antos
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Post by antos on Feb 1, 2017 22:28:38 GMT 1
hi guys just bought an 87 reg f2 22k miles, it was running on both cylinders but it's gone to one now, so I've swapped the plugs over thinking that'll tell me if the plugs bad, but no it's still only firing on the right pot? Any ideas please?
There's also a sticking juddering noise from the servo pulley under the tank where the cables go down to the powervlave, I'm guessing something is wrong here to? Any help greatly appreciated
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Post by JonW on Feb 1, 2017 23:55:01 GMT 1
swap the plug wires... if it moved to the other cycl then Id check the HT lead connection at the coil and the plug.
Servos do go bad, if its chattering its not happy. whip it apart and clean it and the cables and set it up again, if it still does it then its a limit switch and you need a new one.
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Post by scootjockey on Feb 2, 2017 0:34:39 GMT 1
Antos is the Servo juddering when you 1st turn the ignition on ? If so is the battery fully charged as this may be a different issue to the HT/coil and plugs but I have known a faulty battery drag equipment down.
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Post by bare on Feb 2, 2017 1:13:06 GMT 1
Pore Bike is in desperate need of some Maintenance.
Missing on one cyl means that carb (at least) is knackered .
Again; it's a Wasted spark setup BOTH plugs fire simultaneously or Neither does.
PV servo motors are V durable. There are No limit switches only a feedback pot. Controllers typically die long before servos do.
That said the PV valves could be a solid carbon / oil lump.. restricting rotation. Clean them out as a First step
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reggit
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Post by reggit on Feb 2, 2017 8:23:54 GMT 1
Blow a little easystart stuff up the intake with it running, if it picks up briefly on the 2nd cylinder, you've got a fuelling issue. If it doesn't, it's electrical or compression.
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Post by kostas on Feb 2, 2017 8:52:15 GMT 1
Remove the cables from the PV servo and power it up, observe the servo movement and report back.
Gears in the servo are plastic so I would not run it again unless I was sure the controller is not shot.
Strip the carbs and give the an ultrasonic bath.. Even if it is not what's wrong it will only help your engine..
Kostas
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 10:04:53 GMT 1
what a forum and cracking set of lads 👍 Thank you so much I'll try all of these over the weekend and let you know how I get on😊
The servo is juddering back and forth yes👍 And I'm forgetting all the old tricks like swapping plug leads over, what a numpty lol many thanks lads
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 10:08:44 GMT 1
Compression is good so that's ok, put finger over plug hole blew my finger off😉
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Post by rich on Feb 2, 2017 20:06:10 GMT 1
Compression is good so that's ok, put finger over plug hole blew my finger off😉 Not always a conclusive test though, you really need to use a proper compression tester. Anything above 100 psi is ok. |
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Post by holty on Feb 2, 2017 21:53:32 GMT 1
i had the same issue on my 4lo and it turned out to be the low speed winding on the stator that was faulty, it was a miss-fire on the left cylinder, rh ran fine, i sent it to rexs speed shop he tested it and confirmed it was at fault, and also repaired it for me, got it back within the week, a good service, he also tested the cdi, i knew the coil was good as it was a new one.
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 22:56:07 GMT 1
Right I've swapped over the ht leads and still only fires on the right pot, nothing on left so must be fuel👍 As for the power valve servo that was chattering, I've disconnected the cables as mentioned (at the barrel end )then turned ignition on the servo made a noise then nothing!? Now when I turn ignition on and off I'm getting not a squeak from it? Someone earlier mentioned limits has it gone past them and now buggered it? The cables were a bit rusty so I'll need to buy some .Help
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Post by JonW on Feb 2, 2017 23:57:11 GMT 1
Defo a fuel issue then, get that carb apart.
With the servo, its strong enough to break cables but if its been pulling on rusted seized cables then its probably had it and could be the gears are toast. Just find another one, they arent expensive and you'd be starting with one that at least should work. FYI one from an EXUP is the same, some models differ but just look at them and see whats what, ive not used them but people like them as theyre newer and its said you just change the connector, search for more info on here and google and you should find what you need. BUT.... Get new cables too! old shite cables are not any good here. The OEMs are best, Ive had failures of the aftermarket ones where the nipples just pull of in use, but maybe i just had some crappy ones.
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Post by kostas on Feb 3, 2017 13:53:16 GMT 1
Take the cables out completely and try again.
Check that the fuses in the fusebox are all ok.
Don't buy a servo unless you have ruled out the controller.
There are no physical limits on the servo, only a feedback pot.
Kostas
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 3, 2017 13:58:33 GMT 1
Take the cables out completely and try again. Check that the fuses in the fusebox are all ok. Don't buy a servo unless you have ruled out the controller. There are no physical limits on the servo, only a feedback pot. Kostas Thank you kostas I will try that tonight, it does seem strange as it was turning then when I unhooked cables at valve end it moved then nothing, as though it's died? By controller do you mean the black box in middle of frame rails about 4inches square? Thanks for the help mate😊 |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2017 16:29:32 GMT 1
You can power up the Pv servo by connecting it directly to a 12v supply, remove the cables from it and remove from the bike
If it is working it will turn in one direction only, if you reverse the polarity it will then turn back the other way, it's a sure test that it is working or not
As Kostas says you need to eliminate one piece at a time, it could be the controller not the servo that's the issue, not an uncommon fault
The pv controller is at the back of the bike beside the fuse box
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 3, 2017 19:52:38 GMT 1
Kostas you sir are a star👍
it stopped working as it wasn't getting any power , the fuse had blown and like you said once I'd taken the cables out of the pulley it works perfectly. No chattering👍 One of the cables going to the powervalve had seized inside its outer sheath and that's what was causing the problem. So i need some cables and it should be ok, I'm going to take the carbs off tomorrow and strip and clean them paying particular attention to the left carb and hopefully get it running on both pots. I'll report back later😊
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Post by kostas on Feb 3, 2017 20:37:56 GMT 1
Easy fix...
