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Post by copper99 on Sept 17, 2013 17:43:45 GMT 1
Mine has the dreaded groove in it, so i need to replace it.
Does the clutch & its basket need to come off to do this job?...
T.I.A
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Post by marsbar350 on Sept 17, 2013 18:00:52 GMT 1
had a look at an engine on me bench tried to remove the selector shaft with no joy  maybe someone else has another way looks like taking the basket off  |
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Post by rich on Sept 17, 2013 18:56:23 GMT 1
Yes you do have to remove the basket.
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Post by steeley on Sept 17, 2013 19:06:46 GMT 1
yes you need to take the clutch basket off.
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Post by muttsnuts on Sept 17, 2013 19:49:32 GMT 1
yes clutch basket off, also, once you have the shaft removed, if you don't want to replace it becuase of the cost, then clean the shaft up where the groove has appeared and use some brake cleaner to make sure its nice and clean and free from oil, then use some JB weld or any other artificial metal compound, mix some up and fill the groove up, make sure its proud of the shaft all the way round.
leave to set and then sand it down gently until the "over proud" stuff has disappeared, you should be left with the groove filled up, then just replace the shaft, good to go again, done a few like this now and thus far (touch wood), I've not had anyone come back saying its leaking again.
Alternatively shell out for a new shaft, Norbo does them
HTH
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Post by copper99 on Sept 17, 2013 21:32:55 GMT 1
Nice tip muttsnuts..pisser, im not quite skilled enough or have the tools to do that job, Jess, you listening bud.?..lol
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Post by jon on Sept 17, 2013 21:45:46 GMT 1
I've thought about this before. It seems a shame to throw away shafts because of a weak point where they wear.
My next YPVS project is to use FZR forks. I had to shorten the yoke stem, and so after pressing it out I built up with weld the turned back to 30mm. Turned out really well.
Thought at the time I'd try this on a gear shaft. The welded area would probably be harder and more resistant to oil seal wear than original.
If you want to PM me and arrange postage both ways recorded I will try it for you for free.
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Post by steve h on Sept 17, 2013 22:03:09 GMT 1
Maybe a Mapp torch and braze the groove?
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Post by jessy03 on Sept 17, 2013 22:06:54 GMT 1
Nice tip muttsnuts..pisser, im not quite skilled enough or have the tools to do that job, Jess, you listening bud.?..lol No worries I'll bring the hammer round Jess |
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Post by Roofmonster on Sept 17, 2013 22:06:56 GMT 1
I used one of these shaft repair kits on a shaft of a Mercruiser water pump as the water pump drive shaft is actually the camshaft. It was easy to fit and really effective. I would think you could fit one on the gear change shaft to repair the groove without having to remove it. Its not the "proper" way to fix the problem and you should really replace the shaft but it would be a quick fix if you didn't want to remove the clutch. Has anyone tried it? www.barnwell.co.uk/shaftrepairkits.html |
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Post by stanlc7189 on Sept 18, 2013 0:38:53 GMT 1
I've got the same problem I think. I haven't checked to see a groove, but the seal is weeping ( oil under l/h casing) and the shaft has slight to and fro play plus the splines are worn too. I think Norbo does a special bush but the hole needs reaming out on an LC as the part is for a 31 k. Can anyone confirm this and has anyone done this mod to their LC?
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Post by steeley on Sept 18, 2013 5:03:37 GMT 1
not done this mod on my lc ,as in ream the hole out for the bush that norbo sells.wish I did now I replaced the shaft and seal and its still leaking .bugger.
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Post by copper99 on Sept 18, 2013 8:37:43 GMT 1
Nice tip muttsnuts..pisser, im not quite skilled enough or have the tools to do that job, Jess, you listening bud.?..lol No worries I'll bring the hammer round Jess You left here on Sunday mate...along with the chipped chisels... |
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matt7
Thrash Merchant
Smell of the 2 stroke & the roar of the crowd
Posts: 445
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Post by matt7 on Sept 18, 2013 9:10:51 GMT 1
My local bearing/seal supplier have an oil seal that is 1mm narrower in width than the oe part, it seals on a fresh part of the shaft. They have a minimum order of £10 + vat , I had to order 3 seals to make up the £10 ! I've used 2 on rebuilds, perfect fix  If I can find in the garage today, I'll post the dimensions. |
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Post by muttsnuts on Sept 18, 2013 10:32:20 GMT 1
better still, post up the seal number, that way people will be able to source them locally....... |
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Post by jollyjoiner on Sept 18, 2013 11:46:48 GMT 1
I got a new selector shaft and bush from Norbo, top job, Mind you I was doing a complete engine rebuild  |
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Post by copper99 on Sept 18, 2013 17:23:19 GMT 1
I got a new selector shaft and bush from Norbo, top job, Mind you I was doing a complete engine rebuild I think you hit the nail on the head there mate, its something, which had I or the engine builder knew was a known issue, it would havw been done at the time of build, like a lot of things(ie Arrows pump rebuild service) you find out after the event and if you have had the good fortune to join a site such as this. Now, the dhap who welded up my casings today told me he can supply a seal that will cure my woes on this front as well, ill let you all know on that. |
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Post by jollyjoiner on Sept 18, 2013 19:45:32 GMT 1
Make sure you rap some tape around the splines on the end of the shaft before putting the seal over it, it will help prevent the splines from damaging the new seal.
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Post by copper99 on Sept 18, 2013 19:55:03 GMT 1
Thanks for that mate.
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matt7
Thrash Merchant
Smell of the 2 stroke & the roar of the crowd
Posts: 445
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Post by matt7 on Sept 19, 2013 13:08:33 GMT 1
mine came from Brammer bearings , they're packaging part # is NBR12X22X5A (12 id, 20 od, 5mm deep) Good luck |
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Post by muttsnuts on Sept 19, 2013 18:57:24 GMT 1
cheers, got a Brammer fairly local, so sorted.....
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Post by copper99 on Sept 20, 2013 11:30:10 GMT 1
mine came from Brammer bearings , they're packaging part # is NBR12X22X5A (12 id, 20 od, 5mm deep) Good luck Im at a Brammer branch now mate, they tell me the code above relates to a 22mm od but you have it down as 20mm in your description, which is it, please...! |
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Post by copper99 on Sept 20, 2013 11:47:10 GMT 1
mine came from Brammer bearings , they're packaging part # is NBR12X22X5A (12 id, 20 od, 5mm deep) Good luck Im at a Brammer branch now mate, they tell me the code above relates to a 22mm od but you have it down as 20mm in your description, which is it, please...! Matt, the OE seal is 12x22x5, from the specs you state above, the Brammer seal isnt 1mm narrower in depth, the OD is 22mm on both.. |
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Post by stanlc7189 on Sept 23, 2013 0:12:22 GMT 1
Does the bush mod that Norbo sells require the hole to be reamed out? If so, does that require the engine to be stripped so that the swarf from reaming out doesn't get inside the crankcase?
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Post by steeley on Sept 23, 2013 6:51:19 GMT 1
on the lc engine to fit the bush norbo sells the hole needs reaming out to size.i would have put some tissue paper in the hole from the gear change side.then when the job was done push the wad of paper out from the clutch side.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 23, 2013 16:14:19 GMT 1
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Post by johnlc on Sept 23, 2013 18:20:41 GMT 1
Did stan stephens not make a bush that was fitted over the shaft into seal recess
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matt7
Thrash Merchant
Smell of the 2 stroke & the roar of the crowd
Posts: 445
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Post by matt7 on Sept 25, 2013 10:41:17 GMT 1
Sorry, been away for the week - typo by me = 22mm.
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