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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 7, 2018 7:53:42 GMT 1
I'm starting to acquire things for my rebuild and came across this "PlastiKote Engine Enamel Black" paint. It says that it's oil and petrol resistant. Has anyone tried it? And if so, was it any good?  IMG_20180307_183045 |
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 7, 2018 8:55:27 GMT 1
Hi I've not used the Plasticoat paint, but I used Hycote from Halfords. Really impressed with it. Totally petrol resistant - I tried to wash it off with petrol and a nylon brush, and it wouldn't budge - wouldn't even take the shine off !!;  20170304_094812_zpsbgusrorb by David Miller, on Flickr  20180122_163933 by David Miller, on Flickr Refreshing to find something that's as good as it should be. Dusty  |
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Post by fozzy17 on Mar 7, 2018 9:00:49 GMT 1
used the plasticoat lots of times great stuff, used to buy it cheap in my local what shop, never tried it on a engine though
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 7, 2018 9:10:03 GMT 1
I use PlastiKote BBQ Spray Paint on my 250 and 350 4L1/4L0 barrels/heads etc as it gives a more realistic satin finish for these bikes.
The YPVS engines are normally a gloss finish so the recommendations above look great. The Hycote one looks like a very good high gloss finish, and the "PlastiKote Engine Enamel Black" looks like a gloss but not as glossy!
I usually bake the PlastiKote BBQ in the oven for 45 mins after painting.
They don't advertise it as fuel proof, but so far I've not had a problem and have leaked fuel on to it a few times without any noticeable damage.
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Post by reggieperrin on Mar 7, 2018 11:52:00 GMT 1
I couldn't find the Hycote paint at weekend..
It appears not all the Halfords stores stock it..
Going to have a look at Amazon when I get some time..
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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 8, 2018 0:32:05 GMT 1
Good to know that the PlastiKote BBQ paint is fuel proof. It is for an LC so was a bit concerned the one above would be gloss and not satin. I have some of the BBQ paint and was going to use this on the exhausts until I saw that you have to cure it! They're too big for the oven so was wondering if you can cure it with a heat gun or hairdryer.
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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 8, 2018 0:33:36 GMT 1
That gloss head looks amazing Dusty!
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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 8, 2018 0:38:23 GMT 1
Was wondering what "head blazed" was Phil38? Bead blasted?
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Post by 17again on Mar 8, 2018 9:34:06 GMT 1
could i use use print stripper to get the paint off my head & barrels or would i need to get them blasted?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2018 15:10:37 GMT 1
Depends on the type of paint stripper
If it contains Sodium Hydroxide aka Caustic Soda then I wouldnt used it, you will finD your head will start dissolving, ally doesnt like caustic or acid for that matter
If it contains strong alkali then I’d avoid that one too, you want the methylene chloride one, however I think it’s banned in th3 UK
I bead blasted both of mine then painted with high temp ceramic paint from duplicolor
I don’t think we can get Hycote down here
Now edited with letters instead of numbers, stupid new iPad
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 8, 2018 17:03:51 GMT 1
Good to know that the PlastiKote BBQ paint is fuel proof. It is for an LC so was a bit concerned the one above would be gloss and not satin. I have some of the BBQ paint and was going to use this on the exhausts until I saw that you have to cure it! They're too big for the oven so was wondering if you can cure it with a heat gun or hairdryer. A hair dryer probably wouldn't get hot enough but you could use a heat gun down the exhaust head end, but why don't you fit the exhausts to the bike and run the engine for 45 mins to cure them instead? |
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Post by 17again on Mar 8, 2018 17:04:08 GMT 1
thanks mate.
think i will have to get them blasted then.
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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 9, 2018 7:38:08 GMT 1
Good to know that the PlastiKote BBQ paint is fuel proof. It is for an LC so was a bit concerned the one above would be gloss and not satin. I have some of the BBQ paint and was going to use this on the exhausts until I saw that you have to cure it! They're too big for the oven so was wondering if you can cure it with a heat gun or hairdryer. A hair dryer probably wouldn't get hot enough but you could use a heat gun down the exhaust head end, but why don't you fit the exhausts to the bike and run the engine for 45 mins to cure them instead? I'm doing a full rebuild and saw that the paint had to be cured in a certain time after application (ie, not long). I wanted to do all the hot bits at the same time and then build the bike up. I've got a shipment of stuff for the rebuild coming over from the UK which is due at the end of March and was trying to get ahead by doing a bit now. I'll be starting a rebuild thread soon! Thanks for your help and advice Shaun. No doubt there'll be a thousand questions along the way! |
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 9, 2018 8:30:09 GMT 1
You could try a wire wheel in a drill to remove paint. Worked a treat on my lc head.
Dusty😁
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Post by phil5e0 on Mar 9, 2018 8:51:36 GMT 1
You could try a wire wheel in a drill to remove paint. Worked a treat on my lc head. Dusty😁 That's what I'm gonna do. |
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Post by simon998 on Mar 9, 2018 10:08:31 GMT 1
Be careful when you're wire wheeling the cases/head. Mine was a bit too rough and it scored the cast pretty badly, After that I used a tiny bit of WD40 sprayed onto the wire wheel directly and it made it a lot better.
