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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 1, 2018 1:16:26 GMT 1
Happy New Year Everyone!..whereas once upon a time I'd be out in the streets up to no good....fast forward to 50 odd years old am in t'garage....to the point: the head came off quite easily....but the barrels want to stay where they are....for once I'm not being manic about it with crowbars or socket extensions and instead looking for hints from you learned gentlemen on how to get them off damage free? Ride safe in 2018.  |
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Post by JonW on Jan 1, 2018 1:24:35 GMT 1
HNY M8! Gentle taps with a rubber mallet will help loosen them, but never go mad with old cast materials.
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Post by mattybeckett on Jan 1, 2018 1:25:14 GMT 1
Slight tap with rubber mallet should do the job to break the base gaskets seal . Happy new year .
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 1, 2018 10:58:33 GMT 1
Happy new year. Yep taps with the rubber mallet will do nicely. Any visible damage yet?
Mark
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Post by liffy16 on Jan 1, 2018 13:04:45 GMT 1
As above just had this with a xt500 head corrosion on the dowels plenty of penetrating oil copper/hide mallet and patience !! good luck
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Post by Norbo on Jan 1, 2018 14:47:28 GMT 1
rubber mallet is what i use
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Post by lrcarl on Jan 1, 2018 14:48:24 GMT 1
rubber mallet is what i use |
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Post by abar121 on Jan 1, 2018 17:34:26 GMT 1
When a rubber mallet wouldn't do the job on my Kawa barrels, I had to put a strap through the exhaust port and around the frame top tube. Another around the flange for the inlet and a just a bit of tension. Nothing crazy though.
After about 30 mins sitting there, the barrel came off.
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 1, 2018 18:14:58 GMT 1
have been idly tapping them with the rubber mallet...no movement yet...doused it with WD last night so will be trying again today...all signs are the engine internals are in excellent condition....even the crankseals...which I am going in to replace...look great...piston & barrels appear original and in great nick. Original speedo reads 16,151km (it's a Canadian import).   |
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Post by mattybeckett on Jan 1, 2018 20:20:23 GMT 1
Could also try tapping in a wooden wedge between the two barrels on exhaust port side, then tap away gently on sides with rubber mallet. My 4L1 Head was a TNUC  To remove but eventually it came off with wedges. Guess you have squirted the penetrating fluid down the bolt holes? Good luck . |
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 1, 2018 21:15:58 GMT 1
Ah...fluid down bolt holes.....great idea. trying that now.
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Post by bezzer on Jan 1, 2018 22:20:49 GMT 1
Ah...fluid down bolt holes.....great idea. trying that now. Try Coca Cola down the head bolt holes, the mildly acidic formulation of the coke dissolves the oxidisation on the ally/steel. We used this trick to free a stuck Dolomite sprint cylinder head many years ago when I started in the garage 😊, best to leave over night to activate if possible. |
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 2, 2018 0:06:31 GMT 1
Any chance you could tell us what the crank primary number is in the picture and also the clutch primary gear number which is on the back of the basket gear, assuming your stripping it that far.
Cheers. Mark.
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 2, 2018 5:47:23 GMT 1
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 2, 2018 9:10:45 GMT 1
Thanks for that. If you give the basket primary gear a wipe along the back edge where the teeth are, as you've got it in the photo it will reveal the number faintly engraved. Add this number to the one on the crank primary and it will give you a total figure. Not sure what it is on an LC but on a ypvs it's 155 +/- 1. This is the two gears back lash number and it really needs to be specific for the motor to freely spind around with no bind as it left the factory. Just trying to find out what it should be on an LC, thought your motor looked as if it hadn't been be messed with so may give us an idea of the correct figure, crank primary looks like 90 in the pic?
Thanks
Mark.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2018 9:14:45 GMT 1
LC should add up to 155 +/- 1, same as YPVS.
Clutch number looks like it might be at 3 o'clock position on photo, but you have to look at the right angle in the right light to see it. Usually on the side of 3 consecutive teeth, and usually ends with a B, e.g. 64B...
