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Post by Eyrey1 on Nov 30, 2013 2:04:20 GMT 1
just rebuilt it , and im not too sure about the haynes manual does the cable coming out of the left side of the pv go to the top and the right one the bottom ? ive done them like this and it doesnt seem right , also after i turn the key and it cycles do you set it to full open ? thanks in advance ! a few things in the manual arnt correct .
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Post by Eyrey1 on Nov 30, 2013 2:08:56 GMT 1
looked in the archive bit but nothing and did a search no results ,well too many to look through and not what i need
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 426
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Post by phil38 on Nov 30, 2013 7:28:02 GMT 1
Looking at the parts book, I think that's the right way round. Haynes manual set up instructions are correct - you adjust the cables with the valve position pegged with a drill bit: when it cycles it should return to that position.
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Post by Tone on Nov 30, 2013 7:39:48 GMT 1
Pretty sure the LH cable goes to the top to and the RH cable to the bottom so the cables cross over like you say. If you want to check if you look at the pulley housing just below where the cables screw in you will see a number which I think is 1 on the left and 2 on the right. These should tally up with the numbers on the servo motor. You set the valves in the fully open positon as you say. So after you turn the ignition on and it does it's cycle you set the "U" part of the pulley with the hole in the housing/barrel. You can use a 4mm drill bit shank to check they line up. Make sure you remove the drill before turning back on the ignition.
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Post by 1966baz on Nov 30, 2013 8:33:46 GMT 1
Bang on Tone, that is how I've always done it.
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higgsy
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 458
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Post by higgsy on Nov 30, 2013 10:30:33 GMT 1
The cables cross over, it doesn't look right at first glance, there are numbers on the servo motor and the PV pulley to make sure you can't get it wrong.
I don't trust the drill bit method, with the wear, tuned barrels and misalignment with the barrels these days, I get them close on the pulley cut out then check them by putting my finger up the exhaust port with the PV's ignition on (so the valves are open), the front of the valves should be smooth to the port.Cycle the ignition and check once you've adjusted, the PV's can settle in a different position every time.
Most bikes are either out on the wheel, have a miss match between the valve positions or in the case of the bike I worked on this week, the right hand PV wasn't turning at all. Once you know the best setting for your PV's mark it on the PV pulley.
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Post by Eyrey1 on Nov 30, 2013 16:31:46 GMT 1
cheers lads i will try again higgsy thats how ive allways set my other bikes pv's up and was doing the same with this as you say you cant depend on the marks
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Post by Pidz on Nov 30, 2013 18:27:20 GMT 1
As higgsy says. It's always my preferred method. Although the drill bit/line up method is advised in the books, worn parts can be a little bit out. You can't beat putting the fingers up to check a more accurate gauge. I'm not a gynaecologist, but I'll have a damn good look! Before I put the pulley casing on, I will use an Allen key to gently rotate the valves 360 each way to make sure they are smooth and work together. Also don't over tighten the cables. This puts way too much work on the servo. Hope all goes well.
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Post by bare on Nov 30, 2013 19:41:22 GMT 1
Cable tightness is a tricky one. The servo is Strong and durable. It can tolerate 'some' tightness. Not tight enough and the valve action can be sloppy as the things are full of areas for slop.
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