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Post by paulsl on Nov 7, 2014 18:13:10 GMT 1
Hi all, Managed to get my rebuilt F2 MOT,d for the first time in 14 years. Over the moon  . However on the way home she was not running well at all, was pissin with rain, cutting out and picking up slowly then just conked out. After a 3 mile push home put it in the shed and left it for a few days to calm down. What a bummer  . Have now done some investigation work and found there is no spark at plugs. Checked all connections and seem ok. It has a brand new coil, leads, caps and plugs, a new wiring loom all from Norbo so dont think it can be there. Then went on to check coils as per Haynes manual. The readings were 4.5ohms for red/brown leads (recommended 4.1 +- 20%), and 144ohms for brown/green leads (recommended 113 +-20%) at a temp of 20deg. It was probably half that temp in shed. Does this mean my stator is knackered? Any help would be much appreciated as i'm desperate to get out and ride after a year long build!!!! TIA Paul |
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Post by Denzil on Nov 7, 2014 22:39:32 GMT 1
Probably fnd it will be your CDI. The readings are near identical to the readings I had although it was about 7* outside not the 20* they said. But I did and checked everything.
Your stator sounds like its ok else the values will be way out.
Sorry fella but my money is on the CDI. If you can't get one then maybe go down the route of a Zeel??
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2014 23:55:42 GMT 1
Stator sounds just about in spec so would not say that.
I would look at wiring. It may just be coincidence that it was pissin it but usually contributes. Take the rh switch off the bars or disconnect the wiring and see if it has a spark then.
1UA CDI's usually reliable but not unheard of
Steve
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Post by muttsnuts on Nov 8, 2014 11:07:02 GMT 1
I'd look at kill switch, water in it and shorting to earth, thereby killing the engine, just take he switch off the bike, let it hang loose and see if it sparks, if it doesn't then do as Steve suggests above and disconnect the wiring from the kill switch and see if it sparks then
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Post by paulsl on Nov 8, 2014 15:37:31 GMT 1
Thanks guys. Thats good news re stator. Will have a go at switch/wiring and keep fingers crossed. Worst case will look at purchasing a zeel. The spending never seems to stop. LOL.
Cheers
Paul
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Post by muttsnuts on Nov 8, 2014 17:45:41 GMT 1
ignitech unit is cheaper than a zeel and you can program it via your laptop
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Post by paulsl on Nov 21, 2014 17:00:21 GMT 1
At last got me finger out and checked kill switch as advised. No joy. Checked coil, pickup and both seem fine. Plugs are brand new however BR9ES rather than BR8ES. Would this make any difference? Is it unusual for brand new plugs to fail after only 10 miles? Putting to one side the plugs only leaves CDI. The bike is standard apart from 1 sizeup rebore. What type of Zeel/Ignitech would you guys recommend for a plug in replacement. I dont have any plans to do any tuning work.
Many Thanks
Paul
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 21, 2014 17:58:03 GMT 1
At last got me finger out and checked kill switch as advised. No joy. Checked coil, pickup and both seem fine. Plugs are brand new however BR9ES rather than BR8ES. Would this make any difference? Is it unusual for brand new plugs to fail after only 10 miles? Putting to one side the plugs only leaves CDI. The bike is standard apart from 1 sizeup rebore. What type of Zeel/Ignitech would you guys recommend for a plug in replacement. I dont have any plans to do any tuning work. Many Thanks Paul Plugs should not affect it. Norbo does a fixed program zeal that needs no programming. Simply cut the plugs off the old cdi, solder them on the zeal wiring and take a 12v from the brown wire at the pv controller, job done. Steve |
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Post by paulsl on Nov 21, 2014 18:16:29 GMT 1
Thanks Steve. Looks like best option.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2014 22:48:07 GMT 1
Plugs are brand new however BR9ES rather than BR8ES. Would this make any difference? Many Thanks Paul I run BR9s. Apparently, they run a little cooler than the BR8s and are good option for regular thrashing. Never had a problem with them. |
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Post by muddyfox on Nov 22, 2014 12:09:55 GMT 1
stupid question are you earthing the plugs against the engine? get some new plugs, they can just die,
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Post by paulsl on Nov 22, 2014 13:35:55 GMT 1
Hi qwerty123, yes tried various different points. Will give new plugs a go in a last gasp effort to save buying a new CDI.
