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Post by agustanz on May 19, 2014 8:55:11 GMT 1
Had a go at this today.... I am BLOODY close to going through the metal at the sides... Anyone else had issues with not having enough metal their? The worst spot is right where the "4LO" is... Buggered to dermels today so off the buy another one in the morning... Regards Gavin |
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Post by 4l04ever on May 19, 2014 9:06:26 GMT 1
Mine went through the side :-( Had to put some Devcon epoxy resin on it.
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Post by agustanz on May 19, 2014 11:06:19 GMT 1
could you use reed spacers so you don't take so much metal out ? I am using 5mm reed spacers and still think I am getting to close to going through... |
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Post by howard on May 19, 2014 13:10:55 GMT 1
Mick Abbey did mine last year for £25 , no worth the worry doing yourself
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Post by ianr4863 on May 19, 2014 17:58:21 GMT 1
Just had mine done by Bob Farnham . He told me that its a pain in the neck however many times youve done it .
I did have reed spacers in but hated the way they scrunch up the air box rubbers .
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Post by slinger on May 19, 2014 18:06:18 GMT 1
I always weld in the corners first because it gets super thin, almost impossible to weld them after. You can get the new v-force 4's in if you weld them. But unless you alter the inlet roof it's a pointless exercise IMO.
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Post by agustanz on May 19, 2014 22:19:03 GMT 1
Thanks for the info guys... I late to weld now... to far away to send the the UK to have them done...  I will look into the best epoxy liquid metal type stuff and build up either side and keep going. Regards Gavin |
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Post by bare on May 20, 2014 4:14:21 GMT 1
Write to E Erlenbach. (http://erlenbachracing.net/ ) For His input on fitting RZ Reed blocks to an LC.
He claims they are/were not required :-)
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Post by steeley on May 20, 2014 6:08:50 GMT 1
why not make the windows in the reed block bigger.
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 9:51:15 GMT 1
Fitted them. Bought epoxy putty and put that on either side on both inlets.
Then (with the new dermal) proceeded to "fit" the reed blocks in. I didn't end up cutting through the aluminium, BUT it must be... "only wafer thin".
Will do the final fit tomorrow with them all bolted up.
Pictures to come.
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 10:01:44 GMT 1
Standard LC on left ported (but not polished yet) on right. 
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 10:03:52 GMT 1
Standard LC reed block on left, RZ fitted to LC barrel on right.
If the photo works.....
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 10:12:54 GMT 1
why not make the windows in the reed block bigger. I think you will see from the photos that it's not worth pissing about with the tiny LC reed blocks when the RZ ones are a relatively easy swap.
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 10:20:52 GMT 1
Write to E Erlenbach. (http://erlenbachracing.net/ ) For His input on fitting RZ Reed blocks to an LC. He claims they are/were not required :-) Might depend on what you are doing with the rest of the engine...
From what I have read it's a good mod when combined with RZ manifolds and larger carbs.... Can't flow less air, but the air speed would be down a little. Their are always swings and roundabouts with tuning.
Regards Gavin
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 10:42:02 GMT 1
Question... if you look at my pictures you can see that the air comes through the reed blocks and can then either go into the crankcase or hit two little bloody walls either side of the top of the port! That bit of iron barrel coming up MUST interfere with the passage of the air??
Is it the done thing to fill and smooth that area... without changing the port hole shape... and trying to keep the port from changing dimentions...
Thoughts?
I will take to the barrels tomorrow and do some porting... 1.5mm up on the exhaust port and a little knife edging of the transfers and some general cleaning up.
Regards
Gavin
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Post by 4l04ever on May 20, 2014 11:45:25 GMT 1
Don't go too mad on the exhaust ports as you can't put the metal back once it has gone! I have seen 53hp on a Dynopro dyno with my LC on close to standard exhaust ports....
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Post by slinger on May 20, 2014 13:08:06 GMT 1
Question... if you look at my pictures you can see that the air comes through the reed blocks and can then either go into the crankcase or hit two little bloody walls either side of the top of the port! That bit of iron barrel coming up MUST interfere with the passage of the air?? Is it the done thing to fill and smooth that area... without changing the port hole shape... and trying to keep the port from changing dimentions... Thoughts? I will take to the barrels tomorrow and do some porting... 1.5mm up on the exhaust port and a little knife edging of the transfers and some general cleaning up. Regards Gavin Yep remove them big old wind breaks in the inlet, you want to lift them to the bottom ring @bdc. |
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Post by agustanz on May 20, 2014 21:28:51 GMT 1
Yep remove them big old wind breaks in the inlet, you want to lift them to the bottom ring @bdc. That make sense to me. I will do that. Thanks. And while I have a piston in their I will check the pistons alignment with the ports in general.
Regards Gavin
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Post by agustanz on May 31, 2014 9:36:16 GMT 1
YPVS reed blocks and spacers fitted...  |
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Post by agustanz on May 31, 2014 9:37:18 GMT 1
After cleaning up and excess metal taken off...  |
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