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
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Post by phil38 on Mar 9, 2018 15:53:29 GMT 1
Was wondering what "head blazed" was Phil38? Bead blasted? Yes! Bloody auto correct iPhone ! |
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
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Post by phil38 on Mar 9, 2018 16:03:59 GMT 1
Good to know that the PlastiKote BBQ paint is fuel proof. It is for an LC so was a bit concerned the one above would be gloss and not satin. I have some of the BBQ paint and was going to use this on the exhausts until I saw that you have to cure it! They're too big for the oven so was wondering if you can cure it with a heat gun or hairdryer. You can cure them with a hot air gun but make sure they’re burnt out first or you’ll burn your house down. Hot air gun is also good for decoking!   |
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Post by trowsertrumpet on Mar 10, 2018 12:49:06 GMT 1
that looks a bit severe? does it do the job or is there any other way ?
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
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Post by phil38 on Mar 10, 2018 21:13:17 GMT 1
that looks a bit severe? does it do the job or is there any other way ? For curing the pipes after painting it’s the only way without a massive oven or being able to bolt them on and ride immediately. It’s not severe as the hot air gun is colder than exhaust gasses. The reason they go nuts in the decoking picture is that there’s loads of oxygen in the hot air and loads of fuel in terms of 20 years worth of oily carbon so you get a massive exothermic reaction. A good way to decide if you’re repainting anyway, but beware things can melt! Did this on a set of microns too, they needed rechroming anyway, but now even more so. |
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
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Post by phil38 on Mar 10, 2018 21:14:16 GMT 1
Decide = decoke. Sodding iPhone again!
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Post by 17again on Mar 18, 2018 18:50:01 GMT 1
have people use these paints in the cold? it says to use between 15 to 25 degrees.
pj1 says dont use unless its 21 degrees!
it will need to be the hottest day of the year to paint them.
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Post by 46ob on Mar 18, 2018 20:03:31 GMT 1
I Was wondering,my left hand engine casing is showing some paint wear & needs a respray so when using either Hycote or plasticote
do you use a primer first or just spray on neat & how many coats for a decent finish?
Cheers,
46ob
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spaman7
Newbe
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Post by spaman7 on Mar 28, 2018 22:06:02 GMT 1
I use PlastiKote BBQ Spray Paint on my 250 and 350 4L1/4L0 barrels/heads etc as it gives a more realistic satin finish for these bikes. The YPVS engines are normally a gloss finish so the recommendations above look great. The Hycote one looks like a very good high gloss finish, and the "PlastiKote Engine Enamel Black" looks like a gloss but not as glossy! I usually bake the PlastiKote BBQ in the oven for 45 mins after painting. They don't advertise it as fuel proof, but so far I've not had a problem and have leaked fuel on to it a few times without any noticeable damage. Hi, Where are the markings 4L1 displayed on a 250 LC? thanks |
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Post by oldelsieboy on Mar 28, 2018 22:17:25 GMT 1
I use PlastiKote BBQ Spray Paint on my 250 and 350 4L1/4L0 barrels/heads etc as it gives a more realistic satin finish for these bikes. The YPVS engines are normally a gloss finish so the recommendations above look great. The Hycote one looks like a very good high gloss finish, and the "PlastiKote Engine Enamel Black" looks like a gloss but not as glossy! I usually bake the PlastiKote BBQ in the oven for 45 mins after painting. They don't advertise it as fuel proof, but so far I've not had a problem and have leaked fuel on to it a few times without any noticeable damage. Hi, Where are the markings 4L1 displayed on a 250 LC? thanks On the side of the inlet ports on the barrels. OEB |
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spaman7
Newbe
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Posts: 8
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Post by spaman7 on Mar 28, 2018 22:20:14 GMT 1
Hi, Where are the markings 4L1 displayed on a 250 LC? thanks On the side of the inlet ports on the barrels. OEB Cheers. Mine say 4LO but I am trying to find out if it’s been converted from a 250 to 350 |
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Post by dangerousal on Apr 3, 2018 11:12:44 GMT 1
used the plasticoat lots of times great stuff, used to buy it cheap in my local what shop, never tried it on a engine though I bought some of this and I did a second coat after the first coat dried....and got some areas of reaction....may be due to me not degreasing properly...but just a heads up if anyone is going to use it...do one good coat |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 12, 2018 9:07:55 GMT 1
In case anyone's interested, I decided to do a paint test on an off-cut of aluminium. The half near the pointy end is Hammerite Smooth Black, the other half is Simoniz Engine Enamel gloss black. Both give a really good finish, very similar to the original engine cases but slightly more shiny. After spraying two coats, one half an hour after the other, I left it to air dry for two days, I then baked it in the oven (from cold) at 50 degrees for 20 minutes then turned it up to 80 degrees for a further 15 minutes then left it in the oven to cool overnight. This morning, both paints were very hard and neither had suffered at all from being baked. The Hammerite scraped off with a thumbnail fairly easily and while the Simoniz did the same, it needed much firmer pressure and I think will be far more durable, this is the one I will use. The aluminium I painted was degreased with brake cleaner but not keyed, so on a keyed surface the adhesion should be really good. 
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