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Post by calum64 on Sept 28, 2013 14:09:19 GMT 1
I've been away from bikes for 20 odd years before deciding to rebuild my lc. I see a lot of talk about tank liners my tank has a bit of rust inside but not too bad I hope its been sitting empty for 30 years. What does lining the tank consist of and where would I get this done.
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Post by spencerd on Sept 28, 2013 14:40:11 GMT 1
I used a product called KREEM on my tank which from memory cost about £50.00 from Ebay.
Its a three part product consisting of a chemical flush (chuck a handful of steel nuts in the tank at this stage), a neutraliser flush & the White liquid lining solution.
Its a bit time consuming & tiresome (lots of shaking, turning & elevating) but appears to do the job & I believe is resilient to modern fuel additives.
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Post by steven on Sept 28, 2013 14:53:15 GMT 1
Hi,
I used POR 15, it is available from "Frost Restoration" on ebay, and seems to be popular with other people too.
Its approx £40-£50 for a motobike tank kit.
I was delighted with the results, tank looks like new on the inside now.
steven.
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Post by martyngsxr1 on Sept 28, 2013 16:57:54 GMT 1
Don't want to line my tank I just want to try and get rid of the rust inside as I have heard about the liners comeing away from the inside of the tank is it possible to use por15 apart from missing out the liner at the end
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Post by 1966baz on Sept 28, 2013 20:58:05 GMT 1
For me also Por 15 has worked very well on a 4l0 tank and an fzr 1000 tank. Definitely recommend.
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Post by majortom on Sept 28, 2013 21:42:48 GMT 1
I did my tank with POR15 it looks like silver paint when you look inside the tank, seals pin hole (worked on mine) and stops ethonol rotting your tank ,
Well recommended
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Post by copper99 on Sept 29, 2013 19:39:43 GMT 1
Can you apply these sealers without wrecking your paint? I would like to do mine but not so sure after a recent respray, if I get any splashes of sealer on the paint, would it mark it?
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Post by winnerevo1 on Sept 29, 2013 20:21:39 GMT 1
Can you apply these sealers without wrecking your paint? I would like to do mine but not so sure after a recent respray, if I get any splashes of sealer on the paint, would it mark it? I have done 2 tanks with good paint, you just have to be very, very careful. Both times I hated doing it because of the paint but I didn't really have a choice. The next time will be before paint so should be a fairly painless job. If you don't clean the sealer off immediately, it's there to stay. |
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Post by steeley on Sept 29, 2013 20:29:30 GMT 1
mask around the filler before you start.then make a cardboared tape plug to stuff in the filler hole when you start.follow the instructions and it should be ok.
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Post by steven on Sept 30, 2013 23:17:22 GMT 1
Hi, I did two tanks with POR 15 a few weeks ago, after doing the electrolosis thing to get all the rust out. You can do "painted" tanks with POR 15, but it is messy stuff, and sticks like shite to a blanket! I made up this wee tool to seal my tanks so I could presure test them. It sealed fine, although I had to use a fibre washer and another nut on top of it to seal it perfectly when I was pressure testing. It sealed my tanks when I filled one with acetone to remove an old tank liner, which took about two weeks, and I also used it to seal my tanks perfectly when doing the POR 15 treatment. I wanted to be sure that when I was turning my tanks upside down to ensure a good coating all over the inside of the tanks with POR 15, that none would run out onto my tanks, it did the job just fine. I also had a petrol tank that someone decided to use as a seat in my garage, and put an arse sized dent on the top of the tank.  I sealed the tank with this, and pumped the tank up with a bicycle pump, I got to about 2psi or there abouts, and the tank went BANG, and I had a brown hemorage ! The arse shaped dent popped back out, and you would never know it was even dented, its now in my loft as a spare. steven.             |
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Post by Eyrey1 on Oct 1, 2013 1:07:13 GMT 1
ive used caswell and tapox both for bio fuels 100 % ethanol so should be ok
watch out for people selling the old por15 as ethanol eats it
check the label for bio fuel proof.
its all about £50
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Post by copper99 on Oct 1, 2013 19:10:11 GMT 1
Thats a nice tool for the job Steven (stop sblack personing at the back...)
