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Post by kostas on Sept 23, 2015 18:02:44 GMT 1
RD 350 YPVS F1. The low oil light comes on when I turn the ignition on but then fades off. Been told that it is normal but looking at the wiring diagram cannot figure out how this works?? Fuse box powers the light, ground comes they the sensor looks simple.. Where does the self test function comes from? I'm I missing something? Also neutral light does not always come on.. Sometimes only comes on when the engine is running, sometimes goes on as it should?? Bad earth? But what changes with the engine running?? And I had a high respect to my electrical troubleshooting skils  Kostas |
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Post by steeley on Sept 23, 2015 19:07:51 GMT 1
hi Kostas there is a float in the oil tank if bike is on the side stand guess the float ends up at the contact end at the bottom of the tube.the neutral wire on the engine could have a break in it, I had this problem on my lc once .
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Post by russie on Sept 23, 2015 22:23:21 GMT 1
There is something built into the oil level sensor which performs the test function when powered up. The neutral light fault could be loose wire at the contact or spring which pushes the pin in the end of the selector drum against the contact could be weak / broken. Vibration once started could be changing something?
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Post by fatfastroger on Sept 24, 2015 22:30:57 GMT 1
Looking at the wiring diagram and if yours has a 3 wire oil level sensor. The neutral switch will provide an earth for the oil level when in neutral so both lamps light up. When not in neutral the oil light can only be on when "low oil". The glowing then fading may mean the oil level is a capacitance switch type and not a simple float switch.
There are only 2 electrical faults, one is current not getting somewhere it should and current is getting somewhere it should not !
I think you have a bad neutral wire. Do you have a good engine earth to the battery ?
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Post by kostas on Sept 25, 2015 18:43:58 GMT 1
This a 2 wire oil level switch so that may be a capacitance sensor in there.
What I have noticed is that if I flick the main switch two or three times the light will not light up any more. If I let it sit for a few minutes it goes on and fades out again.
Also just noticed that I'm kind of low on oil so I will give it a top up and try again.
Cannot see how this is neutral switch related... At least from the wiring diagram.
Will test and reply back.
Thanks for the answers..
Kostas
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Post by fatfastroger on Sept 25, 2015 23:51:51 GMT 1
Not looked at the 2 wire circuit oil switch as mine is 3 wire. Do you have a good voltage at your battery
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 26, 2015 9:50:33 GMT 1
Your oil sensor is working correctly. As you say there is only a feed, a bulb and the sensor so test function built in to it.
You say you can flick the switch a few times and it stays off but leave a few minutes and comes on again. This points to being capacitive as takes a few minutes before it discharges and works again. Nothing to do with the neutral light fault
Neutral light is simply power through the bulb then earthed through the switch. The wire tends to break so check that.
Also at a point when the light is not working remove the lh case and take a piece of wire and link from the switch to earth and then from the engine to earth to check the switch operation and that the engine is earthed.
Engine is only earthed via the black wire from the stator
If it still doesn't come on then there is a break in the wire somewhere. Check there is a positive feed to the bulb and you have continuity from bulb to switch
Steve
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Post by kostas on Sept 26, 2015 11:45:49 GMT 1
Thanks Steve,
Will check the black stator wire for proper earth.
Checking the blue wire that goes at the shift drum earth will have to wait as I'm not dropping the belly pan for that!
Kostas
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