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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 7:07:17 GMT 1
Well I'm about to start the long slow process of the restoration of a RZ350R that I have in bits, this is what I have so far
The bits
The Clocks
The Donk
The donk again
Although I do have a tank, rear plastics, numerous tail lights that aren't shown plus a few other that I've scavenged over the past two or three years
Most of you guys have started with this sort of caper before, so I'm about to find out the ins and outs of a box of bits
Its far different to the last one I did where the bike was already together and all I had to do was take it to bits and put it back together again, this time I have to find all the bits and where they fit (or if they fit as the case maybe)
Give me a couple of years whilst I start squirrelling, begging, pestering, hunting, fettling, tunkering and generally asking dumb questions and the like so wish me luck
JonW has already warned me that bits for this particular model are like rocking horse poo or rarer
Do I really want to do this after that comment, HMMM let me think about that for a second, yes of course I do
I'm a glutton for punishment with a weak bank balance, the two don't necessarily mix, however there is no harm in trying
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Post by unrealedd on Mar 24, 2016 7:12:55 GMT 1
Well good luck to you sir!! Going back to standard of you going for something else?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 7:24:25 GMT 1
Hi Unrealedd
I'm going to try standard, it is essentially an F1 but they called them RZ350R down here, presuming you are in the UK, although looking at your moniker I'm doubting that
I have the front fairings on order just awaiting confirmation on what I'm getting
The gearbox oil is milky, a mouse made its home on the engine block, what you see here is after I've degreased and pressure cleaned everything (except for the donk I only air cleaned it, mouse poo went everywhere, note to self wear glasses next time)
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 24, 2016 8:32:03 GMT 1
Hi I, like many here, know how you feel Looks like you have all the big bits - hopefully you'll have all the small bits too !! I always start by getting the frame sorted and then you can start cleaning/painting/coating/polishing parts and start bolting them on. I find it gives you a boost each time something gets bolted on - even minor parts. I'm sure you'll enjoy the process - I enjoy building them as much as riding them Good luck Dusty
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Post by yamark on Mar 24, 2016 9:31:02 GMT 1
Looks like a giant jigsaw puzzle, but someone's lost the lid of the box! I'm sure the restoration will go well, you just have to wait for the missing parts to come up- patience is the key.
What percentage of the bike do you think you have?
Good luck with it , nice project
Regards Mark
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Post by KevtheRev on Mar 24, 2016 9:58:05 GMT 1
Looks like you've all the important bits mate . Bet it wont take as long as you think . Best of luck !
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 11:00:14 GMT 1
Probably about 80% I'd say Yamark, all the big bits are there except of course the front fairing and its mounting hardware The loom is there with bits hanging off it, 3 CDI's 1 with plugs the other two without, I've got a couple of PV controllers a spare flywheel and stator along with the flywheel and stator that's on it and a couple of rectifiers I have barrels and pistons and a head ready to go I did have 5 oil pumps I've now got 3, two sent to Arrow this morning, the one on the bike looks new TBH Got the clip-ons and calipers, master cylinders are toast, if you look at the state of the outside of the barrels above, well that's what the master cylinders look like, I have spare calipers and a spare rear master cylinder Other bits I need are A seat A left hand mirror, indicators all round A horn or two Money and patience, both I've got in very small doses I seem to be doing it backwards Dusty, I've started cleaning everything up and started with the motor by removing the mouse droppings, draining the cream (you cant really call it oil) and removing the clutch cover Pistons on the exhaust side look OK, crank turns freely, gear box spins, though god knows how I've yet to look at the inlet side although reeds appear intact Some more Unhappy snaps Unhappy snap 1 unhappy snap 2
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Post by yamark on Mar 24, 2016 12:10:35 GMT 1
Has the previous owner painted the inside of the engine with Dulux magnolia
Keep the pictures coming
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 24, 2016 12:11:39 GMT 1
Good luck with it, keep us updated with pictures.
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Post by arrow on Mar 24, 2016 12:45:27 GMT 1
Good luck with that. Keep you busy for a while.
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Post by markhoopy on Mar 24, 2016 12:52:36 GMT 1
unhappy snap 2 A lovely mix of water and oil
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 13:14:14 GMT 1
yamark Dulux magnolia, I like that, more like double cream not whipped, its still dripping out 4 hours later Goodness knows how long its been like that, the guy I bought it off bought it off some one else and the thing had been out in the weather for 20 years Saw him again tonight and he said he'd pull parts away from the frame and they'd crumble in his hands, the frame is actually in good nick considering what it has been through I will sandblast the frame and repaint, that I can do myself with a bit of care, soda blast the barrels and head repaint them and same with the casings although I 'am thinking of leaving them unpainted as I've seen a few on here that aren't and they look real nice Decisions decisions Three clutch case screws had the heads stripped, so out with the LH drill bits and an easy out, 10 minutes later out they came arrow the oil pump looks brand new and has the yellow dot and a coarse worm, it looks like you have had a hand in this Oh and I have the original exhausts so don't need them I'll pull the flywheel off across the weekend and remove the head and barrels The crank and gearbox bits turn freely as do the PV's, pistons move up and down freely too and there is compression of some sort If I'm real lucky the crank will be OK as the only way water can get into the gearbox is through the water pump seal
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 15:24:09 GMT 1
Oh and I've got some good head bolts that aren't rusty either
Just spotted an exhaust stud is missing and the thread, well three threads actually, all take off in different directions when I tried to screw a bolt in there
So out with the thread restorers tomorrow to see if it is salvageable, if not a time sert should do the trick
M8x 1.25 if anyone can confirm?
