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Post by lcyoungboy on Nov 20, 2015 17:06:54 GMT 1
Is there an alternative side stand for an lc..I have tarozzi rearsets fitted with tsa pipes and standard side stand modded with the spring on the outside. However it fouls the gear lever on the left and you can't change gear..see pic! Just wondering what I should do..is there a shorter side stand I could get or just cut out an inch or 2 on this 1. To be honest the rearsets have been a right pain from the beginning. [URL=http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/garlo1990/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151120_154050_zpsdnqfmmct.jpg.html  [/URL] The gear and brake levers are finally in a position were I'm not in bits on the bike so don't really want to move them up or down if ya get me. Thanks Dave |
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Post by arrow on Nov 20, 2015 17:14:53 GMT 1
I would cut a section out and weld it back up. Watch the length though as the bike will lean over too much. Does the gear lever clear the pipe when changing down? Looks close in the pic.
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Post by arrow on Nov 20, 2015 17:16:21 GMT 1
Also scribe a line on the back, makes it much easier to put back together, and don't shorten the section between the pivot and the spring hanger.
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Post by lcyoungboy on Nov 20, 2015 17:24:52 GMT 1
Thanks arrow..yeah it clears the pipes..just looks real close in the pics
Dave
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Post by arrow on Nov 20, 2015 17:28:21 GMT 1
Sure looks clean. Got any pics of the whole bike? Oh, and a small piece of wood kept in yer pocket will help with any length issues.
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Post by rigga on Nov 20, 2015 17:53:32 GMT 1
Oh, and a small piece of wood kept in yer pocket will help with any length issues. Thought I'd stumbled into the wrong forum then .... |
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Post by fatfastroger on Nov 20, 2015 18:12:52 GMT 1
I have tsa pipes and kept the spring on the inside, just cut the knob of the end (ooo errrr) shortened the part the spring fits on and blobbed the knob back on with a bit of weld. It now clears the pipes.
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 20, 2015 18:50:40 GMT 1
I have tsa pipes and kept the spring on the inside, just cut the knob of the end (ooo errrr) shortened the part the spring fits on and blobbed the knob back on with a bit of weld. It now clears the pipes. Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk Top Tits, sorry tips, got me going now. Mark. |
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Post by rich on Nov 20, 2015 19:25:40 GMT 1
I'd put a blob of weld where the fork meets the bracket to make the stand stop further down. Alternatively, build up the stop on the frame bracket.
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Post by jon on Nov 20, 2015 20:34:28 GMT 1
I'd do this ...  then this ...  then this ...  Tapping a thread into a solid bar is far stronger. As arrow says, I'd remove the minimum amount to clear as the bike will lean over too far. If you want this done (but not ASAP) PM me. Jon |
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Post by arrow on Nov 20, 2015 20:41:54 GMT 1
Excellent jon. If who ever thought of that could have been on the design team for the Titanic it would have smashed the iceberg up and kept on going! A true belt 'n' braces job.
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Post by jon on Nov 20, 2015 21:58:37 GMT 1
Arrow, I take on board that my side stand is possibly over engineered.
However I will not be trying to win a race where every last gram is important.
I'd far rather it last the lifetime of bike, than have to rework it after paint.
Jon
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Post by arrow on Nov 20, 2015 22:18:56 GMT 1
Not over engineered Jon, I think you read me wrong. I like the way it was done with virtually no possibility of failure.
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Post by rigga on Nov 20, 2015 22:24:36 GMT 1
I have a BMW s1000rr sidestand on mine, just what the previous owner had lying around like the rear shock and used, so alternatives are available, just trial and error to get the one that suits best.
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Post by stusco on Nov 20, 2015 22:28:24 GMT 1
I'd put a blob of weld where the fork meets the bracket to make the stand stop further down. Alternatively, build up the stop on the frame bracket. +1 |
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Post by jon on Nov 20, 2015 22:32:59 GMT 1
Arrow, That was the intention.  Jon |
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gsexr
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 352
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Post by gsexr on Nov 20, 2015 23:07:59 GMT 1
I'd do this ... then this ... then this ... Tapping a thread into a solid bar is far stronger. As arrow says, I'd remove the minimum amount to clear as the bike will lean over too far. If you want this done (but not ASAP) PM me. Jon Pukka job that matey |
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Post by JonW on Nov 20, 2015 23:23:43 GMT 1
I have a Triumph stand on my LC421 and they clear my Raasks which I expect are much the same as Tarozzis, same era design etc. pic half way down this page (including how I fitted it): 2smoked.com/Yamaha_RD350_LC_421cc_Athena_Frame.htmlI also love Jon's approach to his shortened unit. very well engineered, but as it should be, if the bike falls cos the stand fails, youve dented pipes, tank and rashed other bits n bobs... :/ |
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Post by lcyoungboy on Nov 21, 2015 15:25:11 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Nov 21, 2015 19:52:58 GMT 1
That's a nice tidy LC lcyoungboy. Some nice classic (and expensive) modifications.
I've got nothing against restorations, especially mars bar ones, but once you've seen one, you've seen them all.
I've never had a standard bike in my life, so perhaps I'm biased?
Jon
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Post by arrow on Nov 21, 2015 20:04:41 GMT 1
That's a great lookin' bike.
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Post by hudtm60 on Nov 21, 2015 20:57:18 GMT 1
that's an amazing looking bike.
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 21, 2015 21:05:38 GMT 1
Very very nice, dam them pipes look good!
Mark.
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Post by steeley on Nov 21, 2015 21:26:23 GMT 1
nice machine you have there. the billets look mean, as in fold those forks under the engine.
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Post by lcyoungboy on Nov 21, 2015 21:39:45 GMT 1
Very very nice, dam them pipes look good! Mark. You should hear them at full chat..unreal  thanks again. Dave |
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 21, 2015 21:47:26 GMT 1
Pleasure Dave, glad there on such handsome example.
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thanks again.