GMT 1
Do whatever you wish ..
BUT Our engines Do Not require Heat paint.
Few engines actually do. Regular paint is good for temps wayyy beyond what a Normal engine operates at.
Also with 'normal' paint it serves as a telltale. Giving direct evidence of Massive overheat.
IF the owner is dimly unaware/in any doubt :-)
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Post by alistair64 on Apr 6, 2018 21:40:44 GMT 1
Do whatever you wish .. BUT Our engines Do Not require Heat paint. Few engines actually do. Regular paint is good for temps wayyy beyond what a Normal engine operates at. Also with 'normal' paint it serves as a telltale. Giving direct evidence of Massive overheat. IF the owner is dimly unaware/in any doubt :-) Normally would agree with you, bare, but not on this occasion. In the past I have sprayed the coolant stub at the back of the cylinder head on a PV with standard paint, thinking I'd get away with it. However, it bubbled up in no time and we're not even talking about the extremes of temperature here. |
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Post by bare on Apr 7, 2018 18:21:56 GMT 1
Suspect a Genuine problem in there somewhere...
Bad paint, poorly prepped surface, OR a significant localised Heat problem
It's normal practice to spritz Competition engines with Cheap rattle can paint, Specifically for their lowish heat resistance/ Telltale properties.
Overheat (even according to Yama Sans' official pronouncements) is 85C.
Beyond that.. Water isn't going to go much above 150C..Unless a Steam engine
Damaged paint.. anywhere... on the engine (beyond ex plumbings) indicates a Genuine Heat problem needing immediate
repair
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Post by bazzer5115 on Apr 7, 2018 22:16:14 GMT 1
I with bare on this one.Have sprayed loads of engine cases with normal (non heat proof) paint.
Even on my track bikes(4strokes)the cases get so hot you could hardly touch them for a split second.
More important on these lc’s & ypvs’s is make sure it petrol proof(I use 2k in rattle can)
Because as soon as you start getting the jetting correct any petrol spills very,very likely to damage the paint
As with any painting make sure you key the surface correctly.
Baz
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