Blowing signal fuse

[russpuss]

Done 20 miles tonight, blew 2 fuses. Bike ran ok except having no use of some electrics, where do I start, I've changed to dyna coils and have a moto batt, I've still not tried a certified working stator although I have 1 to try courtesy of Norbo, bike has flown since I put the coils on so not had to try it, do I start there to close that off or go straight to a rectifier? LC 350 BTW.

[4l04ever]

Measure the battery voltage with the engine running. Rev the engine and see what voltage you get. These are DC measurements.

If the voltage is going way above 14.5V, then the rectifier/regulator may be shot or have a poor connection. If it never goes above 13V, then it is not charging, so again this could be rectifier/regulator, or stator/stator wiring.

You can check the stator by measuring the AC voltage with the engine running between each pair of two of the three white stator wires. I think it should be about 60V AC across each pair of wires.

[reggit]

Spot on above - are your fuses blowing, or mechanically failing (doesn't look blown, but is open circuit)

[russpuss]

12.6v engine off, 14.2 running at any revs, fuses are blowing.

[reggit]

Charging circuit sounds good - which fuses are blowing? You likely have an intermittent short circuit that's popping them.

[steeley]

Hi I would say you have a short some where. check the indicator wiring circuit for any damage . no expert I hate electrikery.

[reggit]

Oh, it's in the title indicators - Doh!

Do they work properly for a while before the fuse pops? Have you swapped out the flasher relay to rule it out?

[russpuss]

Everything works fine on the stand running, just blew the fuse twice last night when on a run, it then has no brake light, horn, indicators, idiot lights or temp gauge.

[jon]

If the fuse protects several circuits (as you mention brake light and horn too) why are you sure it's the indicators?

Have you tried the horn and brake light on the stand.

Maybe one of these has a short.

Favourite would be the brake in the circumstances you describe.

Strange question, but have you got a cutdown rear mudguard?

Jon

[yamark]

I think I'm correct that it's your signal fuse only, that is blowing.

Everything that you list that doesn't work, is on that circuit.

Does the fuse blow intermittently or when you switch on the indicators, or horn, or brake light or lights (as the clock lights are on the same fuse)?

If you can't get the fuse to blow when the bike is on the stand, the likely reason is a wire is shorting when vibrating to a new position, or more often trapped by the steering, or broken wire in the loom near the steering when ridden. 

Then try switching the above circuits on when riding the bike and see when the fuse blows. If the fuse blows when that circuit is switched on- that's the circuit at fault.

Also clean all your earths, as a poor contact can blow a fuse and will have you chasing you tail!

Let me know the results

HTH  Mark

  

[russpuss]

Mark, yes you are right it's that signal fuse in the fuse box, strange thing is it blew twice whilst going in a straight line at speed with nothing else added to the load. On the stand it's perfect with me revving the bike and shaking the steering whilst putting all the electrics on? It seems to have started after I've added the new coils so I'll whip the tank off and check those earths.

[russpuss]

Jon, I don't think it's the signals was just stating that in the fuse box it's marked signal. All good on stand as mentioned and not got uncut mudguard.

[4l04ever]

The main earth for the loom is connected under the coil(s). Make sure it has a good contact with clean metal, not powder coat!

[jon]

I've got a cutdown rear mudguard on my LC, and was amazed at the amount of water chucked up at the rear light, that's why I asked.

Jon