RGV VJ22/23 swinger on YPVS.... a question...

Thanks Steve, Great info. A couple of questions...

Does NK use the same plates as the Andre PDF?

From the info I had from the guy who fitted the H arm it looked like he didnt shave the H arm and used the end cap seals on the outside without issue. He is using a 23 banana if that helps?

I always thought the R6 shock didnt fit as the horizontal reservoir hit the swinger as it compressed, did I read that wrong?

Do you have any pics of your setup from the underside at all?

Not sure if NK kit is the same but is basically a pair of plates and associated spacers to mount the rgv linkage to the centre stand brackets to keep original rgv geometry.

Don't have any pics, punted it on ebay for 25 quid.

If you made offset dogbones you would not need to shave the h section.

Think the R6 shock fits with a little off the top mount on frame but that would be on ypvs arm, not the RGV. Fazer 600 shock may be better as it has no res.

Steve

I reckon the NK and Andre solutions are much the same from what you've said. Here are two pics (not mine) of the Andre brackets in situ, I guess they look familiar to your NK setup?





One other question I had, you said 'I ran it like that for a couple of years before fitting an NK kit when I changed to the braced RGV arm that uses dog bones with the top bearings and sleeve attached.' Can I ask what these top bearings and sleeve are? My dogbones have yet to part company with my banana arm as I just cant shift the bolt. Is there a bearing and sleeve in there I should worry about if heating the bolt up to shift them?

Good point on offset (S shaped) dogbones, tho it didnt look like he did that, maybe the vj23 banana arm is different to the 22. hmm... Either way you've convinced me that the plates solution is better handling and I have the materials and know how to make em, so will do that.

Ive done an R6 shock in my 85 F1, using the OEM YPVS arm, and yes the frame mod is needed for the adjuster, but it is simple to do, but as you mention I believe the issue is that the RGV arm is braced and hits the res on compression. Love the quality of the R6 unit, shame it wont fit as I have one in my spares box

I have heard the Fazer6 and the F4i will work, the F4i has a remote res. Is the Fazer6 multi adjustable like the F4i? I will get the better shock I guess. Or perhaps should I just bite the bullet and get and RGV hagon / nitron from the outset, or since its in a different config will that not really work the same as it would in the RGV?

Thanks for your help guys, talking this stuff through helps even when you've done a few conversions already LOL The RGV-in-the-LC seems a simple conversion now Ive done one, I reckon this will seem even simpler as there is no welding, its just bugging me to get the most info for now before I start. I will write this stuff all up on my site in a single easy to use page when its done, should be easier to share that way, hopefully that should help anyone doing it later, tho really the RGV parts are too much money and oh so passe now LOL

Jon if you decide to make your own plates these are the dimensions needed to get the linkage to work correctly.

BTW yes my previous build I used the plate system bolted to the centre stand mount & a banana arm.

Both worked well, due to the fact that the braced swing arm has a bearing tube with the dog bones welded onto it, it's not so easy to change the length of the dog bones, therefore the lower linkage mount is the same distance below & back from the swing arm pivot as on an RGV to ensure it works as it should. With the plate system these are designed to be used with the banana arm where the dog bones are separate & are made to a different length from original to suit. I actually shortened the length of the dog bones by 10mm to raise the back end of the bike up by 50mm as it sits far to low in my opinion with the dimension given on the PDF

As Nik said the braced arm has the bearing sleeve as part of the dog bones and just 2 lugs on the swinger for it to bolt to.

That pic of the plates is the same as the NK kit.

Did find a pic of it, forgot I fitted the NK kit to my N/vj21 hybrid

Steve

Right Jon,

Found some pics I forgot I had on photobucket.

Here is the modded H link and dog bones for the RGV arm to YPVS, the 2 small sleeves are the swing arm pivot reducers



Here is the Suzuki braced arm dog bones



Here is the NK braced arm kit ( banana arm kit is same but the dog bones are seperate without the sleeve)



and fitted





Hope that helps

would be really easy on the h section to machine it slightly smaller than the inner sleeve and fit a couple of o rings to solve the lubrication problem

the nk plates are stainless, there was a bit of steel grindings on everything from grinding down the captive bolt from the centre stand bolts, its in all the corners of the frame in the pic which flash rusted.

mine also had the joints where the stand mounts meet the bottom rails seam welded both sides to re inforce.

steve

Geometry only wrong for YPVS shock, as long as you got an uprated shock it could be made to work but a bit off guesswork. At least the rgv set up is proven.

A bit like fitting another bikes shock like R6 or Fazer 6, it will improve the handling but not really as good as a cutom built or "matched" unit.

Steve