Do you ever loan it out.......?
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Post by steven on Oct 1, 2013 22:26:21 GMT 1
Hi Copper,
If you want to PM me you address I will post you one of your very own, its very easy to make.
steven.
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Post by steven on Oct 2, 2013 12:22:22 GMT 1
Hi, Someone asked me about doing the electrolosis thing to remove rust from the inside of the petrol tanks. Here is a copy and paste of a post I put on the LC Club recently about when I did it. steven. Still at it yet, but on the home strait now, and will be glad to see it finished. Spent a bit of time over the past few weekends cleaning two petrol tanks out and putting por 15 tank liners in them. Cleaning the tanks out before the por 15 was used consisted of putting loads of small nuts inside the tank and shaking it for ages, then shaking it again for ages to get them out, I found that a length of jack chain, that they use to hang industrial lights from is just as good, and much easier to get back out. One tank had an old tank liner inside it, to get that out I bought 10ltrs of acetone from ebay, I had read that it only took a few hours to melt the old liner, but I had to keep it in the tank for about 2 weeks, and shake it regularly, but eventualy it melted it, and it all ran out like milk. Then I read up loads online about the electrolisis or reverse electrolosis thing, and was amazed with the results. There is varying info on how to do it, low amps over a longer time, or high amps over a shorter time. My preferance was high amps over a shorter time.... as it made more bubbles, seemed to get out more rust, and was generaly more of a violent reaction, as soon as the battery was connected, the tank started foaming and bubbeling and spewing rust out all over the slabs. I tried various power supplys, and got it up to 10 amps or so using a heavy duty car battery, a bike battery only lasted about half an hour beofre it was flat,even with a battery charger connected. The big car battery lasted several hours and I was delighted with the results, the tanks were imaculate inside on completion. I have sice read that an old PC power supply is the thing to use, as you get good amps out of them. It is quite messy, and put big rust marks down the sides of the tanks, but a bit of Tcut removed it afterwards. I found it quite interesting doing the electrolosis, they say "water and electicity" dont mix but I was astonished with the results and how clean they both were, the only problem is trying to stop them flash rusting.I sat for ages with "the war department,s" hair drier and then left them next to the radiator for a few days to ensure they were completely dry before fitting the liners. I pressure tested the tanks before and after doing all this to 2 psi, purely out of curiosity, and all was well. It was a lot of messing about, but I recon it was worth it. The tanks look like brand new inside now, and Im delighted with the results. I posted one tank and panel set to Kas Racepaint to be sprayed "mars bar" colours, They have an 8 week turnaround time at the moment. I kept the two tins that the tank liner came in, and once they had gone hard, I poured petrol in one and acetone in the other, and kept topping them up every few days for about a week, nothing melted or even got soggy.So all seems to be ok. The bike is finished, and Iv done quite a few hear cycles and re tourqued the head etc, I have even driven it the length of the hall ! I am on holiday in a couple of weeks, and will be taking it for its mot, with its scabby "yellow" clothes on, as thats what colour it is on the V5. Once I get my tank and panels back from Kas Racepaint I will swap it over to black. steven. s824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0999.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0998.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0996.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0993.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0992.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0981.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0979.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0973.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0962.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0957.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0954.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0953.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0950.jpg.htmls824.photobucket.com/user/tango11/media/Image0946.jpg.html |
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Post by steven on Oct 2, 2013 12:30:32 GMT 1
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Post by nikfubar on Oct 2, 2013 14:11:11 GMT 1
That looks very complicated, I just used washing soda solution & a battery charger.  |
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Post by steven on Oct 2, 2013 23:11:49 GMT 1