Squirted some penetrant on all the bolts I could find, so I'll let that do its trick overnight and hopefully no broken studs or bolts
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Post by arrow on Mar 24, 2016 16:54:17 GMT 1
M8x1.25 that's correct.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 17:13:11 GMT 1
Cheers Arrow
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Post by Yogi on Mar 24, 2016 22:04:51 GMT 1
Wow and off you go There's not too many one off parts on them From memory the parts are mirrors,headstock wiring cover plastics,loom, and switchgear, The rest is a mixture off early and late ypvs parts Fairing and brackets are the same as F2 models as is the back swinger,brakes and clocks Tank,rear,side panels and wheels are all the same as 31k/29l/31l,lc2 models Forks and exhausts are the same as N1 models And probably some parts I forgot but take your time and enjoy the build Hope it helps a bit with parts search,Atb Matt
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2016 2:50:11 GMT 1
Hi Matt
Cheers for that, it will come in useful
Howard
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2016 4:22:45 GMT 1
Head is now off, both barrels are pretty good no major scoring, LH piston is 0.5mm oversize with standard inlet port on the barrel, RH piston is 0.25mm with a bit of work on the inlet of the barrel
Pics to follow
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2016 5:00:45 GMT 1
PV joint one screw buggered, LH drill bits to the rescues again, barrels now ready to come off in readiness to fight with the flywheel
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Post by KevtheRev on Mar 25, 2016 8:02:05 GMT 1
Looks like some Hippie was using hemp oil in there !
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2016 14:54:56 GMT 1
The Easter update
Ok barrels now off, slight scoring down the bottom and on pistons, there is about 10mm of sideways movement on the RH piston and con-rod, RHS of crank is buggered, LH is reasonable but I'll need a new one unless I can find a crank rebuilder here in Perth
Shift shaft is toast, multiple grooves, got a new one that's a bit too new somewhere, had it fitted to the other bike but I couldn't get it to release the shift star, I'll play with that and make it older, didn't realise when you remove it more oil (cream) came out, what a mess
The flywheel came off with little or no resistance, the removal tool and a 3/8 rattle gun did the trick. this was going to be my big worry as I had extreme difficulty with the last one, and having been told the bike was out in the weather for 20 years really made me worry
One quarter of the inner of the flywheel is rusty, I'll clean it up and hopefully it still works
Someone has been in this engine before I reckon, Phillips heads are rounded out and shiny, but stuck solid, they've given up trying, maybe the reason the flywheel came off so easy, and it was after the barrels were done
Multiple issues with seized screws and buggered heads due to the water being in the oil, managed to get them all out with the aid of an impact driver and LH drill bits and easy outs, holes re-tapped just in case I forget about them
Head is ok and straight, and no sign of any detonation, domes are good and nothing a bit of vinegar won't fix in the water galleries, same with the barrels.
PV seals totally stuffed and in pieces, didn't know there was a metal collar in behind the rubber, I do now, according to the clock the bike has done 53600kms and I reckon those seals have done every bit of that, PV's themselves have cleaned up ok, and they were caked, all the holders for them are still a reasonable fit with little play
Can't figure out for the life of me why the two barrels aren't the same bore, why one has had inlet port work done to it and the other is standard and why the PV seals weren't replaced who knows, I think it has had a failure and the cheapest thing possible was done and that was find any barrel they could
I don't have a full history of the bike so I don't know how many owners its had so that doesn't help, still it is what it is
Cases are split and look ok and the bearing surfaces are smooth , RH side a little brown bit looks Ok, now to work out how the blazes do I remove the shift drum, its a bit rusty and tight although I've got it moving up and down and rotating, just need it out to check over the surfaces it rotates on.
I'll post a pic of the barrels tomorrow, I need some adjudication on them, something doesn't look right as if one has been rebored 0.5mm off centre either that or its an optical illusion
Gearbox components are a bit rusty but seems like surface rust, the old vinegar trick again will give me more data
Still I have another refurbished one just in case
TBH I'm really surprised I've got this far with no major headaches, it has really helped watching the guy who took apart and then rebuilt my first engine and reading about everyone's exploits, tips do's and don'ts on here
It has certainly given me a lot of confidence to keep going
So many thanks to all so far
Now I have to write down the list of parts I need that I don't have and work from there
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Post by unrealedd on Mar 28, 2016 15:27:04 GMT 1
Sound like your making great inroads into it. Looking forward to reading you progression as it happens. Best of luck.
