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Post by chrisk01 on May 21, 2017 16:43:40 GMT 1
So the engine is running as expected and I'm carefully running it in. The guy who built up the engine said the clutch was okay so it wasn't replaced, so I've adjusted as best I can but it doesn't want to go into neutral once I stop, it's just a bit stuck, then goes up to second and I have to tap it down.
When I ran it for the first time I topped it up with sae 10/30 motor oil as per the book as it was a bit low - is this the best choice, should I drain/replace it to make sure it's all the same oil? I've heard of peope using ATF as an alternative?
Does this sound typical for a part worn clutch or something else maybe ?
chz
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antos
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 298 
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Post by antos on May 21, 2017 16:50:28 GMT 1
Hi mate there all a bit hard to get into neautral I'm afraid, I'm using solkolene light gear oil and it seems good👍
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 21, 2017 17:01:26 GMT 1
Yeah they are problematic when hot
Light gear oil seems to be the recommended choice
Steve
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Post by stusco on May 21, 2017 17:02:02 GMT 1
So the engine is running as expected and I'm carefully running it in. The guy who built up the engine said the clutch was okay so it wasn't replaced, so I've adjusted as best I can but it doesn't want to go into neutral once I stop, it's just a bit stuck, then goes up to second and I have to tap it down. When I ran it for the first time I topped it up with sae 10/30 motor oil as per the book as it was a bit low - is this the best choice, should I drain/replace it to make sure it's all the same oil? I've heard of peope using ATF as an alternative? Does this sound typical for a part worn clutch or something else maybe ? chz This is quite normal there is a few things that can be done try using gear oil first if that doesn't work it will involve removing the clutch casing |
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Post by marky350 on May 23, 2017 10:03:56 GMT 1
Hi, new here first post. I also have just rebuilt a YPVS F2. Its a little difficult to get in neutral but not too bad. Can anyone tell me recommended running in period and rev limits. Its had bottom end done, rebore etc.
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antos
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 298
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Post by antos on May 23, 2017 14:14:52 GMT 1
Everyone has different ideas I'm afraid, but from what I've read the rings are bedded in in the first 30 miles or so, this is the critical time to get a good seal, so up to say 6k shutting off throttle and letting it run down the revs apparently forces the rings out into the bores. I ran my new blade in this way and it never burnt a drop of oil! (Some did)
I've got 300 miles on my freshly rebuilt f2 and I'm taking it up to 7-8k now in short bursts. after 500 or so miles and it'll be getting caned 👍
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Post by marky350 on May 24, 2017 7:28:35 GMT 1
Everyone has different ideas I'm afraid, but from what I've read the rings are bedded in in the first 30 miles or so, this is the critical time to get a good seal, so up to say 6k shutting off throttle and letting it run down the revs apparently forces the rings out into the bores. I ran my new blade in this way and it never burnt a drop of oil! (Some did) I've got 300 miles on my freshly rebuilt f2 and I'm taking it up to 7-8k now in short bursts. after 500 or so miles and it'll be getting caned 👍 Thanks Antos, I have also just found the running in schedule suggested by Micro daddy here www.microdaddy.co.uk/norbo/html/extra%20info.html as you say different ideas. This one is a bit shorter 150miles for the first bit. Mine is running nice an smooth up to 4000rpm but hunts a bit around 5000rpm - a flat spot! Want to open it up more to drive through it but will just have to wait. Is your's the same? I've read some are. |
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Post by elliottles on May 24, 2017 8:23:00 GMT 1
hi,
had this clutch problem on mine too. couple of tests to see where the problem lies;-
if it will not go into neutral after you come to a standstill, kill the engine and then see if it snicks in easily, if so the clutch is dragging.
next, run it down a hill in gear and then pull the clutch lever and see if it holds the revs up, rolling, if so, the clutch is dragging.
clutch was dragging on mine, carefully and correctly correcting all of the adjustments helped a lot but not completely, I still have to get it into neutral just before stopping. I think that there are a lot of very worn parts in the whole clutch mechanism over the years that are not entirely accounted for by adjustment alone.
hope this helps
cheers
les
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antos
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 298
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Post by antos on May 24, 2017 8:52:24 GMT 1
The hunting you described is just the nature of these bikes I'm afraid don't worry mines the same ,change up or down👍
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Post by essexblue on May 24, 2017 19:05:37 GMT 1
Mine was like it from new sometimes up to second and then down again for neutral
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Post by chrisk01 on May 26, 2017 9:44:21 GMT 1
So I put the silkolene light oil in mine and it's now a lot better, sometimes I can even get it into neutral from first when it stops without going into second first, amazing... but it's ok really, just a bit sticky when at rest, and a false neutral between 5 and sixth sometimes, not great when running it in...
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