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Post by muddyfox on Nov 22, 2014 13:50:11 GMT 1
have you pulled the stator cover to see if you have water in there? while your there check it hasnt destroyed the woodruff key and stator isnt spinning free
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Post by paulsl on Nov 22, 2014 14:10:47 GMT 1
Yes had the flywheel off to make sure all dry. Checked wiring and pick up at same time and all ok. Woodruff key ok also. Thanks for advice.
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Post by jobby on Nov 22, 2014 15:49:42 GMT 1
lots of fake ngk plugs about
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Post by paulsl on Dec 6, 2014 22:48:32 GMT 1
Tried a new set of plugs with no joy. Opened the wallet and bought a new Zeel from Norbo. After wiring up on a like for like basis am left with two additional output wires. One is blue and red the other yellow and green. Any ideas where they go?
Cheers
Paul
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 6, 2014 23:29:14 GMT 1
If it is the fixed program zeel cdi-rz4 the blue/red connects to the red(red/wh) of the stator and the green/black is an output of 1 pulse per revolution for a non standard tacho so can be left not connected.
The red from the cdi should go to the brown feed of the pv controller or a switched 12v from the fuse box and the black to the frame earth
Hope that helps
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 6, 2014 23:49:54 GMT 1
Gave you the wrong green there
Green yellow goes to the black/ yellow that is the signal to pv controller and ypvs tacho
Steve
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Post by paulsl on Dec 7, 2014 0:44:11 GMT 1
Thanks a lot Steve. A wealth of information. It is a CDI - RZ4. When you mention red to brown of pv controller does that mean the red/white from CDI? If so where is best place to pick up this connection. Does the green/black still get left unconnected? Excuse my ignorance and multitude of questions but advice much appreciated.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 7, 2014 12:35:03 GMT 1
Thanks a lot Steve. A wealth of information. It is a CDI - RZ4. When you mention red to brown of pv controller does that mean the red/white from CDI? If so where is best place to pick up this connection. Does the green/black still get left unconnected? Excuse my ignorance and multitude of questions but advice much appreciated. Norfolk should have emailed you the pdf of the wiring diagram. The colours are not an exact match so some are the same and some ore totally different The red on the zeel is the power feed. You need to connect it to a 12v that is only live when the ignition is on. I tapped it into the brown wire at the power valve controller. It's the 3 way plug with a brown a black and a black/ yellow. Yes the black/green is left unconnected. Steve |
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Post by paulsl on Dec 7, 2014 13:36:15 GMT 1
Thanks again m8. Didnt get pdf from Norbo. Wii hopefully get it sorted this afternoon.
Cheers
Paul
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Post by wizard on Dec 7, 2014 16:13:26 GMT 1
Change them R plugs back to normal ones
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Post by paulsl on Dec 14, 2014 18:10:59 GMT 1
She runs. So thanks to all for advice and help.
Cheers
Paul
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 14, 2014 18:12:23 GMT 1
She runs. So thanks to all for advice and help. Cheers Paul Glad you got there in the end Steve |
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Post by paulsl on Dec 14, 2014 18:15:15 GMT 1
Thanks m8. Norbo sent through wiring diagram and it all made sense. . Thanks again for input. |
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. However on the way home she was not running well at all, was pissin with rain, cutting out and picking up slowly then just conked out. After a 3 mile push home put it in the shed and left it for a few days to calm down. What a bummer 
. Have now done some investigation work and found there is no spark at plugs. Checked all connections and seem ok. It has a brand new coil, leads, caps and plugs, a new wiring loom all from Norbo so dont think it can be there. Then went on to check coils as per Haynes manual. The readings were 4.5ohms for red/brown leads (recommended 4.1 +- 20%), and 144ohms for brown/green leads (recommended 113 +-20%) at a temp of 20deg. It was probably half that temp in shed. Does this mean my stator is knackered? Any help would be much appreciated as i'm desperate to get out and ride after a year long build!!!!