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Samz
L plate rider.
Needing a stroker again!
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Post by Samz on Mar 28, 2016 20:44:16 GMT 1
Good luck, keep posting the progress!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2016 7:10:54 GMT 1
as promised some pics RH 0.25 barrel and piston showing some port work on the bridge RH 0.25 LH barrel and piston 0.5 no port work on the bridge LH barrel 0.5, this is the interesting one, there appears to be a bit of welding at 3 & 9 o'clock and the liner seems thinner at 3 o'clock which led me to believe the barrel has been bored off centre, if you compare to the RH one at 0.25 you may see what I mean thickness of liner at 3 is 1.2mm and at 9 is 2.0mm although both look to have been chamfered which makes it difficult to determine compared to 3mm on other barrel Bottom case showing browning of the bearing recess top case head If the full blown mechanics/machinists could give me their opinion I would be grateful Now to do some fettling of the side panels, I've got the tear drop clips broken off on both good panels, so I'm going to take them off bad panels and glue in place with some liquid plastic onto the good panels I'm going to sandblast the frame with a hand held gravity feed sandblaster, there are a few on the bay at a good price of $40 or so dollars or do I spend $190 on a snap-off one, anyone any suggestions?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2016 8:51:44 GMT 1
A little bit of fettling to remove good tear drop clip from a crap panel and place on a good panel with no clip
good clip
glued in place
test fit on my bike, it fits so got to be happy with that
all panels will be repainted in the Yamaha Pearl White, that's a fair way in the future though. The RH corresponding panel is yellow
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Post by arrow on Mar 29, 2016 9:15:37 GMT 1
I wouldn't worry about the barrels beind bored off center. I've seen barrels on standard bore worse than that. Although it would give the barrels a longer life it appears to be a non critical dimension.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2016 9:26:18 GMT 1
Hi Gary
Cheers for that, didn't know, and good to know too I'll be taking them to an engine re-conditioner to see what he suggests to do next
At least I'll have a spare set for either bike in any case
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fieldy
L plate rider.
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Post by fieldy on Mar 29, 2016 10:15:44 GMT 1
Good luck,
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Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2016 14:53:37 GMT 1
Ok serious update here, no pics though as I'm away working
I've sandblasted the frame, a mate gave me a 40lb blaster for free, it took 50kg of media and 5 hours before I'd finished it, setting up a sand blaster is not easy but I've got it pretty spot on now (now that I've just about finished HMMM)
Frame has been zinc coated and powder coated Flame Red, its the closest match to the original colour I could find
Bird cage, side panels and 2 headlight fairings have arrived in various states of repair, and picked up two really good belly pans locally for $50 each
Soda blasted the cases and hubs and front master cylinder they are all now powder coated or painted, I'm going to do the top case again as I've had a small paint reaction which has left small bubbles over it
Triple tree, bird cage, rear calliper mount and rear light holder all powder coated, awaiting some clip ons (thanks Nick)
Swing arm has been blasted and powder coated silver with clear over the top, it looks real nice
Pulled apart, well actually set fire to the dog legs, H and shock bushes so I could pull them apart, pins were rusty as all buggery, then the light bulb moment, I bought a really good spare shock, complete with all dog leg and H seals and pins that are brand spankers
Forks have been soda blasted ready for new seals, oil and painting, not necessarily in that order, wheels I need to soda blast too then repaint and polish
I also have a set of the gold anodised ones from the US that I really liked, however someone took to them with a can of yellow spray paint in places, tried to remove said paint but the anodising came with it, they will paint up real good though
So I should all being well have a rolling chassis in a couple of months, mind you I'm off to Sepang for the GP s that will slow me down a bit
Pics will come trust me
Howard
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2017 12:26:28 GMT 1
Ok so another major update And yes with pics, I know how you love pics First is the frame in all its orangey red glory Next is the swing arm powder coated silver then gloss clear over the top Before and after of the wheels what I started with After glass bead blasting Polished edges and spokes Masked up ready for painting the finished product, well wheel any way Other bits and bobs painted and or powder coated after they have been either soda or bead blasted (or both) Clutch cover yoke hangers ready for clear powder coating Next to do are the exhausts, sand blast and paint them and repaint the top engine case I'm not happy with then I will make a start on the fairings Got to order some bits too, swing arm seals and dog leg bushes as well as bearings for wheels and yoke, think of going down the tapered ones for the yolk, anyone any suggestions, I've seen all balls advertise a few So that's it for now Hopefully the next update wont be so long, it will be about 2 weeks as I fly out again Sunday
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