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Post by 4ce on Apr 20, 2015 19:35:17 GMT 1
put a liner kit in the 400F tank last year,put away for the winter, dug it out to get ready for mayday and
the liner has bubbled and is flaking at the top of the hump just below the cap.
How can I remove this liner without damaging my new paint job?
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Post by steeley on Apr 20, 2015 20:22:02 GMT 1
what sort of liner was it.petseal and similar types can be removed with acetone. pour it in the empty tank ,protect the paint on the tank even from the fumes this is what will break the stuff up. oh this is how I have removed a different type of liner from a couple of tanks ,the paint and filler repairs did suffer lol.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 20, 2015 20:42:39 GMT 1
Acetone is your friend
What type liner was it
Steve
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Post by 4ce on Apr 20, 2015 20:54:35 GMT 1
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Post by ianr4863 on Apr 20, 2015 21:13:23 GMT 1
+1 for Acetone but be careful with it . Always wear gloves as I think its absorbed through your skin .
Ian
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 20, 2015 21:45:16 GMT 1
+1 for Acetone but be careful with it . Always wear gloves as I think its absorbed through your skin . Ian some gloves will melt when in contact with acetone..... :-) |
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Post by steven on Apr 20, 2015 22:36:38 GMT 1
...i removed an unknown liner using acetone and it worked, but took approx 3 weeks or more to melt it all out, shaking and rotating the tank more or less daily, but it worked just fine.
I also fitted a couple of por-15 tank liners.
once i had finished the por 15 treatment, i kept the two tins that the por-15 came in and let them dry out and cure.
I filled one of the por-15 cans with petrol and the other one with acetone and left them for a week or more, and nothing melted or even got soggy, so acetone does not work on por-15 liners, but i belevie there is a product available that will remove por-15, i think it is made by the folk that make por-15?
steven.
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Post by steeley on Apr 21, 2015 7:38:43 GMT 1
A friend of mine dropped a cured section of por=15 tank liner into a small jar of mek and that didn't affect it.i wonder what cellulose thinners would do to it.
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Post by 4ce on Apr 21, 2015 21:13:21 GMT 1
Now turning into a nightmare, checked the powervalve tank. Been off the bike and dry for a year, Tank rattling and lumps of liner falling out. Tank lined 5 years ago por 15. Won`t be riding anywhere soon by the looks of it.
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Post by pistanbroke on Apr 25, 2015 15:33:06 GMT 1
Ive never used a tank liner and never intend too, i fill the tank with vinegar at end of winter and leave for a week, give the tank a good swill out and then fill with super unleaded, works for me  |
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Post by anyoldiron on Apr 25, 2015 16:14:09 GMT 1
No doubt this will not win me many friends; Discounting little known brands like ''slosh'' etc, there are 10s if not 100s of thousands of caswell, por-15 etc kits sold annually, vs how many that fail. lve used a Por-15 kit, and ok im ananily retentive about these kinda jobs and its a short day of buggering about to do a very thorough job. Taking this into account and some of the royalty rusted to fcuk tanks ive seen people try and coat, i think most of the lining failures are due to 'pilot error'. Whether it be knowing better, and substituting cleaning agents etc, ''short cuts'', or with por-15 for example the killer, not drying the tank thoroughly, and i mean hours with a hair dryer moving the tank around thoroughly. Spend a hour doing searches, for every one dissenter you will find many who have either done many tanks or had tanks lined that have worked for years, and thats people who have done it, not those regurgitating info they have read on forums ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and no im not flogging tank lining kits on the side  nor do i own a rad shop, who, here have been lining tanks for years successfully, this it not a new idea folks, done right it works. either that or perhaps ethanol strikes again |
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Post by steeley on Apr 25, 2015 18:58:00 GMT 1
I am afraid all steel tanks are going to be attacked by this petrol.so there are going to be a lot more kits of various types sold.as anyoldiron said if the instructions on said kits are not followed then the end result will be poor. apparently this petrol also attacks plastic petrol tanks plus fuel lines and various seals in fuel systems. also some one posted here or else where that carb parts are being eroded .I wish I knew what the answer to it was. all I can say is bugger lol.
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Post by muttsnuts on Apr 26, 2015 21:13:20 GMT 1
I've just done 2 tanks today with POR15 and as stated by "anyoldiron" the key is in the prep, use the chemicals stated and make sure you protect the paint on the tank very well or it will strip it off, that said, the cleaning/degreasing followed by the metal prep are key steps and need to be done correctly, however, the killer is the last step, getting the tank totally dry and it does need to be totally dry.
