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Post by paulsl on Jan 8, 2014 23:25:30 GMT 1
Hi Folks, just joined up and this first post (thread?). I m am currently restoring a 1990 F2 that has been abandoned (by previous owner) for some 10 years in all weathers.
Have just started refurb of forks and have come across problem that cannot get my head around. The top of the stanchions does not have a bolt head and only a plate with air valve. Manual shows stanchions with bolt to allow for removal. Anybody come across this before? Any tips would be appreciated.
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Post by oldelsieboy on Jan 8, 2014 23:28:51 GMT 1
Hi Folks, just joined up and this first post (thread?). I m am currently restoring a 1990 F2 that has been abandoned (by previous owner) for some 10 years in all weathers. Have just started refurb of forks and have come across problem that cannot get my head around. The top of the stanchions does not have a bolt head and only a plate with air valve. Manual shows stanchions with bolt to allow for removal. Anybody come across this before? Any tips would be appreciated. Is the air valve angled? Do the stanchions have a "waisted" section near the top? OEB |
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Post by paulsl on Jan 8, 2014 23:52:31 GMT 1
Air valve is not angled but perpendicular to flat plate. Cant say have noticed "waisted" section but will have a check tomorrow. Thanks for your response.
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gringo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by gringo on Jan 9, 2014 0:03:03 GMT 1
Can you take a picture ,I,ve a set of forks of I believe an lc2 or a A36 ? Which I might be able to help you with
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Post by paulsl on Jan 9, 2014 0:08:23 GMT 1
Will get picture tomorrow and post. Thanks for replying.  |
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Post by ianr4863 on Jan 9, 2014 2:41:00 GMT 1
I have a pair exactly the same on my 4LO .
The Haynes manual does clearly show them .
35mm straight stanchion , flat plate with straight air valve . Black plastic cap over .
Get a mate to push down the plate with a socket and bar or similar over the air valve.
Then get the circlip out .
Wiggle the plate about and it will come out under a bit of upward pressure .
BE CAREFUL of spring pressure .
Speak to Norbo for new bushes and seals .
Hope this helps
Ian
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Post by paulsl on Jan 9, 2014 5:13:37 GMT 1
Brilliant. Thanks m8. Paul |
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 9, 2014 8:27:19 GMT 1
Hi, This is the "waisted" section talked about;  Forks go from 35mm to 32mm to 35mm again. F2 forks are 35mm all the way. Plus with F2 forks, the bolt spacing for the calipers is 83mm, earlier forks have narrower spacings (same as an Lc). Dusty |
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Post by paulsl on Jan 9, 2014 19:12:53 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty & Gringo. Definitely straight forks. Thanks Ian that worked a treat.
Very impressed with forum and all seem a good bunch of folk.
Cheers all
Paul
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higgsy
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 458
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Post by higgsy on Jan 9, 2014 21:56:23 GMT 1
The later version of the Haynes manual has a section on the F2 (the one with the blue F2 on the front). The plate is held in by a circlip, not threaded like the earlier 31K forks, as ianr4863 stated it's easier with some assistance but you can manage it yourself, having the front of the bike supported on an under headstock front paddock stand makes things a hell of a lot easier!
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