Paul H
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 244
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Post by Paul H on Jul 26, 2016 20:56:34 GMT 1
Hi guys my Elsie 4LO is driving me mad. It's being almost impossible to start. I have a spark and fuel but just refuses to kick. If I get son to push me up and down the road for 15 minutes I can eventually bump it into life, then it runs rough foe 10 miles but clears and is sweet as a nut. If I stop for a cupcake or visit a meet she will kick first time. However I put her back in the garage and two days later I am back to square one. Things I have tried so far
different coils, 2x RD 1x Banshee new plugs new leads hi and low coils checked and in spec carbs removed cleaned in ultrasonic bath and back together.
I considered the CDI but it run sweet when it gets going. Any advice would be great as summer is slipping away.
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Post by wallcraft on Jul 26, 2016 21:06:28 GMT 1
Air leak around the crank seals or else were can cause this, not had your problem on an LC but did on a CR 250, changed the seals and it was fine.
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Post by rigga on Jul 26, 2016 21:13:55 GMT 1
Sounds like its flooding maybe, float valves not sealing and tap passing fuel?
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Post by oldelsieboy on Jul 26, 2016 21:32:16 GMT 1
Carb float bowls fitted to wrong bodies.
OEB
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 26, 2016 21:35:58 GMT 1
Start with the obvious, you haven't got the float bowls on the wrong carbs causing the choke not to work hence the poor starting and running till warm
Check the low speed windings reading with a multimeter in case they are out of spec cold but better warm. Check the pick up too.
Check the float heights next and whether the needles are passing. Test this by after you've had it running good turn off the fuel and remove and block the fuel pipes to stop all flow. Reconnect them after a few days and see if it starts
Steve
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Post by billbott on Jul 26, 2016 22:30:37 GMT 1
Mine was the same when the float valves were passing.
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Post by arrow on Jul 28, 2016 1:34:06 GMT 1
Mine was the same when the float valves were passing. Totally agree. Dodgy float valves. Had the very same issue with my 250E.
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Paul H
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 244
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Post by Paul H on Jul 28, 2016 10:25:32 GMT 1
Thanks guys, i will get the carbs stripped over the weekend and see what happens
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Post by muddyfox on Jul 28, 2016 13:38:41 GMT 1
i always run my bikes dry for this reason
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Post by JonW on Jul 30, 2016 7:53:20 GMT 1
how long since you checked the bore? traditionally 2 strokes are very hard to start if the rings arent sealing too wel. if it kicks over easily but wont start, then maybe it needs a hone/rings or a rebore?
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Post by ngordoncrosby on Jul 31, 2016 10:07:50 GMT 1
My 250 won't start if I leave it on side stand. For longer than two days has to be on the main stand
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Post by Ozhammer on Aug 1, 2016 5:38:35 GMT 1
As has already been mentioned, definitely worth checking that the float bowls are fitted to the correct carb, as that will definitely cause cold starting issues, as it did on my RD400G after they were 'professionally' cleaned and refurbished
Rgds Ozhammer
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Post by paulperth on Aug 1, 2016 13:55:07 GMT 1
Mine was a nightmare to start after standing for a while eventually narrowed it down to the float bowl on the choke carb not having the little hole on it changed to correct float bowl and now fires first or second kick
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Post by neo on Aug 2, 2016 19:54:20 GMT 1
Fuel tap not shutting off properly? Does garage smell of petrol?
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Post by neo on Aug 18, 2016 7:10:39 GMT 1
Did you get this sorted
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murp
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 239
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Post by murp on Jan 31, 2018 21:52:03 GMT 1
old thread resurrection alert
i'm having similar problems...... did you sort this
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Paul H
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 244
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Post by Paul H on Feb 1, 2018 9:55:20 GMT 1
Yes the carbs were not shutting off properly and flooding. I adjusted the float height and now always turn the tap off when i have finished riding as a just in case.
Paul
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Post by earthman on Feb 1, 2018 14:54:59 GMT 1
Was the vacuum type of tap invented due to this sort of thing happening basically??
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Post by rigga on Feb 2, 2018 11:19:00 GMT 1
Interesting thing I found when i had clear float bowls fitted, was that turning the fuel tap off and running the engine till it stopped didn't actully empty the carbs, well the right hand one had a decent amount of fuel still in there, whilst the left hand one had run dry and stopped the engine. Reason being, unless you have the exact same length fuel hose from the tap to both carbs, you are not accounting for that extra fuel when the tap is closed. On a two outlet tap both carbs will not be completely empty due to relative proximity to the tap.
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Post by copper99 on Feb 2, 2018 17:17:29 GMT 1
Was the vacuum type of tap invented due to this sort of thing happening basically?? Thats the main advantage mate...they can still leak and of course & the tap(or repair kit) is always more expensive ..(unless the gravity fed item is/ or becomes NOS!)
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