drogs
L plate rider.
Posts: 27 
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Post by drogs on May 20, 2016 12:11:47 GMT 1
Anyone got some pictures of a fan fitted to the RD350LC 1982? have some problems with overheating on warm days at low speeds.
Thanks
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Post by 4l04ever on May 20, 2016 12:16:17 GMT 1
Get a lot bigger radiator! It is a design fault.
They were designed at a time when they thought the optimum running temperature was 80 degrees C, but it has come to light that 55 is a lot better. I have a thundercat radiator modified to fit my LC, but still gets upto 65 when running and 75 in traffic, so will be going a bit bigger still.
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Post by muddyfox on May 20, 2016 15:22:59 GMT 1
evans waterless here, never gets over half way!
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Post by 1260dave on May 20, 2016 15:24:42 GMT 1
i think you would be better off with a better impeller in traffic
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Post by 4l04ever on May 20, 2016 15:55:29 GMT 1
evans waterless here, never gets over half way! Halfway on the standard temperature display is 80 degrees C, so still too hot really..... Get a digital temperature display so you know for sure what tmeperature you are running. |
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Post by muddyfox on May 20, 2016 17:39:19 GMT 1
maybe a tad under half way, but thats stood in traffic on a hot day, never had over heating, best part about the waterless stuff it doesnt get hot spots either, thats what destroys engines, its called Nucleate Boiling (water turns to steam)
and no over boil, you can undo the rad cap after riding and you dont get a big spray of water as there isnt any steam build up
amazing stuff!
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Mad Biker
Drag-strip hero
We lead others try and follow.
Posts: 243
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Post by Mad Biker on May 20, 2016 17:57:10 GMT 1
A digital temp gauge is good idea, it takes out any guess work.
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Post by stusco on May 20, 2016 20:28:17 GMT 1
A digital temp gauge is good idea, it takes out any guess work. Anyone got a link to one |
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Post by looey on May 20, 2016 20:31:36 GMT 1
Anyone got some pictures of a fan fitted to the RD350LC 1982? have some problems with overheating on warm days at low speeds. Thanks Well something's not right, cos they do get warm but shouldn't overheat. The other Sunday we rode to the Ace Cafe for Yamaha Day. It was 27 degrees that day and it took an hour stuck in traffic to get out of London. Our 350LC was registering half on the temp gauge some of the time but no more than that and it ran perfectly the whole time. You must have poor coolant flow in there for some reason. |
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Post by copper99 on May 20, 2016 20:47:40 GMT 1
Anyone got some pictures of a fan fitted to the RD350LC 1982? have some problems with overheating on warm days at low speeds. Thanks Well something's not right, cos they do get warm but shouldn't overheat. The other Sunday we rode to the Ace Cafe for Yamaha Day. It was 27 degrees that day and it took an hour stuck in traffic to get out of London. Our 350LC was registering half on the temp gauge some of the time but no more than that and it ran perfectly the whole time. You must have poor coolant flow in there for some reason. Agreed, the system in decent working order wont allow cause the bike to overheat, mine never got more than half way stuck in the traffic in the South of France last year , 32+ day after day and mid 20s at night, she also ran perfectly at all times. |
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Post by 4l04ever on May 20, 2016 22:07:16 GMT 1
There can be issues with the sender, the temp gauge or the wiring, so a digital temp gauge would confirm if it is actually overheating or just reading high.
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Post by bare on May 21, 2016 0:35:20 GMT 1
Anyone got some pictures of a fan fitted to the RD350LC 1982? have some problems with overheating on warm days at low speeds. Thanks Overheat? In the UK? Somethings' clearly amiss. Lotsa Rad capacity in an oem LC350. Much More so than in a YVPS, which had a single row rad. Either your gauge is knackered ( Gee who woulda thought ?) or there is an air leak/lean condition , if not a waterway obstruction 80 C is Fine.. Yes ~55 is better... if Racing. But 80 was Yamas' design temp. |
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Post by steeley on May 21, 2016 5:50:12 GMT 1
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Post by 1260dave on May 22, 2016 13:58:13 GMT 1
i had an overheating problem coming back from newquay, turned out the plastic impeller had come loose on the shaft
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Post by 4l04ever on May 22, 2016 21:31:27 GMT 1
Start the bike from cold with the radiator cap off. Check that you can see water moving in the radiator when you rev the bike.
