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Post by earthman on Mar 9, 2018 22:13:20 GMT 1
Interesting debate that will go on and on no doubt. I see that Norbo lists/sells Motul Transoil in 10W30 and 10w40 form, is this more of an 'engine' oil or 'transmission' oil? I'm just wondering what the majority of 'LC specialists' recommend to use (anyone got Stan Stevens phone number),....no offence to anyone who uses/sticks with a 'gear' oil,......how did that option come about in the first place when Haynes manual clearly states 10w/30 engine oil.
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Post by Jethro5 on Mar 10, 2018 4:00:36 GMT 1
This spec sheet is for Motorex gear oil developed for 2 stroke motorcycles. Interestingly if gives an SAE rating of 10W/30 and 80W/85 (assume motor oil and gear oil rating). I think any motor oil with the JASO MA certification which is the Japanese spec for wet clutch motorcycles is definitely ok but something like this might be worth trying to see if there is any noticeable difference in change action.
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Post by jon on Mar 10, 2018 9:31:40 GMT 1
Jon, I would be wary of using any EP oil in a bike that uses the gearbox oil to lube the clutch. As I understand it they are formulated for the Extreme Pressures between gears and will cause incurable clutch slip. This lore dates back to my British bike days and things may of course have changed. If not, most economy engine oils will be ok, my valve has done 45k miles in my ownership without dedicated gear oil and I've never had any box or clutch problems. Yamaha boxes are well made and robust. Nampo, I hear what you are saying about E.P. oil. You hear so many conflicting stories about friction modifiers in wet clutches. Some say they’ve been using them for years without any slippage. Some say they slip immediate after using them. With this in mind some suggest that if the clutch slips using an oil with friction modifiers then the clutch is questionable anyway. I’ve heard that some oils recommended/supplied by bike manufacturers have friction modifiers in them? I must admit I haven’t tried it myself, but was going on a forum member on here that has and said it worked really well. Let’s bear in mind also what this oil is doing. It’s at a conflict between providing maximum frictionless properties for the gears, but not the clutch plates. I must admit you’ve got me in two minds now whether to use it? However I’m just putting together my YPVS engine, and always like to change the oil very soon after a build (maybe 250 miles or so) to dump any metal particles that may have occurred due to the new/replaced parts that have meshed themselves together. It might be a good opportunity to see. Jon
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Post by earthman on Mar 10, 2018 20:39:27 GMT 1
This spec sheet is for Motorex gear oil developed for 2 stroke motorcycles. Interestingly if gives an SAE rating of 10W/30 and 80W/85 (assume motor oil and gear oil rating). I think any motor oil with the JASO MA certification which is the Japanese spec for wet clutch motorcycles is definitely ok but something like this might be worth trying to see if there is any noticeable difference in change action. Thanks, very interesting that,......over the years I've kind of stuck with Castrol oils/products in general, I see that their 10w/30 semi synthetic motorcycle oil is JASO MA2 rated, wondering what the '2' meant, I found this: www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/What%20is%20the%20Difference%20between%20JASO%20MA%20and%20JASO%20MB.pdf
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Post by earthman on Apr 15, 2018 19:46:19 GMT 1
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Post by bezzer on Apr 16, 2018 6:56:31 GMT 1
There’s your answer then earthman 😁👍🏻
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