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Post by wangwang on Feb 17, 2018 21:13:12 GMT 1
I know this adjusts for some reason and I know it's supposed to be in the centre of the shift shaft mechanism. Is it there just to hold the tab in place?   |
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 17, 2018 21:44:14 GMT 1
Hi Turning the screw adjusts the pawl "claws" that act on the selector drum. The claws need to be set an equal distance from the pins on the end of the drum, and turning this sets them. You then tighten the lock nut. Dusty  |
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 17, 2018 22:07:10 GMT 1
Yes as Dusty said, I did wonder if this had something to do with peoples 'neutral selection' problems. Had a couple of engines where it's been removed and bashed about, I'd have thought once set, it shouldn't need adjusting again?
It should also centralise the selector between the two spring tangs, but as Dusty's explanation reads, it probably can't do one without the other?
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Post by jon on Feb 18, 2018 8:36:07 GMT 1
Yes as Dusty said, I did wonder if this had something to do with peoples 'neutral selection' problems. Had a couple of engines where it's been removed and bashed about, I'd have thought once set, it shouldn't need adjusting again? It should also centralise the selector between the two spring tangs, but as Dusty's explanation reads, it probably can't do one without the other? In theory it shouldn’t need adjusting again, however well worth a check before refitting the clutch, especially after replacing a gear selector shaft for a new one. Jon |
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 18, 2018 12:52:18 GMT 1
The screw is eccentric, so as you turn it, it moves like a buckled wheel. It has to be rotated until you get even spacing between the claws on the end of the gear selector shaft and the pins on the gear selector drum. Worth checking if your engine is apart.
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 18, 2018 13:49:38 GMT 1
Always worth checking the condition of the screw when you have the chance. In my lc engine, the spring arms that touch the sides of the screw had worn grooves into it, and would have affected adjustment. All the parts in wangs pics were available new from Yamaha for not a lot of money.
Dusty
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Post by wangwang on Feb 18, 2018 14:19:50 GMT 1
Always worth checking the condition of the screw when you have the chance. In my lc engine, the spring arms that touch the sides of the screw had worn grooves into it, and would have affected adjustment. All the parts in wangs pics were available new from Yamaha for not a lot of money. Dusty I've just done it, realised that the old screw had big grooves in it, now I know why it wasn't adjusting jack all, lol.  |
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Post by lcyoungboy on Feb 19, 2018 23:10:49 GMT 1
My lc can be hard to get neutral sometimes..actualky kinda annoying..will have to look into this and make sure it's adjusted properly
Dave
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 20, 2018 10:53:26 GMT 1
My LC has this screw adjusted correctly, but still struggles to get neutral, so I don't think it affects getting neutral too much. The main issue for getting neutral seams to be related to clutch drag, which can be down to oil type, or non-flat clutch plates (cork and metal plates), and maybe notches in the basket, but this would affect all clutch use. Stiff clutch lever can be related to the cable too, as I have found that only OEM cables give an easy pull. You can make the clutch pull easier by modifying the clutch actuating arm by extending it about 10mm. Make it loads easier.
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Post by doohanno1 on Mar 21, 2018 0:34:27 GMT 1
My LC has this screw adjusted correctly, but still struggles to get neutral, so I don't think it affects getting neutral too much. The main issue for getting neutral seams to be related to clutch drag, which can be down to oil type, or non-flat clutch plates (cork and metal plates), and maybe notches in the basket, but this would affect all clutch use. Stiff clutch lever can be related to the cable too, as I have found that only OEM cables give an easy pull. You can make the clutch pull easier by modifying the clutch actuating arm by extending it about 10mm. Make it loads easier. How do you extend it.? Does the cable not take a slightly different route tben.? |
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Post by earthman on Mar 21, 2018 8:33:43 GMT 1
Anyone got a figure of what the clutch pull should be? I fitted an OEM cable a few weeks back but the lever feels heavy to me. I have a spring balance some where, will try and report back with a figure.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2018 14:14:01 GMT 1
Another thing learnt, thanks guys
replaced my shift shaft with a brand newy and the gearbox jammed, thought it was just the sharpness of the new teeth on the shift shaft, i thinks it the eccentric adjustment
Ripped the new one out and replaced with the old one, 4 years ago
I'll put the new one in on the new engine for the F1 and adjust as described
Top lot you lot are
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Post by 4l04ever on Mar 21, 2018 14:20:10 GMT 1
My LC has this screw adjusted correctly, but still struggles to get neutral, so I don't think it affects getting neutral too much. The main issue for getting neutral seams to be related to clutch drag, which can be down to oil type, or non-flat clutch plates (cork and metal plates), and maybe notches in the basket, but this would affect all clutch use. Stiff clutch lever can be related to the cable too, as I have found that only OEM cables give an easy pull. You can make the clutch pull easier by modifying the clutch actuating arm by extending it about 10mm. Make it loads easier. How do you extend it.? Does the cable not take a slightly different route tben.? I cut through the arm part and welded in a 10mm piece to make it longer. The angle of the cable is not much different to standard. I have had this mod working on two LCs for a few years now without issue....just easier pull :-) |
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Post by JonW on Mar 22, 2018 23:33:28 GMT 1
An engine tuner once told me to adjust this to give as much positive aid to the upshift. He said 'no one wants to miss an upshift and no one cares if you do on the downshift' I reckon he had a point and Ive never had a problem set up like that.
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