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Post by foxyjohn on May 23, 2016 11:58:32 GMT 1
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Post by looey on May 23, 2016 13:30:37 GMT 1
That looks a good opition, does it wire into the bike's loom for power ?.
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Post by foxyjohn on May 24, 2016 11:56:23 GMT 1
That looks a good opition, does it wire into the bike's loom for power ?. No Looey it as its own battery mine as been fitted 4 years and still working and you can change the battery you just have to plum it into the outlet hose from the head into the radiator or you can get them that fit under the spark plug but they are not as accurate |
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Post by paulperth on May 25, 2016 1:57:57 GMT 1
I use a water less coolant here in Perth we regularly get temperatures of 40 degrees averaging out to about 35 degrees for 6 months of the year and I have never had any over heating problems - try using the water less alternative first before trying anything else it might be a cheap fix and surprise you
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drogs
L plate rider.
Posts: 27
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Post by drogs on May 25, 2016 15:55:24 GMT 1
Ok Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes when I have made some changes.
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Post by ukcalling on May 27, 2016 16:08:07 GMT 1
Looey was it the 25mm version for the top hose as just wanted to check get the right one for my 1981 350
Thanks Nick
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Post by speedkills on Oct 27, 2017 12:19:41 GMT 1
Hi my rd350lc ran hot yesterday in heavy traffic, it did not go into the red on the temp gauge, i took the water cap off this morning to test to see if the water was circulating
Did not see much movement at all.
What parts are necessay to fix this and us it an easy job
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Post by earthman on Oct 27, 2017 12:32:13 GMT 1
Well something's not right, cos they do get warm but shouldn't overheat. The other Sunday we rode to the Ace Cafe for Yamaha Day. It was 27 degrees that day and it took an hour stuck in traffic to get out of London. Our 350LC was registering half on the temp gauge some of the time but no more than that and it ran perfectly the whole time. You must have poor coolant flow in there for some reason. Agreed, the system in decent working order wont allow cause the bike to overheat, mine never got more than half way stuck in the traffic in the South of France last year , 32+ day after day and mid 20s at night, she also ran perfectly at all times. If you live in the UK and rode an LC to the South of France? I'm very impressed.  |
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Post by speedkills on Oct 27, 2017 13:09:02 GMT 1
Hi my rd350lc ran hot yesterday in heavy traffic, it did not go into the red on the temp gauge, i took the water cap off this morning to test to see if the water was circulating
Did not see much movement at all.
What parts are necessay to fix this and us it an easy job
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p4ddy
L plate rider.
Posts: 41
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Post by p4ddy on Oct 29, 2017 11:21:20 GMT 1
Mine blew the cap once, I had no idea till my mate caught up with it in his hand saying it hit him in the head lol
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Post by dangerousal on Sept 23, 2018 22:45:45 GMT 1
I actually have 2 temp sender's...a Koso one just above the head between the rad...and one in the head that goes to acewell clocks....the Koso reads higher than the acewell....
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 24, 2018 8:49:06 GMT 1
My advice would be to fit a digital temperature gauge so you can see what is happening. The meter can be tie wrapped next to the clocks and the sender can be fitted into the original sender hole (i have used Koso) most of these sensor's have a choice of battery operation or hard wired. With the battery type it can be fitted and removed very easy so can be used as a tool for checking running temperatures.
Once fitted ride around and note the temperatures you have seen. Do not be alarmed if you see the temperature increase very quickly when you have stopped and your bike is idling.
As mentioned above there could be problems with system but you have to remember this is a system from the 80's.
I have been measuring before and after temperatures from a tuned 4LO engine this year and with standard radiator, Norbo's extra wide radiator, standard impeller and high flow impeller. The best combination i found for road riding is a large radiator and standard impeller.
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Post by JonW on Sept 24, 2018 14:18:21 GMT 1
I also had a Koso, it was cheap and worked well. I now have Koso EGTs and they have digital water temp as one of the functions. The single unit was cheap as chips, id buy one again if i needed one.
Toby, Ive long suspected that the large rad and and the fast impeller wasnt a good combination as the water moves too fast, so its interesting you mention this.
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Post by 4l04ever on Sept 24, 2018 14:33:20 GMT 1
I run standard impeller and Thundercat Rad on my tuned LC. Usually around 60 with this setup, but gets up to around 75 on a track day when the weather is warmer.
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