Lots of info on here on carbs cleaning.. you will get it fixed..
Kostas
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 0:16:38 GMT 1
I've cleaned the affected cylinder carb out , there was a bit crap in there checked float height , unscrewed jet ,needle valve, blew everything out with compressed air and put it all back together, and the bugger still isn't firing on left pot, both plugs out again to check spark and spark is good. New plugs too, br9 es . would the reed valves cause this? Right cylinder runs and gets hot left isn't ?
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Post by scootjockey on Feb 4, 2017 0:36:29 GMT 1
I've cleaned the affected cylinder carb out , there was a bit crap in there checked float height , unscrewed jet ,needle valve, blew everything out with compressed air and put it all back together, and the bugger still isn't firing on left pot, both plugs out again to check spark and spark is good. New plugs too, br9 es . would the reed valves cause this? Right cylinder runs and gets hot left isn't ? I take it the offending plug/barrel is wet and fuel is getting into the bore ? |
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Post by Gitram on Feb 4, 2017 0:54:26 GMT 1
have you had the emulsion tube out? these can get a lot of crud around them..
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Post by kostas on Feb 4, 2017 9:12:34 GMT 1
+1 on the emulsion tube.
My RGV was not firing as the float (needle) valve o-ring had gone hard and it allowed fuel to pass making the mixture too rich.
Fit a tube at the fuel inlet and try to suck air thru the card while holding it upside down..
Or swap the carbs and check again.. Remember to block the choke cirquit.
Kostas
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 13:40:22 GMT 1
Hi lads, no I never took emulsion tube out. it's running but won't rev when I disconnect the right plug lead, Feels like its flat as a fart slow to rev if you know what I mean. if I take off the left plug lead bike starts up and revs ok on right cylinder. reed valves maybe?
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Post by 0h5h1t on Feb 4, 2017 18:18:09 GMT 1
may seem a funny question, but have you removed the exhaust. I ask because if the laft hand exahaust has filled with fuel it effectively stops that cylindar firing. My LC did this and I know of others too. it was caused by a leaky fuel valve in the carb, the effect was just what you are experiencing.
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 18:54:23 GMT 1
Hi mate and thanks for the reply no I havnt, I'll pull it tomorrow and see👍 Thank you
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Post by davey on Feb 4, 2017 20:05:24 GMT 1
Compression test it , i had a similar issue with my 4l1 checked everthing .
Did a comp check and discovered a cracked piston , i was amazed it ran in that state and i guess lucky as it could of self destructed at any point .
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Post by Gitram on Feb 4, 2017 20:31:41 GMT 1
The reed valve is only to prevent the mixture being blown back out of the crankcases and into the carbs..
remove the slide, separate the carb and floatbowl, unscrew the main jet and remove the small brass washer, have a peek through the jet when you are at it to see if there is any obstruction then when satisfied turn carb upside down and gently tap out the emulsion tube. When this is out take a look at the pile of dust which has fallen out and then check the five pairs of holes in the tube, these can be poked through with a strand of copper wire. give a skoosh through the holes in the carb body with some carb cleaner and reassemble noting that there is a small locating slot for the emulsion tube, if the carb is the problem then at least it should stand a chance of getting fuel after that..
I'm no trying to teach anyone how to suck eggs but i had to clean out four pairs of carbs last week...
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:17:48 GMT 1
may seem a funny question, but have you removed the exhaust. I ask because if the laft hand exahaust has filled with fuel it effectively stops that cylindar firing. My LC did this and I know of others too. it was caused by a leaky fuel valve in the carb, the effect was just what you are experiencing. Hi , Well I'll be blowed !! I've taken the exhaust off and blew through it and you can hardly blow through it!!! Might just of solved my problem thanks to you👍 A little bit fuel came outwhen I tipped it up but it must be carbon or baffles collapsed ? So just to confirm I took the right pipe off and you can blow straight through it no problem😊 Do the baffles come out on the f2 cans? Thanks Tony |
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Post by stusco on Feb 4, 2017 22:23:49 GMT 1
Sometimes the emulsion tube is tight after removing the washer screw the jet back in and use it to push the tube out using a vice/g clamp
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:32:02 GMT 1
Compression test it , i had a similar issue with my 4l1 checked everthing . Did a comp check and discovered a cracked piston , i was amazed it ran in that state and i guess lucky as it could of self destructed at any point . hi Dave mr amazon prime is bringing said tester tomorrow lol so I'll know soon enough👍 |
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:34:57 GMT 1
Hi , Well I'll be blowed !! I've taken the exhaust off and blew through it and you can hardly blow through it!!! Might just of solved my problem thanks to you👍 A little bit fuel came outwhen I tipped it up but it must be carbon or baffles collapsed ? So just to confirm I took the right pipe off and you can blow straight through it no problem😊 Do the baffles come out on the f2 cans? Thanks Tony
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