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 2, 2018 20:56:32 GMT 1
enlisted the gfriend who claimed (I'm good at things like this) and even taking it outside into the super bright sunshine (-9º tho) does not reveal any engravings at all..... we even felt it all over. that's right.  |
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 2, 2018 21:07:15 GMT 1
in other news- after sitting overnight with the bolt holes full of the best penetrating fluid....the barrels don't want to part with the bottom end- for a second I thought I should just leave them there when I split the engine but....imagine trying to get the pistons back in... going to drain them bolt holes and get off to the shops know for some Coca-Cola.  |
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 2, 2018 21:12:12 GMT 1
Ok thanks for looking. Good luck with the rebuild, hopefully your'll get away with a very light hone and some new rings.
Mark.
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Post by kostas on Jan 2, 2018 21:36:58 GMT 1
Looks like the rubber mallet won’t be enough.
I would take on a hard plastic one (Teflon).
I would also try to tightly secure the engine on a bench or similar fixture. No point hammering something that can act as a suspension, you need to find a way to concentrate the force at the right spot.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 2, 2018 21:40:03 GMT 1
enlisted the gfriend who claimed (I'm good at things like this) and even taking it outside into the super bright sunshine (-9º tho) does not reveal any engravings at all..... we even felt it all over. that's right. Is it just me or if you zoom in it looks like 61B Steve |
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Post by kostas on Jan 2, 2018 21:40:48 GMT 1
enlisted the gfriend who claimed (I'm good at things like this) and even taking it outside into the super bright sunshine (-9º tho) does not reveal any engravings at all..... we even felt it all over. that's right. Are those engraved numbers on the teeth?  53F0292B-834F-44A0-BCAC-09B047DA2E32 by k.apostolopoulos, on Flickr Kostas |
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Post by stusco on Jan 2, 2018 21:41:35 GMT 1
enlisted the gfriend who claimed (I'm good at things like this) and even taking it outside into the super bright sunshine (-9º tho) does not reveal any engravings at all..... we even felt it all over. that's right. In the first photo of the clutch gear you can just see a “B”on a gear tooth just before 3o’clock the backlash number will be on the teeth in before the B |
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Post by kostas on Jan 2, 2018 21:42:42 GMT 1
Steve beat me to it!
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 2, 2018 21:52:58 GMT 1
enlisted the gfriend who claimed (I'm good at things like this) and even taking it outside into the super bright sunshine (-9º tho) does not reveal any engravings at all..... we even felt it all over. that's right. Is it just me or if you zoom in it looks like 61B Steve Looks like it to me as well |
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 2, 2018 22:12:26 GMT 1
I can't believe you chaps saw that! Of course I didn't read anything properly and was looking in the wrong place....on the plate...now I remember...3 teeth together....took me a while to find it even holding it right in front or my face. 61B it is.  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 2, 2018 22:25:13 GMT 1
According to my maths that makes 151 which goes with the theory that lc is smaller
Bloke I know has dealt in lc's for many years and assures me they never had an official numbering but were always smaller
Was ypvs manuals before the 155 was mentioned
Well according to him anyway
Steve
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 3, 2018 5:04:26 GMT 1
original taste. sweet dreams.  |
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 3, 2018 9:06:35 GMT 1
According to my maths that makes 151 which goes with the theory that lc is smaller Bloke I know has dealt in lc's for many years and assures me they never had an official numbering but were always smaller Was ypvs manuals before the 155 was mentioned Well according to him anyway Steve Yamaha would not spend time/money measuring and engraving the backlash numbers on the gears if it was not needed. Every LC engine I have taken apart has numbers on both gears, so the measuring/engraving process was already in place before YPVS engines came around. YPVS and LC use the same crank primary gear and same clutch gear, so the backlash should be the same 155 +/- 1 :-) I have also seen bad combinations cause tight spots, so it is necessary to get the right combination. Check this thread :- rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/41949/crank-primaryjon may have a 94 Crank primary, which would match with your 61 clutch gear :-) |
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Post by hudtm60 on Jan 3, 2018 22:54:08 GMT 1
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To remove but eventually it came off with wedges. Guess you have squirted the penetrating fluid down the bolt holes? Good luck .