I had been using the "air dryer" for over 2hrs at 20min stints on the tank and it all looked very dry, anyway, I thought I'll tip it forward and see if any moisture collates at the front of the tank. I went off to do something else for 30mins, when I checked back there was at least a tea spoon of water at the front of the tank, I mopped that up with some tissue and then repeated the air dryer trick for another hour, I then left the tank for several hours tipped forward, this time nothing
So there you go, a good tip, tip the tank forward so any moisture collates at the bottom near the filler cap, then mop it up using some tissue etc, then dry it again !
the instructions cleary state for POR15 that the tank MUST be absolutely dry otherwise the liner will fail, so I suspect many failures are down to user error, if I hadn't have tipped the tank forward and left it for a while, I suspect I might have been one of those people saying they aren't much cop - time will tell, I'll now leave to cure for 4 or 5 days (probably a week) and then test them out
HTH
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 27, 2015 8:08:01 GMT 1
It's amazing how long water will stay in the seems.
If you consider the construction and where it is welded there is a good few mm for the water to get trapped never mind any rust in there to be neutralised.
Only tanks I have done were not painted so easy to get a blow lamp round the seams to make sure.
Then sat in front of a fan heater for 2 hours. Was half an hour before I could even pick it up.
It also does not like puddling so I left mine upside down after draining the excess so any thicker parts were not immersed in fuel.
Left it for a month to make sure it cured
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 27, 2015 12:09:55 GMT 1
I think whats happening is the water starts to evaporate because it is heated and some of it stays in the tank as vapour because there is no flow of dry air into the tank, The colder the air the less moisture there is in it generally speaking.
I have seen lots of water collect on the under side of aluminium rocker covers even though the engines are kept at 60 or 70 degrees C when there is a slight water contamination in the oil.
Just brazed a tank and that was not so easy as i thought.
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Post by steeley on Apr 27, 2015 18:08:54 GMT 1
hmmm ,I am firing the garden incinerator up later seems a shame to fire it up with out a job/tank liner being burnt out lol.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 27, 2015 19:25:31 GMT 1
hmmm ,I am firing the garden incinerator up later seems a shame to fire it up with out a job/tank liner being burnt out lol. I used to use an oil oil drum to burn all the garden rubbish. Once it was really a lot of green stuff with conifer branches as well. Well any way it did not want to burn well even after i poured lots of old engine oil and brake fluid that i collect from the garage. I then had an eureka moment (so i thought). I connected a long piece of steel pipe i had lying around to my compressor and shoved the end of the pipe in the under side of the oil drum and fed air in. It did not seem to do much so i left it and started fiddling with the lawnmower in the garage. About ten minutes later the neighbour came running in complaining about a large fire. when i took a look at the oil drum it had collapsed due to the large amount of heat generated. luckily it was a grassed area. I wouldn't want a visit from Dusty or his colleagues in a professional role. |
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Post by steeley on Apr 28, 2015 7:32:39 GMT 1
didn't light it in the end we had a drop of rain here and my get up and go went.I have had this one glowing well. emptied it out the other day and found a strip of steel with some screws in it the screws and some of the steel showed signs of melting. I keep an eye on it and have a bucket of water handy plus I have a steel lid to put on it. fire is good,but can turn into a nightmare.
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Post by goodayle on May 2, 2015 23:00:11 GMT 1
If you send a small sample of the liner to Petseal they will do an analysis an then provide you with a chemical for removing it. I did this last year and they sent me a tin of methylene chloride. This is the chemical that used to be used in paint stripper until it went all environmentally friendly and no longer strips paint. Poured this stuff in my tank and it removed the liner in 24 hours.
A word of warning if you go down this route. Protect the paintwork by wrapping the tank in cling film and tin foil as even the vapours will damage the paint. Also do in a well ventilated area (outside is best) otherwise you will be ill.
GOOD LUCK!
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Post by bladerunner2205 on May 3, 2015 9:00:09 GMT 1
You can buy it by the gallon on eBay ^^^^^ for £25 and use the rest as paintstripper seeing as nitromors doesn't work anymore now they removed it! It's carcinogenic tho so handle with care
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nor do i own a rad shop, who, here have been lining tanks for years successfully, this it not a new idea folks, done right it works.