Hi Nik, I tried the battery charger alone method too, but my battery charger is only an old 4 amp thing and didnt show anything near 4 amps on my amp meter when I tried it, the tank didnt seem to "fizz" or "bubble" much either. I read that if your using low amps you need to leave it all connected up for a day or more as it takes a while. I read that the more amps you can get into it, the quicker the reaction will be. I didnt want to leave it all connected up and running over night, so I did it all in the same day using approx 10 amps or more, as that was all I could get out the big car battery. I recon that the stronger or more conductive your solution is, the more amps it will draw?? But im no a lecky. While I was reading up about the electrolosis, I stumbled across the stuff about copper plating. I ended up buying some copper sulphate from ebay and trying copper plating too, which was quite impressive. How about steting up an LC tank full of copper sulphate solution, and copper plating the inside of the tank?  That would stop it rusting would it not? ? Im wondering if that is "doable" ?? steven. |
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Post by steeley on Oct 3, 2013 3:30:51 GMT 1
steven hi, I had similar thoughts on plating the inside of a tank I was looking at a nickel kit .cant see why plating the inside is not do able.must be some platters on this forum.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 7:38:54 GMT 1
The more conductive the solution, the less resistance there is so will allow the amps to travel through it. Volts push amps through resistance. Basically, a volt is the amount of force needed to push 1 amp through 1 ohm of resistance. So if you have a circuit that has a resistance of 500 ohm, and needs 10ma (1/100 of an amp) to power up, you need 5v to power it. There is a typical misunderstanding about volts. Usually people see a "high voltage sign" and think that the volts can cause harm. Actually, it's that everything has resistance, including your body. So the high voltage could push a large amount of current (amps) through you, and the amps is what does the harm, It is just the voltage that enables it We have copper wires in our houses, cars and motorbikes as copper is a good conductor of electricity, an even better electrical conductor is silver but everybody would have the wiring ripped out of there houses if we used that  Anybody guess what I do for a living lol |
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Post by calum64 on Oct 3, 2013 7:51:38 GMT 1
Are you a plumber? ?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 3, 2013 8:14:45 GMT 1
steven hi, I had similar thoughts on plating the inside of a tank I was looking at a nickel kit .cant see why plating the inside is not do able.must be some platters on this forum. Theoretically it is possible but it practice won't work well. Electricity is also lazy, it will take the easiest route. If you buy a plating kit you will notice the nickel or zinc plates are placed all around the plating bath to ensure even current flow and plating. Inside a tank if you placed a nickel or zinc rod in through the filler hole the electricity ( and plating ) would simply take the easiest, shortest path leaving the corners untouched. Yes rd lc lazy, me too. Steve |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 8:38:58 GMT 1
was chatting to a woman on a night out a few years ago and she asked what I did for a living, so I told her and she said oh that's an easy job just joining the same colour wires together, I left shaking my head wondering why I went to school for so long if it was as easy as that  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 3, 2013 8:49:27 GMT 1
was chatting to a woman on a night out a few years ago and she asked what I did for a living, so I told her and she said oh that's an easy job just joining the same colour wires together, I left shaking my head wondering why I went to school for so long if it was as easy as that unlike you chatting to a woman on a night out ( sarcastic tone ) admittedly a lot of the stuff we learnt at college I have never used lol. my brother is doing some work in his house and has done his own electrics with my guidance before and he still doesn't get the wire colours don't always do the same thing. He gets paranoid as his lighting is done loop in at the light and does not believe me when I tell him to connect the blue switch wire to the live of the light. Thinks I am winding him up when I talk of strappers at the switch. His usual comment is " I heard the words but f*ck knows what you said" Steve |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 12:53:14 GMT 1
Two way switching got me when I was a young un and unless you know that the blue isn't a neutral it's a switch live then a non electrician won't get his head round it. I point blank refuse to use the loop in neutral method
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 12:53:25 GMT 1
Two way switching got me when I was a young un and unless you know that the blue isn't a neutral it's a switch live then a non electrician won't get his head round it. I point blank refuse to use the loop in neutral method
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 8, 2013 11:20:47 GMT 1
Those pics posted by Daily Burner look like something out of a frankestein movie!
I'm currently trying to de-rust the inside of a tank using the nuts and bolts and shake and vac method!
I will let you know how I get on.
So far looks ok, but my arms tire after 10 mins of rotating the tank.
I then intend using a liquid rust agent and a liner.
I've seen Por-15, Kreem and Flowliner all advertised.
Any thoughts which is best?
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Post by Denzil on Oct 9, 2013 9:25:37 GMT 1
Por 15 fella from FROST products. It's a 3 system process. Very good I think. Be carefull though as it will stick like shite to a blanket if you get it on the paint work.
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